Charlie_Brown Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 Before I blew my motor i had planned to lift the truck a modest 1 to 2 inches just for some clearance, well I just got done installing a 2 in BL and 3 in SL with HD Tbars. I still have the UCAs for the 1.5-2in lift and was curious if they still might work. My thought is they would work better than stock but the bjs would still suffer since they wouldn't be exactly correct however I've heard others running 2 inches of lift without changing the stock UCAs so maybe I'm wrong? The UCAs are from RC. Hoping someone more savvy than I can help guide me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCWD21 Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 I have the super lift uppers and they're currently sitting on the bumpstops which are half the height of stock and the balljoints are still at a comfortable angle. I'd still run the new upper control arms just to help the ball joints. Any thing closer to the stock angle the better imo. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_Brown Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 My stock arms are sitting about the same as yours so that is good to know. I'm definitely leaning towards getting proper UCAs regardless of the fact it's another 200$. Would rather do it right and not have to buy new ball joints as soon as I hit dirt. Searching on forums I've seen people say AC control arms do nothing for the ball joints (one individual said it makes it worse!) While superlift and RC are the same but have not heard much on how well they correct angles. Calimini I've heard good things but Jesus who wants to spend 400$ for UCAs!?! I don't even care you get new ball joints will it, not worth it plus dealing with the hassle of making it for on the truck. But I'm rambling, question is just how each of them perform to correct bj angles (3in suspension). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 AC ones suck for ball joint angles. The Superlift/RC ones are the best. I had the AC ones and had to buy the Superlift ones because the truck was eating ball joints every 6 months. Use the superlift ones, SAS the truck, or leave it stock. Those are the 3 options IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCWD21 Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 AC ones suck for ball joint angles. The Superlift/RC ones are the best. I had the AC ones and had to buy the Superlift ones because the truck was eating ball joints every 6 months. Use the superlift ones, SAS the truck, or leave it stock. Those are the 3 options IMO. Can't really get any simpler than that. The geometry of our rigs IFS limits us quite a bit. I'm sure there's a way to really improve it but by that point it would be easier to SAS it on either coils or leafs. All in all though I've found the stock suspension setup to be more than capable of handling everything I've thrown at it. The weak link is the dog bone steering set up. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_Brown Posted August 16, 2017 Author Share Posted August 16, 2017 AC ones suck for ball joint angles. The Superlift/RC ones are the best. I had the AC ones and had to buy the Superlift ones because the truck was eating ball joints every 6 months. Use the superlift ones, SAS the truck, or leave it stock. Those are the 3 options IMO. Thank you! I was leaning towards superlift over calimini for sure anyways. As for SAS, I don't know how to weld unfortunately otherwise I would be tempted to take on that project and paying someone to do it is far more $$$ than I like to spend. For now SAW is a dream for future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_Brown Posted August 16, 2017 Author Share Posted August 16, 2017 . All in all though I've found the stock suspension setup to be more than capable of handling everything I've thrown at it. The weak link is the dog bone steering set up. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk I've been considering modifying the steering setup with the calimini idler brace (only one ice found still in production) and doing the 2wd conversion. Should be more than strong to handle anything I ever throw at it and be able to run 33s full time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 Honestly when my truck was stock height I never had any steering issues. It was only when I lifted it and changed the angle of the tie rods that it started wearing the drag link and idler very fast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCWD21 Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) I've been considering modifying the steering setup with the calimini idler brace (only one ice found still in production) and doing the 2wd conversion. Should be more than strong to handle anything I ever throw at it and be able to run 33s full time.Get a different brace. Calmini has hit or miss fitment issues. All the posts I've read report some sort of issue with their braces, especially with aftermarket idler arms. http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981130-pathfinder-idler-arm-brace.html Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Edited August 16, 2017 by RCWD21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_Brown Posted August 16, 2017 Author Share Posted August 16, 2017 Get a different brace. Calmini has hit or miss fitment issues. All the posts I've read report some sort of issue with their braces, especially with aftermarket idler arms. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Do you know of any others, other than having one made (not against that option as it would be cheaper anyways) Yeah I just got done doing a 3in SL so I'm trying to address steering issues now rather than later and ruin new ball joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCWD21 Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 I edited my post with a link to one Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_Brown Posted August 17, 2017 Author Share Posted August 17, 2017 Sweet thanks! Much better than paying calimini and not knowing when you'll even get it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 The are pretty easy to make... having said that I did not make mine, but mine was made by a member here who is no longer active and it's been on the truck for years with no problems. The one on AC is not expensive, can't speak for the construction though. Calmini arms correct angles just like SL/RC once do, but lots of people have complained about bushing failures with them in the past... and yeah, the cost, there is that. As Adam said, go SL/RC an call it good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_Brown Posted August 17, 2017 Author Share Posted August 17, 2017 The are pretty easy to make... If only I knew how to weld Yeah I am going with superlift, just wanted to make sure they were not like AC and do nothing for the ball joints since I had not been able to find anything like that about them before deciding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 (edited) From Parts far Sale section: Never been installed, bought before I blew up my engine and ended up lifting the truck higher so these no longer suit my needs.Rough country upper control arms with all hardware needed and bushings all still in its shipping plastic lol.200$ new, asking 100$ unless your feeling generous and want to offer more lol I also have front and rear rough country n2o shocks I could throw in for more money if you want. The rear shocks have been installed on my truck but never driven, just sat as a parking lot queen.Figure 120$ for all 4 shocks added so 40$ off new. *the arms themselves do not provide lift, they simply correct BL angles when you do lift (by cranking T-bars) *Rough Country UCA's = Superlift UCA's with a different finish (Superlift manufactures them) From this thread: Before I blew my motor i had planned to lift the truck a modest 1 to 2 inches just for some clearance, well I just got done installing a 2 in BL and 3 in SL with HD Tbars.I still have the UCAs for the 1.5-2in lift and was curious if they still might work. My thought is they would work better than stock but the bjs would still suffer since they wouldn't be exactly correct however I've heard others running 2 inches of lift without changing the stock UCAs so maybe I'm wrong? The UCAs are from RC. Hoping someone more savvy than I can help guide me. Thank you! I was leaning towards superlift over calimini for sure anyways.As for SAS, I don't know how to weld unfortunately otherwise I would be tempted to take on that project and paying someone to do it is far more $$$ than I like to spend. For now SAW is a dream for future. So let me see if I have this straight. Between this thread and the one you have in Parts for Sale... you currently have and are selling Rough Country arms and plan to buy Superlift arms to replace them? If that is right... Why? RC & SL UCA's are the same thing with the exception of the finish. Edited August 19, 2017 by RedPath88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_Brown Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 Read the description of the add. The UCAs are for 1.5-2inch lift. Trust me I know UCAs don't add lift. Read my original question on this thread. I wanted to know if anyone had used UCAs for 2inch lift MAX on a 3 inch lifted truck or would the bjs still 've at a bad angle. Decided I'm not wanting to buy more bjs just because I'm cheap and would rather do it correctly. Yes I know RC are superlift, again I had already stated that in this very thread. Describing the brand was for the selling purposes so others know what they are getting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 (edited) I did read both and the following posts in the thread... but the arms are listed as 1.5-2in because that is a safe range for them to market them as to minimize wear on BJ and the fact that they sell them as a kit for Hardbody's that includes either Add-a-Leaf's or blocks (don't recall which, but iirc it's blocks) for the HB's rear leaf springs. The range limit of lift on the front is due to the design restriction of the IFS and operation angle range of the CV's, not the arms. Don't matter if you go with stock, AC, SL, RC or Cal UCA's, the actual limit is the same. What I am asking here, and really for your benefit (or the benefit of your wallet perhaps), is why you are selling the RC arms only to turn around and buy SL arms of the exact same design? Just trying to make sure that you know that the end result will not change in regard to function. And also, that changing the arms are not going to provide you with any "additional" lift range above and beyond what you already have after cranking the torsion bars. But what they will do is correct the BJ angles, which is something that the stock arms do not do with a T-Bar lift. Edited August 19, 2017 by RedPath88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_Brown Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 (edited) Alright so check it out, I bought my current arms wanting to lift the truck 2 inches. I ended up lifting my truck already 3 inches by t bars. Now I have control arms that are designed for a 2 inch lift MAX to correct balljoint angles so they do not wear as quickly as you know. Putting that on a 3 inch lifted truck I was curious if the ball joints would be fine since its just an inch and I have heard of other lifting 1-2 inches without any problems but in the end decided I would rather help my ball joints as much as possible and get the correct control arms that are designed for a 3 inch suspension lift. I understand you are trying to help and help me understand but what you are not getting is I'm not trying to go higher with control arms, I'm trying to save my balljoints and use the correct hardware for my now taller than I had originally planned. Edited August 19, 2017 by Charlie_Brown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Okay, so what arms are you going to buy for a 3" MAX lift? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_Brown Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 Superlift that are designed for a 3 inch lift since automotive customs as described on here do not correct balljoint angles and are pointless to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 See that is my whole point, you already HAVE those arms. RC and SL arms, structurally are EXACTLY the same. The ONLY difference is the final coating on them. SL zinc coats the arms they sell under their own brand name, while the ones sold under RC are powder coated. Having personally talked with a SL rep in the past (when they had a run of bad arms - documented here in the forums) they are made is the same fixtures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_Brown Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 I was under the impression that the plating is at a different angle as to support higher lift with the 3in lift super lift vs the 1.5-2 in rough country. Or am I wrong about this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 It's not, unless they have changed them, which I doubt. As far as I can see SL does not even seem to list them on their site anymore. RC still does and I see that the kit includes shackles for the rear of the HB, not an add-a-leaf or block. Either way, they are the same. The RC arms at not advertised and sold separately under normal conditions, instead they are sold in a kit for the HB only (NOT marketed for Pathfinders) and that kit gives a 1.5-2in lift, thus they reason they are listed as 1.5-2in. Again this is a "safe" range for them to market to limit blowback from people going higher and destroying ball joints. The typical effective "MAX" of our IFS's systems is actually 2.5, and even at that some have had BJ issues, whiles others have had little to know problems going further. Several members have back them down some after eating BJ and/or just to smooth the daily ride some. A little history, when we first discovered the RC arms as an option, you could only get them by calling RC directly and ordering "UCA's for a Hardbody" if you mentioned that you planned on installing them on a Pathfinder, some people found that they would not sell them to you. That is how I ordered mine, but over time I believe they eased up on that some. We have an UCA thread here where much of this info is contained (including the manufacturing flaw that was discovered) where we even tell members looking to buy to say HB and not PF when calling them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_Brown Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 That is good to know and very helpful. Thank you Red Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Here's the thread, or at least one of them, from when RC's was first discovered as an option. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/4844-ucas-upper-control-arms/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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