MrEviLDeD Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 (edited) Hey everyone, Pardon the stupid question but what would be the best way to test this? The truck seems to roll properly. I will admit I haven't jacked up the back end and spun the wheels yet. The truck rolls fine, the emergency brake seems to operate correctly. What could they have meant at CT when they informed me that the rear drums are seized. I guess my next and only step would be to jack up the rear end (both tires off the ground) and spin them? Should they spin with any friction or just plain open spin? Any kick in the head here would be appreciated. Matthew Edited August 8, 2015 by MrEviLDeD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 could they have meant that the rear brake shoes were seized and were not engaging? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 So, apply the brakes when jacked up and spinning I replaced the brakes on the back when I initially started the repairs. I know for sure the emergency brake works so its pulling at least the lever properly. I will take a better look. Going to jack it up tomorrow and have a look just not sure what I am looking for except for. My expectation when I hear seized is that they do not work and are either stuck open or closed. Having the emergency brake work seems to change my understanding of, seized. I will pull the drums tomorrow, jack it up and have a look. Thanks for the clue, I will make sure to check to see if they engage when the normal foot brake is applied. Something I took for granted originally. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Maybe they mean the drums are stuck to the hub, which is fixed by a few smacks with a sledgehammer. Typical. Or there's a worn ridge on the edge of the drum not letting them slide off past the shoes, adjusting them back down will solve this. Also typical. Regardless, there needs to be a drag on them when adjusted up properly. You can usually tell if they are out of adjustment if the e-brake is high. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 Just about to head out and under the truck now. The e-brake does pull pretty high so this will be my first thing to look at. Next I will look for the ridge on the drum. Still not exactly sure how I would fix this problem though. I can re-adjust the emergency brake however not sure how to set the actual pads. Would/could this have something to do with a bad auto adjuster or just my lack of experience when I put everything back together and setting them properly? Do I have to adjust the wheel cylinder somehow? Do I just adjust the auto-adjuster? Hoping I do not need new drums. Again sorry for the silly questions. Never really had any experience with brakes outside of replacing disc shoes. As always any insight would be appreciated greatly. Matthew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 (edited) Well, jacked her up. Pulled the wheels. Neither side seemed to be seized at all. I had my son press the brake when the drums were off and the cylinders seem to be doing their job. On the driver side rear the adjustment wheel seemed to be extended about 1/4" where the passenger side seemed to not be extended at all. Could this be part of the problem? I adjusted both until there was some friction on the drum when I put it back on. All in all everything seemed to be as expected under the drum so not sure what else to look at. Both sides stopped the wheels moving when the emergency brake was pulled. Both wheels stopped when the brake pedal was pressed. They seem to function properly on the road as well. The pedal seems a little tighter than it was before I did the adjustments. All I did was extend each of the adjusters a couple clicks at a time until they seems to be about the same distance from the drum when I put them on. <shrug> Thanks for the information guys I appreciate it. Edited August 9, 2015 by MrEviLDeD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Yep, all that's needed is reach through the backing plate slot with a screw driver or brake spoon and adjust the shoes up as you spin the drums. Best to do with the wheel on. Freewheeling is out of adjustment, should spin a few times and stop. Not too tight, not too loose. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Sounds like they were pulling your chain, and you did the right things to make sure everything was good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Sounds like they know nothing about Pathfinders. Good call on checking it out yourself. I once stupidly took mine to just get an oil change when I discovered the oil filter was not even touched, probably because the guy didn't know how to get it out. Never again, I do all my servicing myself so I know it's done properly and if something goes wrong I can only blame myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted August 23, 2015 Author Share Posted August 23, 2015 (edited) After a few days of leveling out, the brakes seem to be working excellently in the rear. Even the emergency brake seems to have tightened up a bit and is within spec. Thanks for the information. Granted I did it the hard way and removed each wheel and inspected everything, I learned something important, look for the rubber stopper in the back of the brake housing and use the spoon All good now. Cheers! Edited August 23, 2015 by MrEviLDeD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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