1badqx4 Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Hello everyone, my 99.5 qx4 has been randomly dying when I come to a stop or switch gears drom driver/reverse etc. anyone have any idea what this could be? I just put 2k into a ton of repairs into it and it seems to never end with this car. please help. no codes/ check light, just driving to a stop light she will just die start right up and die at random.wth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgallant Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Just a question to start - runs fine under load but dies at idle - basically Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 What all have you tried? Pull codes from the transmission? Not familiar with obd2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enjoi408 Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 I am experiencing this issue as well. I took it to an arrogant mechanic and he said to clean out the throttle body. It did help but happens every once in a while. Things I notice, it happens mostly when coming to a stop after a couple of seconds. More noticeable when in cold weather or start of my drive. But after driving around and the trucks warmed up, no issues what so ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Do you guys have any codes to report ? no check engine light ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1badqx4 Posted November 3, 2016 Author Share Posted November 3, 2016 No check light. yes it is coming to red light slowing down or when finally stopped at the light. it does it when it is cold.but yesterday when I was backing into my parking space at work it would keep dying everytime I shifted from d to r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 Just a guess here but maybe a transmission issue? stalls more when cold and mostly when coming to a stop or switching between D and R makes me think torque converter. Like its not allowing the engine to run from drag due to low fluid or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 Quick google search for those symptoms says most likely Throttle position sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pceby Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 My 97 does the same thing sometimes when shifting into reverse. It will sometimes judder the car really bad and the car has died a few times from it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beatup96 Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 When my '96 had similar symptoms it was found to have a crack in the MAF sensor housing . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1badqx4 Posted November 5, 2016 Author Share Posted November 5, 2016 I have a new MAF unit on the way $89.97 from my Infiniti dealer. itl be here on Wednesday. going to install new one. clean IAC and TPS while I am at it. new bumper installed required removal of air intake box removal. so I got find a snorkel that will fit so I don't suck and water up. extremely exposed. thank You Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enjoi408 Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 I had a mechanic diagnose mine. He claims it's the IAC. I bought the part off rockauto.com for $89 and he's going to install it. Hes charging $150 for labor (1.5hrs of work). We will see if this is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 Yeah I was going to suggest that the issue may be one (or more) of: IACV (idle air control valve) MAF sensor vacuum leak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enjoi408 Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 Just checking back in. Installed the IAC. Relearned the idle through obt2. Truck was idling really low immediately after. But after a couple days, the truck was running properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 Just checking back in. Installed the IAC. Relearned the idle through obt2. Truck was idling really low immediately after. But after a couple days, the truck was running properly.So the IAC was the culprit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enjoi408 Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Not quite sure. I am experiencing a misfire/ idling issue. Idle seems a jumping from 600-700 at stops. And each time we test for the coil pack, it seems to working properly. When the cars on at a stop, it won't work properly.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleFR Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 What happens if you come to a stop with the E-Brake and shift with the E-brake and not the foot brake pulling vacuum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enjoi408 Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Still misfires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChemExposure Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 My 2001 3.5SE Pathfinder has the same issue, occasionally when I come to a stop it'll stall the engine, lights go dim and then it turns off. I've noticed it does not idle consistently either, sometimes dropping down to around 1000rpm. The scanner showed that the knock sensor needs replacing, so I will try that.I'm getting an issue with the transmission having a delayed shifting between gears, specifically between first and second. It seems to only happen on startup. If I rev it extra hard when going down my street the issue doesn't really occur, so I'm thinking my issue is more to do with the solenoids so I'll be looking into changing those. Ideally I'm hoping the knock sensor fixes the issue, but I'd honestly like to do a rebuild anyways since I'll be towing a trailer for a couple weeks in the summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enjoi408 Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Misfire seems to be constant now. Not as noticeable when moving since I still have 5 working cylinders. But now my truck won't stay alive during stops. The idle seems to jump 600-700 and then after a few seconds will die. Restart the truck and it will start with my foot on the gas and then will immediately drop to zero and die again. I now need to hold the gas to keep it going. Another diagnostics, they think it's the fuel pressure damper. This might be sending different fuel pressures to different chambers and might explain why I'm running rich and smelling fuel from the engine bay. I will be replacing this today but I have a feeling this is not my main issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enjoi408 Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 (edited) Ended up replacing the fuel pressure damper and my truck is working like a charm! Idling issues have all gone, acceleration has returned, no more engine rumble. $68 part from O Rielly's but was a specialty part so it had to be ordered and wasn't in store. Easy replacement. Since there is zero information on fuel pressure dampers on the internet, I'll give some from my findings. Description: Fuel Pressure Damper(NOT the same as fuel pressure regulator) - regulates fuel pressure in the fuel rail so that each injector spits out the right amount of fuel in each cylinder evenly. Located on inlet of fuel rail (outside the intake manifold, thank god). Symptoms of bad Fuel Pressure Damper: Smelling fuel from the engine or in cab. Misfire in random cylinders. Hard start (lots of kicks, no start). 1. Pull tube rubber tube off top nipple. 2. Unbolt 2x 10mm bolts holding the damper. 3. Loosen and unscrew tube ended (14mm and 17mm) 4. Take new damper and bolt on the 2x 10mm bolts on damper side. 5. Reconnect tube on top of damper. 6. Tighten tube end with 14mm and 17mm nuts. 7. Turn key to on position to engage fuel pump. 8. Start truck. Check damper for leakage. I will check back in a couple of days to see if my truck doesn't start acting up. Edited December 1, 2016 by Enjoi408 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1badqx4 Posted December 2, 2016 Author Share Posted December 2, 2016 Do you have a part number? or picture of the damper? I cant seem to find one for my 1999.5 qx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enjoi408 Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 Mine looks like this. But you have a different year and different engine. I tried looking it up under rockauto.com for your year and couldn't find a section for it. I do have a guy who can diagnose your dying issue if youre still looking. Let me know if you would like his info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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