NZ Terrano Owner

You should be able to easily get 33"x12.5x15 with a 3" body lift. Just watch that the tire doesn't rub on the chassis when on full lock. With a backspace of around 4" you should be OK Cheers Al

to test my ball joints, etc, I get large monkey grips, or a vice grip and squeeze the ball joint. If there is any movement, then the joint is Kaput...

Just given the old Terrano a birthday now that it has just clocked 200k Kilometres. The engine got the big service, with new injectors, fuel pump reset, good clean out of manifolds, emmission control disabled, intake manifold gasket, waterpump, harmonic balancer and front crank seal replaced, timing reset. On the chassis, running gear side, I replaced all the rear suspension bushes with nolathane ( had to get the local garage to press out the originals ), new tierod ends, Calmini lift kit and new 33" mud tyres to finish off the package. looking and going real great now. The bank account took a hammering, but figured I would've spend about the same if I had traded the old girl in and got another second hand vehicle. At least I know this vehicles history, and that it is pretty sound. I anguished over the lift kit for quite awhile, but decided to go with the Calmini 3" kit. The main reason was that they have an agent here in NZ, so he got to deal with all the red tape with customs, money transfer, etc. I was pleasantly suprised when it arrived. All the bits were there, and I had no problems fitting the UCA's or torsion bars. Even the original UCA bushes came out with hardly a whimper. The only small prob was with the panhard rod drop bracket, I had to drill out the top holes as they didn't quite line up with the ones on the chassis. Now all I have to do is get out and get it as dirty as hell. Cheers Al

Hi all, Haven't had much time for 4wding lately, house reno's and work, yaedeeya. Anyway, could someone supply a link to the L&P website, as the one I have goes to some club website?? Cheers Al PS: L&P here in NZ is an iconic softdrink manufacturer. http://www.paeroa.org.nz/LemonandPaeroa.html

Hi all, got the note about the change, see you all on the new forum cheers Al

Hi Datsunman, I use a Ryco filter on my Terrano. Part no is Z416. Hope this helps. Cheers sAl.

Thanks for the replies. I have sourced a new CV, and will pick it up this week and give it a go on the weekend. Cheers Al

Hi all, went out for a bit of a play over new year at a legendary track here on the west coast of the south island, NZ. Had a ball, unfortunately my outer CV joint didn't have such a good day and went ping on me at some stage. It was still driving, but was making a nasty noise.Didn't notice until halfway back out. Not good!! My question is: How difficult is it to replace the CV, and is it possible to do yourself, or is it a job for the experts? Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Al

Yeah, those are the bushes for the compression rod, (Strut rod). I put some Urethane ones in mine and they made a huge difference. Posted photos some time ago. Make sure that you measure the diameter of the rod before you order though, as there are two sizes. Cheers Al

I've had a look under both the passenger and driver's seats in my '95 TD27 Pathy and can't find anything that looks like an ECU. Are they mounted elsewhere on this model? Up under the dash on the side of the heater unit is a "black box" about 4" square by about 1/2 " thick with two connectors on it. Could that be it?

That transfer case lever boot seems to be a built-in fault with the Pathy's. Mine was totally destroyed when I bought mine. I couldn't find one anywhere in NZ from a wrecker. They all said the same thing, "oh they all do that". Ended up getting the local upholsterer to make me one out of leather. It works fine and only cost me a slab of beer.

I found a removable, oblong shaped cover just beside the brake master cylinder on mine ('95 RHdrive) that is over a good sized hole right through the firewall. I used that to run the wires for the Auto lockup bypass that Dieselboy posted in Garage awhile back. Cheers Al

That surprises me, as I'm sure I have bought metric fine bolts from Hyton Parker before. Do you not have a Blacks Fasteners where you are at? If not try phoning the ChCh one as that is where I got mine from. Just had a thought. You might have a job getting metric fine over a certain length? My lift was only 50mm, so from memory the bolts were around the 150mm. Al

OMG. !! What was he thinking when he started that. Over here in NZ if you mod your vehicle you have to take it to a government certifier to get it checked out before you can drive it on the road. Even bigger tyres or a small body lift. Would love to see the certifiers face when that rolls up He He. Al

Thats a great price for the other bolts ($36). Hope the fine thread ones come through for you. Try a Motorcycle shop if they don't, as Jap bikes are all metric fine. How much lift are you putting on? Cheers Al

The bolts you need for that middle mount, and most other M10 and M12's, on the Pathy are a Metric Fine. From memory the pitch on the standard metric thread at M10 is 1.25mm and at M12 is 1.5mm. The metric fine is 1mm. Just saw that you are in NZ as well. Try Blacks Fasteners, Hyton Parker, or Ullrichs. I got mine from Blacks in ChCh, no probs. The high tensile are hellishly expensive though. The 10 bolts I bought were like $120. Al.

HI Mako, To question 2; check the oil company websites, eg Shell as they carry oil quantities for most models. To question 3; haven't heard of any probs, mine has done 150k without a worry. To question 4; on top of the fuel pump should be a button, which is a hand primer. After you install the new filter, pump it like a schoolboy until it goes stiff and you can't pump it anymore - and the button as well To question 6; go with a manual hub and get out and click them BEFORE you get to the mud. Hey Terrano, we have Terranos in New Zealand as well, like you most of the ones here are 2nd hand imports from Japan. After about '96 they dropped the Terrano name and went to just Pathfinder. Cheers Al.

I just did the outer CV boot on mine on the weekend. I had done the inner ones last month, and when I was installing the right hand axle I caught the outer boot and put a tiny hole in it. Had hoped it would last, but it started throwing out grease last time I was in 4wd collecting firewood. I don't mind getting firewood when you get to play in the mud at the same time. Anyhow, as I had already done the inner ones getting the axle out was no prob (follow instructions in Garage - installing CV axles) I used a flexible CV boot (Duraboot, all though there are others eg, Mecatech) so I didn't have to dissassemble any of the joints. They supply you with a cone and you slide the boot over the cone onto the joint. It was a bit of a bitch getting the last bit of the boot over the cone, but got there in the end. Would reccommend you go down that road as dissassembly of the joints can be a PITA. Cheers Al. Give me a PM if you want more info on the removal etc.

If you want to avoid doing an alignment after replacing the tierod end(s) try this. Centre punch two marks, one on each side of the adjuster that joins the two ends . Measure between the two marks, measurement A. remember this number. Take off the end that needs replacing. The locknut can be really tight! Measure from the end of the rod and the centre punch mark. On your new tierod end punch a new mark in exactly the same place. Reassemble the new end onto the existing one until the measurement between the two marks is the same as measurement A. Retighten the lock nuts. Hey presto, your new tierod is the same length as the old one. - Alignment will be as before. Hopefully it was already OK.

Yeah a little at a time is definitely the way to go. Have financed my mods that way. A mate of mine had the ultimate scheme. He got a new job and told his missus that he was paid fortnightly, but was actually getting paid weekly. Stashed the extra weeks wages. Devious bastard.

Hi Mako, good to see another NZer. I am also in the sth island, just out from ChCh. I have a TD27 as well, but an auto, and have had a great run out of it so far. 50000K's in nearly 2 yrs. No major probs, just heaps of oil changes, etc. If yours is a jap import, check the fuel filter as it may not have been changed before. Mine had heaps of crud and water in. Cheers Al.

Nice new red Nolathanes installed. No more nasty clunks

Worn Compression Collars

On a recent club run I noticed that there was a clunking sound coming from underneath the truck. It sounded like it was under my foot. I originally suspected that the engine or transmission mounts were loose. Back in the shed, I climbed underneath with a range of spanners, but all the bolts for the engine and transmission were tight as. I noticed however that the Bushes for the Front Radius Arm looked worn, so I undid them and got quite a shock! They were Knackered!!. The compression collar was worn through in the middle where it had been wearing on the chassis mount and the rubbers were all hard and broken - Ugly, see photos. Installed some nolathene bushes, and no more clunks when I go over bumps now. Well worth checking yours out next time you have the front end up. Just takes a few minutes to undo the 2 bolts, and the big nut at the end, to slide off the bushes and have a look. Make sure you measure the Radius Arm diameter, and the length of the compression collar before you order the replacement, as there are two sizes ( for the '95 anyway). I didn't, and you guessed it, I got the wrong one the first time. Bugger! Cheers Al

Just had a look under my truck and no sign of the sensor on the exhaust. I have a '95, 2.7Turbo Diesel. Are these sensors just on the petrol engines? Are they for your emission regulations? Cheers Al