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Clutch replacement help


Jmoor85
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Got that dang broken stud out. Found a squared extractor. I drilled the hole a little deeper and tapped that square extractor in there.

Good job, I'm glad you got it out. I have some of the square style as well and generally prefer them for small bolts, but I figured that if the spiral type didn't work, they wouldn't either... Did you have to re-tap the hole? I have a few tricks for that as well.

 

B

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Threads were thankfully not actually hit. I ran a tap in them all to make sure it would go smoothly. So now I just need to replace the pilot bushing and then start installing. Have a soccer game tomorrow and Halloween stuff but maybe I'll get a couple hours on it this weekend.

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I can not get this damn pilot bushing out. I have rented two tools specifically for pilot pushing a but they are all too big. I am trying the grease method and it did move a very very tiny bit but it has been an hour and nothing. Anyone have any better ideas?

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Grab a bag of managers special bread, pack it in the hole, either use the clutch alignment tool with the handle popped out and a mallet.

 

Or a socket roughly the same diameter as the inner bushing diameter. Same concept as the grease, more viscous though.

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I'm about ready to try that. I saw a YouTube video about three weeks ago showing the bread method.

 

I'll give this grease a little more time and then I'll have to take one of my wife bagels. We don't eat much bread so it's rare we have any. I told her earlier today one of her bagels might get donated. She said I'm redic.

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Got the exhaust manifold and new gasket installed. Flywheel and clutch are on. Now just need to stab the transmission in there and he rest should be pretty straight forward.

 

I torqued the flywheel bolts to 80ft lbs. in the manual it shows 72-80 but the. On the bottom of the chart is shows

MT 115ft lbs or something. But that doesn't seem right.

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I see the 72-80 ft/lbs, but not the 115 ft/lbs. I'd think 80 is fine, and I'm pretty sure that is the number I went with as well; I didn't have a torque wrench that when over 100 ft/lbs back when I replaced mine...

 

Well after trying the bagel method for about 12 seconds it work. Popped the bushing right out. IMHO DITCH THE GREASE METHOD

Well, I'll be damned... I learned something today and it made me laugh! :D

Care to elaborate on your specific method?

 

B

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It's just like the grease method. I bought a bolt that was the same ID as the bushing. Nice tight fit. Torn off small pieces of the bagel and stuck them in the center of the hole. Put the large bolt in the hole hole and gave it a couple good smacks. Added a couple more small pieces and with just a few more smacks the bushing came right out. Way less messy and I had some bagel left over to eat. The hole cleaned right up too. Seriously I thought this was a joke when I first saw it on YouTube. It really is the best thing I think.

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Umm, B... you might have to fix yourself ^ 4x lol

I was also amused by the bread/bagel. I have always used a piece of round stock machined to a very close tolerance to the Pilot. (.001-.003 clearance) and thick grease.
But I guess it comes down to using whats available to you and making the best of it and you did!

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Does anyone have a good picture that shows the wiring connections for the transfer case? All my marks wore of with the degreaser I used and I did not take any pics

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Sorry, not I, but what exactly are you asking? Which plug goes where? Nothing in the FSM about that?

 

Umm, B... you might have to fix yourself ^ 4x lol

Yeah, I just saw that crap and said WTH?!? Not sure how that happened, no crapatalk here... :shrug:

 

GUESS WHOS TRANSMISSION IS BACK IN!!!!!!

Woooooooo!! (mating call of the feral Redneck) :D

 

B

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Yeah. The harness that goes to the four plugs on transfer case. The FSM does have wiring but nothing I see looks like the harness I am working with. They have four plugs coming off the harness instead of two.

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Those are fine the way they are. as long as you don't have 2 wires from the chassis harness going to one switch it will work the way its supposed to.
I just turns on the dummy light for 4x4. One wire to each switch and one wire connecting the two.

Edited by MY1PATH
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Those are fine the way they are. as long as you don't have 2 wires from the chassis harness going to one switch it will work the way its supposed to.

I just turns on the dummy light for 4x4. One wire to each switch and one wire connecting the two.

Right. I'll figure out one way or another.

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All I have left to do is instal new slave and bleed system, install exhaust y pipe, fill transmission and install shifters.

 

Hopefully everything works as planned.

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I'm sure it will.

MY1PATH has to be right about the connectors, there is no brain or control for the manual gear box and transfer case, so it can only be a matter of the right light coming on at the right time.

Sorry, but I have no manual system to look at for reference...

 

B

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Yeah. I'm not too worried about the harness. If someone had a pic that would have been helpful but if not I'll just move them around until I figure out the right combo. I'm sure the switches connect with one another and then to harness. It's pretty basic but I never claim to be an expert of anything.

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Good job man, you made it. BTW, what brand did you go with. I am partial to Exedy (OEM) brand clutches.
I'm running an R50 clutch & pressure plate in my WD it has more clamping force and is a little bit more grabby. The pedal feel is a little firmer too due to the higher clamping force...

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