Oil Pump Leak

[Skydude92]

I have a 95 Nissan Pathfinder 4wd with an oil leak. We thought it was coming from the front main but once we got in there it seems to be coming from the oil pump assembly. My question is can I change the gasket to that without pulling the oil pan or at least get it out enough to put some sealant? Thanks

[Slartibartfast]

Mine looked like it was coming from the pump too--turned out to be the front crank seal instead, with the spinning crank throwing it all over the underside of the oil pump. I was very happy to find this because the oil pump looks like a royal pain to remove.

[Skydude92]

How were you able to determine that was what was happening?

[Slartibartfast]

I replaced the crank seal and the leaking stopped.

 

I was convinced it was the pump, but I was told it was more likely the crank seal. I decided to try the easier fix first. I did notice when I got down to the crank seal that there was a lot of oil between the seal and the washer up against it, which only made sense if the crank seal was doing the leaking. Oil was leaking through the seal and the washer was flinging it all over the oil pump. Again, though, I couldn't see this while the belt and everything was still on.

[adamzan]

It is almost unheard of for the oil pump to leak on these. I would ensure all the bolts are torqued down, replaced the front main seal and go from there. Mine had the same problem. The whole bottom of the timing belt cover was soaked, as was the oil pan and crossmember below..

[Skydude92]

There was no oil on the belt or really much between the seal and washer. The oil was on inside of tensioner pulley and directly above the top of the oil pump where it seemed to collect in the little crevice there. From there it was running down and dripping out the bottom of the timing cover. I did replace the front main and put everything back together because by my understanding you have to drop oil pan to get the oil pump out and I wasn't doing that.I didn't give it a whirl until I had everything but the fan shroud on. That was a mistake. My grandad was "helping" me and he put the bottom bolt in timing cover. I don't know if he put the wrong bolt in or completely missed the threads or what the hell happened but where the bolt is supposed to thread ended up broken and inside the pulley and making a terrible sound, I thought we jumped time. Took everything back apart and found out what happened. Then my dad wanted to look behind the tensioner, so we took that off and belt back off and the cams moved so now it is out of time. I have to figure out how to fix that tomorrow. Still didn't fix the oil leak, can't put all the bolts in timing cover, and its out of time. Big old waste of time.

[SpecialWarr]

15 degrees BTDC; line up the marks on the two cams and the crank on cylinder #1 TDC compression stroke with the rotor pointing to the 11 o'clock position looking towards the back of the engine( remove the plug to get it to TDC and the tooth count should be 41 (43?)between the cam marks (as a reference)... I can't help your oil leak though!

 

Everyone please correct anything I just said before ye get started though!

[Skydude92]

all that confuses me about that is do I need to leave the timing belt on and get it on compression stroke or do i need to turn the crank independent of the cams and get it on tdc then move the cams to their marks

[adamzan]

It is 40 teeth between the cams and 43 between the drivers cam and the crank marks.

[SpecialWarr]

Leave the timing belt on and get it on compression stroke for cylinder number 1, loosen, but don't remove, the spark plug once your crank marks are getting close to TDC. _Then_ check that the cam timing marks are correct AND count the number of teeth between them.

 

Thanks Adamzan!