RainGoat Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 I used an OEM top hat, not the pictured aftermarket one. I don’t think the aftermarket spacer needs to be welded - you just need to be sure to use it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloer Posted February 23, 2021 Author Share Posted February 23, 2021 On 2/14/2021 at 11:20 PM, RainGoat said: I used an OEM top hat, not the pictured aftermarket one. I don’t think the aftermarket spacer needs to be welded - you just need to be sure to use it. I have a 96 SE. I used the KYB top hat. I didn't use the spacer, it wasn't possible to use it and get the strut nut on. I tried. My mechanic friend tried. I was determined to use it based on what I read on other posts and feedback to this one. I checked, double and triple checked, even took the strut off and disassembled/reassembled after running without the spacer for awhile to be sure. I had the struts replaced earlier at a reputable shop, they also used the same KYBs that I put on. They also didn't have the spacer in. Maybe the KYBs come without the spacer welded in because in some cases they aren't needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RainGoat Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 Maybe the KYBs come without the spacer welded in because in some cases they aren't needed? It’s addressed in better mechanical detail in other threads but [mention=41986]Zakzackzachary[/mention] documents his failure due to leaving it out in his thread (Post#90). The struts alone have several instances of documented incorrect installation by garages in NPORA - in reviewing the above thread, I note he had trouble with some local shops as well. I’ve been passing along@XPLORx4 strut alignment pic for years now as that’s another common error. I would double check any shop’s work, especially for such a safety essential component. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 I have a 96 SE. I used the KYB top hat. I didn't use the spacer, it wasn't possible to use it and get the strut nut on. I tried. My mechanic friend tried. I was determined to use it based on what I read on other posts and feedback to this one. I checked, double and triple checked, even took the strut off and disassembled/reassembled after running without the spacer for awhile to be sure. I had the struts replaced earlier at a reputable shop, they also used the same KYBs that I put on. They also didn't have the spacer in. Maybe the KYBs come without the spacer welded in because in some cases they aren't needed? You might want to get back in there and include that spacer. Sent from my Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloer Posted February 24, 2021 Author Share Posted February 24, 2021 Damn, if both @RainGoat and @R50JR say it is so, it's definitely got to be done. I'm still not sure how they work, but you two are trustworthy sources so will not doubt that it has to be done. Searching for @zakzackzachary's post to see wtf is going to happen to me, not having much luck so far. If anyone can post a link that would be appreciated, in the meantime will continue to search. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RainGoat Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 Just go to his build thread - it’s highlighted on post#90 - though there is some foreshadowing earlier in the thread. In fact, he had to try a few shops before he got one that could do it correctly - and it turned out they didn’t either. I’d recommend anybody take the strut alignment picture from [mention=1343]XPLORx4[/mention] with them to the shop as that error has been documented several times in this forum. In this small world, [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] was at my place when [mention=41986]zakzackzachary[/mention] got hold of us. I’ve since actually visited the exact spot of the failure on the WABDR. Do as you see fit, just trying to help & keep everybody safe. One of the best aspects of this forum is everyone’s candid descriptions of their struggles, triumphs & failures. No reason to make the same mistakes twice. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloer Posted February 24, 2021 Author Share Posted February 24, 2021 4 minutes ago, RainGoat said: Just go to his build thread - it’s highlighted on post#90 - though there is some foreshadowing earlier in the thread. In fact, he had to try a few shops before he got one that could do it correctly - and it turned out they didn’t either. I’d recommend anybody take the strut alignment picture from [mention=1343]XPLORx4[/mention] with them to the shop as that error has been documented several times in this forum. In this small world, [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] was at my place when [mention=41986]zakzackzachary[/mention] got hold of us. I’ve since actually visited the exact spot of the failure on the WABDR. Do as you see fit, just trying to help & keep everybody safe. One of the best aspects of this forum is everyone’s candid descriptions of their struggles, triumphs & failures. No reason to make the same mistakes twice. Thanks, really, I truly appreciate you guys speaking up. Really easy to scroll on by and not care to take the time to help. THANK YOU!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloer Posted February 26, 2021 Author Share Posted February 26, 2021 The struts are coming off for disassembly Saturday. Going to get the spacer in there. If I can't figure out what's going on, I'll be posting with pics asking for advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloer Posted February 27, 2021 Author Share Posted February 27, 2021 (edited) Struts are off and disassembled. I still cannot see how these spacers possibly go on these struts. You can see in the pictures, that with the spacer, even without the top hat, the nut doesn't even get fully threaded. This is the third time I've tried to find a way that these spacers can work. How can these possibly go on? The struts are KYB 335015/16 from RockAuto. EDIT: Chatted with @R50JR and come to the conclusion the spacers are not needed on these struts. I have no idea why they are included in the packaging. Edited February 27, 2021 by gloer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AR97Pathfinder Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 But the OEM strut mount has one. Thats odd Did you put it back together without it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloer Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 6 hours ago, AR97Pathfinder said: But the OEM strut mount has one. Thats odd Did you put it back together without it? Correct, the spacer was not used. It is not possible to get the nut on when the top hat is included. No idea why the spacer is included. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AR97Pathfinder Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Correct, the spacer was not used. It is not possible to get the nut on when the top hat is included. No idea why the spacer is included. Is everything riding fine? Just curious as I’m going to be doing this job soon on my truck. And will be using the KYB top hats. I saw another members strut failed from not using it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloer Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 32 minutes ago, AR97Pathfinder said: Is everything riding fine? Just curious as I’m going to be doing this job soon on my truck. And will be using the KYB top hats. I saw another members strut failed from not using it? It has been riding great for well over 1.5 months and rode great tonight, I had to go off-roading immediately after reassembly. It looks like the KYB struts are (now?) machined differently and no longer require the spacer. Here's a pic that was sent to me showing the old style. Note the difference in length of the machined section after the chamfer, and the length of the threaded section. I can understand why on these ones if you didn't include the spacer you'd be in a world of trouble. On the KYB struts I bought recently, the machined section is about equal to the old chamfered section plus spacer. Let me know if you have any questions. I've now disassembled and reassembled these four times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 That is actually the new style. The struts you have are the old style. Yours technically have more travel than new ones. Sent from my Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloer Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 8 hours ago, R50JR said: That is actually the new style. The struts you have are the old style. Yours technically have more travel than new ones. That's pretty wild, now I know why you were surprised I was able to get that style. @AR97Pathfinder when you get your struts just do a small test like mine in the pictures above, it will be very clear if the spacer will fit or not. If it does fit definitely use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloer Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 @AR97Pathfinder one of the reasons I've disassembled and reassembled a few times is that I didn't have the rubber seat replacements (55034-0W000) on hand the first time. The originals were pretty ineffective. I also ordered new coil spring insulators (55034-0W005) after seeing the condition of the originals. As I posted earlier in this thread, the coil spring insulators are stupid expensive for what they are ($36 OEM). But reading about what they do, seems like they help reduce noise of some kind and decided I'd get them. While searching for VW parts I found and bought these for half the price. They went on fine, but the larger size from Tein would probably have been better. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I6JN5ZO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AR97Pathfinder Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 [mention=43266]AR97Pathfinder[/mention] one of the reasons I've disassembled and reassembled a few times is that I didn't have the rubber seat replacements (55034-0W000) on hand the first time. The originals were pretty ineffective. I also ordered new coil spring insulators (55034-0W005) after seeing the condition of the originals. As I posted earlier in this thread, the coil spring insulators are stupid expensive for what they are ($36 OEM). But reading about what they do, seems like they help reduce noise of some kind and decided I'd get them. While searching for VW parts I found and bought these for half the price. They went on fine, but the larger size from Tein would probably have been better. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I6JN5ZO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00 Yeah I’m getting new OEM rubber seats also. I did check out the insulators as well and after seeing the price for them I decided I might just reuse the old ones. But now that you said you’ve used these instead and they are doing the job fine, I think I might just get them also. Thanks for sharing that info. Much appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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