Jmoor85 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 So the rear main is not leaking a drop. I almost hate to disturb it. At first I thought it might be leaking due to all the grime in bell housing and the little shield behind flywheel. But I'm thinking it is just from oil getting slung off the starter as I do not see it anywhere near the rear seal. What are your thoughts? If it's not broke don't fix it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Here's where some oil collected. Probably dripped down from oil filter when it was changed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Change it anyway. And it looks a little wet to me. Oil will not get in there from oil changes. Also, the curved part of the oil pan gasket could be leaking too. Its easy to change as it doesn't require dropping the pan. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 So the rear main is not leaking a drop. I almost hate to disturb it. At first I thought it might be leaking due to all the grime in bell housing and the little shield behind flywheel. But I'm thinking it is just from oil getting slung off the starter as I do not see it anywhere near the rear seal. What are your thoughts? If it's not broke don't fix it? How many hours did it take to get to this point? How many hours until you are able to drive it again? How much grunting, cussing and knuckle busting was involved in the whole job? If the RMS started leaking a week after you got it all back together how would your feel about doing all the above AGAIN? For reference, my RMS had 15k on it when I was in there and I STILL CHANGED IT. Estimated RMS life expectancy is up to 200k and I STILL CHANGED IT. Here's where some oil collected. Probably dripped down from oil filter when it was changed out. See that sleeve around the input shaft? At the base of the sleeve there is a weep hole so that any leaking gear oil goes straight down into the bell instead of dripping all over your clutch. Its a safety feature that lets you have a leak without ruining your drive home. FYI if you do need to change that seal it goes in from behind, once all the bolts are out DO NOT USE THE SLEEVE FOR LEVERAGE OR HAMMERING it will break off. There is a tab on the bottom left and bottom right of the casting that you can use for leverage. This one really sucks if the factory paper gasket needs removal/cleaning (re-install with a wet RTV gasket makes easier next time) If its not leaking I would still do it if it has more than 50k on it. See above for reasoning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Also something to be said about Nissan Seals...When I built my new engine the rebuild kit came with all OE branded gaskets but some other brand seals.Both cam seals started puking after 7k (your supposed to change them every 100k, so they failed at 7% of its change interval)I got some OE seals (Timken or SKF if you shop locally) and now I can r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Yeah. I'm going to replace the rear seal. How does the oil pan get sealed there without having to come off? I see it on the exploded view but nothing about sealing it. I'll check the weep hole. Hopefully it's nothing just going to add more work to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Here is everything that is needed to come out. I only have 20 minutes here and there to work on it at a time. So the progress is slow go. I try looking over everything from my big Nissan manual I got before I tackle it. That way I get a good idea of what I'm doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Yeah. I'm going to replace the rear seal. How does the oil pan get sealed there without having to come off? I see it on the exploded view but nothing about sealing it. I'll check the weep hole. Hopefully it's nothing just going to add more work to it. The pan has to come off to get sealed. The book may referee removing the RMS housing to remove the RMS SEAL... THIS IS WRONG, removing and re-installing the housing almost always leads to a future pan leak. Leave the housing in place and use a seal puller. I did not learn this one from personal experience but rather from a friend who has built hundreds of Nissan engines. I took his advice rather than learning the hard way because oil pans are PITA on a 4x4... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Yes. It does show to remove entire housing to replace the rear seal. So I'll rent a seal puller from oreilly or something. So you are saying the oil pan has to come off as well? Adamzan mentioned it didn't. Again this is my first and only Nissan. I've had it a couple months now and just trying to get all the bugs worked out. That is definitely motor oil in the bell housing and not gear oil. So my guess is maybe the pan was leaking. What gear oil goes back into Trans and what does the transfer case get liked with? My blazer was an automatic and took the same in both. But this Trans is manual and obviously has gear oil in it but the transfer case leaks ATF? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 The TX10A transfer case is acceptable to use with Gear oil or ATF. Based on each fluids characteristics my opioion is to run them accordingly: ATF (DEX III) is cheaper and sold everywhere, but offers very little in the way of shock loading. Good for daily drivers and highway use while still being an offload vehicle. Gear oil (GL4) limited quantities and brands found in auto stores. (I prefer to order Redline MT90 online by the gallon for my transmissions). Greater film thickness and shock loading. Good for the dedicated wheeler or anyone who wants the added protection. possibly slight reduction in MPG due to thicker viscosity in Conventional GL4 oils, even less with SYN GL4 oils like MT90.The Housing peels right out once the bolts are removed but the semicircle seal under the housing has a tendency to leak after the housing has been re-installed and the best way to re-seal it is to pull the pan and do a full seal job with the housing in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Okay cool. That's a lot of good information. Right now there is two types. The red stuff in the transfer case and clear stuff in transmission. For right now I'll keep it that way until I have more time change the fluids for what I want. Right now I just want to get through this job. My blazer is majorly crapping out and won't last much longer. So I'll leave the RMS housing in place and drop the oil pan? Replace and resell oil pan? Then use a seal puller to pull out old RMS and install new one? Did I understand that correctly and in the correct order? I'm taking your word for it and it seems plausible for it to leak. I have gasket maker black RTV to use as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 (edited) Sorry, I think I missed that the oil pan was actually leaking.There are 2 styles of oil pan seals let me double check with my friend on which style yields the better result. There is a 1-piece that goes all the way around and there is a 4-piece that has 2 sides and 2 curves. Edited October 25, 2015 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 Oooook. So my buddy came over and I got him up to speed on the leak situation. So we husked the transmission outside and decreased it. Found that the rubbery boot for the shifter is the cause for the leak all over the linkage. Someone has been in there before. Zip ties all over the boots. So I guess I need to just seal the boot better when I reinstall it. Second all the oil in the belhousing was motor oil so I sprayed degreaser all over that and then checked out the RMS. It IS leaking as well as the back part of the oil pan. Someone has gone in there and smeared grey RTV everywhere. It didn't work. So it looks like I will be taking off the entire RMS housing to replace the seal and then also put a new real oil pan seal down and RTV the corners. I'll post the pics from today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 Got my throw out bearing cleaned up and pressed on. Belhousing all cleaned up. Nothing leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 So does this shield have a replaceable seal or do I install it just the way it is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 leave the dust shield alone, it will be fine as is. RTV is optional but it doesn't hold back any fluids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 My buddy got back to me. These are his words on the gasket: I only use the one piece version as it allows removing the pan without completely screwing up the pan rail. FIPG on the block and pan of course! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 Can the rear oil pan gasket slid in without loosening the pan bolts? I am not going to drop the front diff just yet. Hoping it can slide into place the way the old style rope seals do for the RMS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 You can with the RMS housing out and I hope it lasts for you. Make sure you get the old seal (or curved portion) out completely and clean/dry thoroughly before sealing a new curved arch in there with FIPG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 I was just getting ready to say that after an hour of thumbing through my Nissan manual I found a look at the RMS housing that looks like it fits into the oil pan seal. I would just need to make sure all residue was completely gone. Man, if it wasn't for the clutch I would have my new wheels and tires already. Oh well. Play time later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Good info from MY1PATH, and it sounds like you are on the right track. One thing you might want to do though is change that tranny fluid while it is out, or at least before you fully install it again. Reason being, you want to fill it with 5.1 liters of fluid, not the 3.whatever that is the norm from the factory; this addresses possible bearing starvation issues. Obviously, the fill plug position won't allow that, so the common method is to 'overfill' the tranny through the shifter hole. No point in putting it all back together, only to have to pull the shifter out again to properly fill the tranny when you change the oil. You can leave the transfer case for later, but that is easier done when it is out as well... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 Thanks for all the help guys. I have been so spoiled with my American cars I guess. Seems to be a lot on these nissans that need extra attention. But I think it is way better built than my blazer also. So B, Am I to overfill the transmission which intern will flow to areas which normally get starved? Then open the fill plug and let the excess pour out on it own? What fluid do you use? You are in California also so I am curious with our warmer weather what people run for fluids/ oil,gear oil, ect. I'm going to do the RMS and oil pan seal today if I can get out of work at a decent time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) No, you leave the "over fill" it in there. the original fill level did not fully submerge the 5th gear bearing among other things. The fill hole on the transmission was located 1" too low by mistake from the factory.I am partial to Redline MT90, and I usually get it directly from redline in gallon containers. They are really quick about shipping if you live on the west coast. It is formulated specifically for Nissan transmissions. I've run this fluid in sub zero temperatures in WA state and 115 weather here in SoCal and I change it every 5 years.If you are trying to save some coin look for STA-LUBE 75w90 or 80w90 GL-4 usually have it on the shelf. I think Its probably your best bet for a local option.Most brands stocked in other auto stores are only GL-5, stay away from GL-5 it is not compatible with the Nissan Synchronizers. Edited October 26, 2015 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 Oh wow. That's crazy. I had no idea they did that. Man. It's a good thing there are forums like this one to share that info. So I'll just fully drain it and add in the 5.1 liters. Probably go with the 80/90 right now. Tight budget. I only drive 2500-3000 miles a year avg to work and back. But if I am able to start using this thing for camping and fishing I will change it out for something better. I'm just sure more and more will pop on on me that needs attention. I noticed with the front tires int he air that they won't just spin freely. As soon as you let go it stops sounds like breaks are constantly rubbing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 MY1PATH is correct. You drain the old oil, leave the fill plug alone (it no longer has any role) and overfill it through the shifter hole, and leave it. IIRC, I put 4 quarts of 80w90 GL4 ONLY and one quart of Lucas oil stabilizer in my old 1995, and that seemed to work fine. I recall first gear was a little stiff on freezing mornings for the first mile, but a little wiggle and push would get it into gear every time, and no issues what so ever once it warmed up slightly. The recommended replacement interval is every 30k miles, so don't bother changing it before that or at least 5 years. The tranny will be fine, it is spec'd for that oil. The brakes probably just need a fluid flush and bleed, try that first. If it ain't broke... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now