Tn95rbn Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 All my bushings and shocks need to be replaced. Unfortunately can't do it all at one time.So which would help the most doing a couple at a time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 Start with the worst ones and strategize so you're not taking the same stuff apart twice. Stuff like the strut rods, sway bar bushings, and shocks can be gotten to pretty easily. If the front control arm bushings need doing, you're pulling a lot of stuff apart at once, so you might as do as much as you can while it's in pieces. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 (edited) one word. allignment. start with all parts involved with your allignment at the same time. get it alligned and then work on the other stuff. if your tires are good . if your tires are in bad shape then you can do the alignment last. but changing all of your bad parts with good parts can make your allignment worse until you get it done. the parts that can effect your alignment are upper and lower control arm bushings centerlink, inner and outer tie rods, adjusters and idler arm upper and lower ball joints inner and outer wheel bearings. I just went through all of this. edit: btw shocks while they may not affect the alignment can ruin new tires if they are bad. best replace them before new tires, if your tires are good right now you can replace the shocks without needing re-alignment Almost forgot, Torsion bars will also effect your alignment, especially if one of them starts to weaken and cause one side to sag. Edited March 24, 2019 by msavides 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tn95rbn Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 Thanks for the input y'all. Amazingly even with rotten bushings the alignment isn't as bad as you'd think.A gradual drift to the right but nothing you really have to fight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 (edited) the 1994 I just rebuilt the front end on, was not that bad either, however the upper control arm busshings were completely trashed, the wheel bearings were loose and the center link had quite a bit of play. The tires were about done. I thought maybe that the light pull was just tires, I took it in for an alignment before the new tires. that is when they told me about the bearings and the UCA bushings. I figured since I was into it I would do it all. It was not that bad since most of the items were on clearance at rock auto. sometimes a vehicle will steer fine, all the while are wearing out your tires unevenly. a quick check of your tire wear pattern will tell you that though rotting bushings can make your car go quickly out of alignment at any time though. Edited March 26, 2019 by msavides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tn95rbn Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 Its amazing the effect new sway bar bushings had.The steering felt super loose...two simple bushings and it stiffened the wheel up significantly. Still have to do the ends but it's a great start. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tn95rbn Posted March 29, 2019 Author Share Posted March 29, 2019 Replaced driver side strut rod bushings.. No rust but breaking them loose was rough.about to finish other one..hopefully it'll go a little faster. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tn95rbn Posted March 31, 2019 Author Share Posted March 31, 2019 Strut rod bushings installed on both sides. About to go check that they haven't loosened since install.No torque wrench..but tight as f@#k seems about right. Things hadn't moved since they spoke Japanese. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tn95rbn Posted April 15, 2019 Author Share Posted April 15, 2019 Endlink bushings up front helped the steering even more.A 99 r50 had great OE fog lights mounted.The bracket were there as well but didn't seem like they'd fit around the Wd21 bumper insert so just took the light housings and fabbed up some brackets.Not sure if I want them wired independently of the other lights or splice them into the low beam wiring.. @ 2x 55w they put out a descent amount of light on there own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted April 15, 2019 Share Posted April 15, 2019 Don't splice them straight into the low beam wiring, the headlight wires are tiny and the contacts in the switch are a weak point as-is. Factory fogs were wired with a relay, triggered by the low beam circuit, with a switch interrupting that--so the fogs only come on if the low beams and the switch are both on. I had a couple 55W Hellas on mine for a while. Nice and bright, driving lights rather than fogs though. I angled them out a bit to light up the hoof rats lurking in the shadows. Figures I hit one in broad daylight and broke one of the lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tn95rbn Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 Appreciate the input.Think I'm going to hook up a relay and switch with a 15a inline fuse.The factory light wiring is ridiculously thin,not sure how it's lasted this long.maybe one day I'll go through and upgrade it all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 It is amazing how thin the stock wiring is. A lot of us end up relaying the headlights as well, both to improve light output and to reduce stress on the contacts in the switch. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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