Easy Power Window Motor Fix

[tmoore4512]

(This was completed on my 1995 WD21)

The problem:

Power window stops going up or down, or while up suddenly starts going down without the switch being activated. And when you try to "roll window up" you hear the motor but nothing happens.

What likely happened:
(Or in my case what DID happen)

Inside the power window motor gear box is a rubber piece that is molded like a "cog" which mates up with the large round plastic gear that makes contact with the worm gear that is attached to the motor drive shaft itself. The rubber "cog" is molded to a steel bushing that connects to the square "peg" that transfers the power of the motor to the regulator which in turn moves the window up or down depending on the polarity of the motor based on the demand by the end user.

The rubber "cog" breaks loose from the steel bushing and it no longer is able to turn the large plastic gear which stops all movement of the window. This may be because of age, deterioration, humidity etc.

The motor had low resistance and still operated very well, so I could not justify replacing the entire unit however I was unable to locate a replacement rubber gear to rebuild the gear box. Since money does not grow on trees, and I am more than capable (or just adventurous enough to try) to fix it myself...it is time to get creative...

The fix:
(Assuming you have already disassembled the door panel)

1. Remove the window from the regulator.
2. Disconnect power window motor wiring harness.
3. Remove the window regulator and motor from door.
4. Remove motor assembly from regulator and set regulator aside.
5. Remove metal cap from gearbox on motor. (Carefully pry it from the plastic housing)
6. Inspect the rubber cog, if destroyed remove. (Steel bushing will be left in gear box)
7. Disassemble the gear box. (Remove the regulator drive shaft from plastic gear and bushing, one end is square like a 3/8 drive ratchet. It pushes out with some force, remove steel bushing, then remove large round plastic gear)
8. Clean rubber debris from steel bushing. (I used a bench grinder with wire brush)
9. Find some steel pieces to fit in the cog to fill "the void." (I used a 16 penny nail)
10. Cut to size and weld it up.
11. Fit the steel bushing with the newly welded items into the plastic gear, then into the gear box. (May require some fine tuning to properly fit. I had to bend my nails a few times to get it proper)
12. Reassemble gear box completely, including metal cap. (Don't forget to lubricate the assembly! I used white lithium grease)
13. BEFORE you re install the motor to the regulator, test it by connecting it back to the power window harness and operating it as you would using the power window switch. (If no noise, and smooth operation then your good to go)
14. Attach motor to regulator and reinstall into door. (Good time to lubricate regulator too!)
15. Replace window back into the door and attach to the regulator.
16. Re-connect wiring harness.
17. Test the window.
18. Re-assemble the door.
19. Enjoy!


The problem (steel bushing is not shown in this picture)



Here is the modified steel bushing. (One of the nails had to be bent to fit properly)


The parts laid out (shaft already installed in gear box)

 

Back together minus the metal cap and grease.

[Slartibartfast]

Nice bodge! Hopefully the plastic's strong enough to put up with it.

[tmoore4512]

So far so good...have not been "taking it easy" on it either since there is currently no air in my truck...

[SkiBumBrian]

Nice! American ingenuity t it's finest!

[tmoore4512]

UPDATE:

Today while driving home, I rolled window down and upon arriving home went to roll it up...it would not come up, but I could hear the motor running just like before...

Disassembled the door panel and removed the window and regulator/motor and inspected...

Turns out that there is just enough play in the shaft that runs through the gear box to the window regulator...and it can back out of the modified steel bushing thus losing the ability to turn it...if that makes sense.

Essentially all I did to correct this was to push the shaft back in fully, and then tack weld the shaft to the steel bushing.

Problem solved. Problem staying solved.

(I did not get pictures this time but if you look at the last picture I posted you can see where the shaft comes through the steel bushing...tack the two together and grind em down slightly then re-assemble.)

Edited August 11, 2015 by tmoore4512

[adamzan]

This looks neat but I think for all the time spent I would have just bought another one.

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

[tmoore4512]

Yes, I could have...I guess I just enjoy fixing things haha.