Mythstae Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Yes, that's right! Another amplifier bypass thread! But mine... is different. Kinda. Before we start: I have a 1995 Pathfinder; SE. I have the "8-speaker" system: 2 tweeters in the A-Pillars, 2 speakers in the doors, 2 speakers in the rear roof, and 2 tweeters in the rear roof. This guide was written for mine. If you have different equipment, this guide very probably will not help you. Does some of the wiring have the same application on other models? Maybe, but I don't own any others, so I have no idea. So, I drew inspiration from: The Factory Service Manual Slartibartfast's guide: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35837-how-to-bypass-the-factory-amps-step-by-step/ adamzan's guide (which was itself sourced from elsewhere): http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/24612-how-to-bypass-factory-amps-in-your-clarion-equipped-nissan/ Some information on tweeters from NICO club: forums.nicoclub.com/factory-tweeter-mod-t443885.html And here's what I ended up with. First, is the way I did it, the "only" way to do it? No, absolutely not. Secondly, is it the "best" way? No! I'm sure it isn't! Well, then... why did I do it this way? Because I wanted to retain the use of my tweeters (like Slartibartfast did) but not cut the original factory wiring (like adamzan). Therefore, a hybrid solution was in order. For reference, the factory diagram may be useful to some of you. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4536/27106255909_cd9b180cb5_o.gif It wasn't terribly useful to me; I'm confused by Nissan diagrams. Moving along. Here are the diagrams that I made. They tell you wire colors, wire functions, and which wire to hook to which other wire. You'd be able to use this as a guide if you want to just cut and solder the original wires, instead of taking apart the amps to get the plug. And if that's the way you want to do this, go right ahead! There is more to this guide, but the diagrams are the most important part. I will update this later with reference photos, etc, when my internet stops being so uncooperative. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mythstae Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 First thing to do is to carefully remove the plug from your amplifier's circuit board. Next, take the plug off of a harness from something else, to get some wires with terminal ends. What did the plug come from? I dunno. I chopped it off a car in a junkyard. Straighten your pins, probably trim them shorter. They are longer than you need. After you put the donor wires onto your pins, it looks something like this. Get to soldering! It is easier to solder these on than you'd think. They may be open on top and bottom, but the solder likes to cling to the sides, so you just kind of fill in the box... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mythstae Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 Also, not knowing how the grounding might work, I avoided touching the metal cage with the ends of the terminals. Add your shrink tube... (Can you tell my favorite color is purple?) Pair your wires, according to the diagram, and solder them together. Shrink tube those, too. If you don't want to keep your tweeters, you can do both harnesses this way, and you'll be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mythstae Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 (edited) These are the capacitors I bought. Don't. They're polarized, and every other guide I read says to use non-polarized capacitors in this application. But, wait. More reading says you can connect them in series (attach the negatives) and they become non-polarized. Cool! But, wait. When you connect capacitors in series, they are worth half the value. But, wait. When you connect capacitors in parallel, they're worth double. So if I... connect 2 caps in series... and do that again... and then connect those, in parallel... I effectively have, "one cap", for the original value of a single cap, and now it's non-polarized? Well, I sure hope it works that way, because that's the thing I did! Reinstalling the harness plug in the amp case is not required. It's what I did; you don't have to. Edited January 24, 2018 by Mythstae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mythstae Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 In fact, the funny part about reinstalling the bypass harness in the original amp case, is that, once you put the cases back where they normally go... you can't hardly tell anything has been done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 Interesting. I hadn't thought about polarity when I did the caps on mine. Makes sense, though! How's it sound? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mythstae Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 Shockingly decent, considering I'm still using the OEM speakers... Which have dissolved at the edges! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 Nice work! I replaced my speakers on my 95 with a set of Pioneers, forget the exact model but they required NO modification to fit. Which if you do a bit of digging, is near impossible to find in the proper 5x7 size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mythstae Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 I've bought speakers already, just haven't installed. May need to modify to fit; Crutchfield says they won't. We'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 Mine took a little router work on the plastic spacers. Not too bad, just annoying. I remember when I blew the foams out of the stock Clarions in my '95. I'd just started driving and I was sure that flapping sound meant something important was about to fall off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mythstae Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 Did you buy ovals, or rounds, though? Because I bought rounds. Like, yes, I know that the factory speakers are oval; I knew before I bought the replacements. I wanted round ones, knowing I'd probably need to mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 Yeah, I went with ovals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mythstae Posted March 26, 2018 Author Share Posted March 26, 2018 6.5" round speakers will fit in the doors, under the factory grills. Here's the thread for that: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/44060-65-round-speakers-1995-se/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcquevedo Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 Hey All, I Have a 95 Nissan Pathfinder SE and My Radio In My Pathfinder only plays sometimes when its really hot in my car, you'll be able to hear the song with no bass. When its cold in my car no sound comes out the speakers at all. Is it my amp thats bad? I have after market Stereo deck and front door speakers and rear ceiling speakers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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