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Ac 2" lift shock options


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Hey everyone I did my ac lift about 4 months ago and put all factory spec kyb gr2 on about 6 months before that. Well I have been running the ac lift with the stock length rear shocks. I have finally gotten the money together to do my rack light bar and rear shocks on. I searched for 2 hours only to find part numbers for shocks that are discontinued. I am curious if anyone has part numbers for kyb gas adjust or bilstein. Also I heard that stock f250 shocks will work but u thought that was for the ac lift and sfd but could be wrong. Your help is appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Mike

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I'll see if I can find the Bilstein p/n's later, though you might want to try their online catalog by series (vs. by application) and desired length. Since you're running lift, just look up the length of your current shocks and add some inches relative to your lift.

 

And I'd skip on the F250 option. I run Monroe Reflex cheapies for an F250 on mine, and the problem I had was that the bushings sizes (while correct for the R50 size-wise), are backwards, so you'd have to mount the shock upside down. Not a problem with monotubes, but a problem with monotubes that have an integrated steel boot...when mounted upside down, it's a cup collecting water. Not a problem with the rubber/poly boots. On mine, I had to press out the bushings to swap them. Wasn't worth the hassle.

 

Also, XPLORx4 has posted up some golden info about the Bilsteins valving. May want to search for that. I plan to upgrade to Bilsteins in the near future based on his advice.

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The right shock length for 2" of lift is about 16" compressed and 26" extended. The Bilstein 5125 shock that has the correct valving and length is part number 33-185552. I have Bilstein 5150's that match that specification, but Bilstein no longer makes the 5150.

 

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/bilstein_5125.cfm

 

Note that after you install longer shocks, your differential breather tube and rear brake line may need to be extended to avoid stretching them.

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Awesome this is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you guys! Gotta love npora. Now do you happen to know the number for the shock that has the extra reservoir? Or did they not make a new one to replace those? Also how do you like these bilseins? What differences would be noticeable between my stock length kyb and these longer bilsteins? I also plan to remove my rear sway bar but I'm leaving the front on. It is my daily driver but my drive to work is 4 miles. The nearest offloading is 30-45 minutes on the freeway. From what I have read just doing the rear sway bar should be fine for on road. Do you have any experience with that as well?

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For your rear brake line, I used one from a Frontier...but pretty much any Nissan truck or Xterra from 1986-04 will do!

 

Check out Centric p/n 15042354 at Rock Auto. It's about 4.75" longer than ours (Centric p/n 15042351). Hover over pics and dimensions, and you'll see the fittings are the same. I installed one several months ago when I added spacers. Paid $9.39 for it. Perfect fit.

 

By the same token, I also ordered front brake lines for an 08-13 Nissan Rogue (p/n's 15042116 and 15042115). They're a little longer too, but the inline crimp for mounting to the strut limits some of the additional length...a custom bracket would free up more inches, but they were good for another 2" or so as-is I believe ($13/ea). I swapped those in at the same time as the rear line. The fittings are a match, but the inline crimp that clips to the strut was a little different. Took a file to the strut bracket and was able to get the retaining clips on. There's a subtle difference between the parts: the shape that the crimped part "keys" into on the strut bracket, but I didn't have a way of knowing which was left or right (but I can tell you they fit either side of the truck.)

 

The 5125's are the shocks I'm planning on.

 

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If you really want the external reservoir Bilstein 5165's, click here:

http://www.eshocks.com/bil_ORsb.asp?Series_Index=7Q1&Manf=All&SubChar=Q

 

They are significantly more expensive ($173 each) than the 5125's and may be overkill for your R50. You will want 25-187717 (11.3" travel, 255/70 valving) if you choose to buy them.

 

The diff breather line is just longer piece of vacuum tube that you can get at any auto parts store. You'll just want to route it up to someplace where it's less likely to get water in it if you cross a deep stream.

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Awesome you guys have been a tremendous help.I will be doing all of these things very shortly. My pathy is nearing completion. I will let you guys know how it turns out. If you guys are happy with those bilsteins I'll probably end up just doing those. Any suggestions on mounting the roof rack very low? I took the rack cross bars off. I want to mount it directly to the side rails. Is that bad if I have the sun roof? And I saw someone made some sort of 3 bolt fitting that slid into the track. I'll have to try to find it again

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Well at least for now it works! Maybe it will sag a little by then and you can squeeze under it. I like the "spoiler" but idk if it is actually effective especially when I add the rola rack but oh well. I may have to remove mine as well when I hang the 6" light bars on the rear of the rack. I saw someone put them in their bumper where the reflectors go and I thought about that also but I think I'm going to make some bumpers so that idea is out

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  • 3 years later...
On 7/26/2015 at 6:24 PM, hawairish said:

I'll see if I can find the Bilstein p/n's later, though you might want to try their online catalog by series (vs. by application) and desired length. Since you're running lift, just look up the length of your current shocks and add some inches relative to your lift.

 

And I'd skip on the F250 option. I run Monroe Reflex cheapies for an F250 on mine, and the problem I had was that the bushings sizes (while correct for the R50 size-wise), are backwards, so you'd have to mount the shock upside down. Not a problem with monotubes, but a problem with monotubes that have an integrated steel boot...when mounted upside down, it's a cup collecting water. Not a problem with the rubber/poly boots. On mine, I had to press out the bushings to swap them. Wasn't worth the hassle.

 

Also, XPLORx4 has posted up some golden info about the Bilsteins valving. May want to search for that. I plan to upgrade to Bilsteins in the near future based on his advice.

I know this is super old....but could you just mount them inverted and drill some holes in the bottom boot to allow the water to drain? 

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14 hours ago, Sjackson2 said:

I know this is super old....but could you just mount them inverted and drill some holes in the bottom boot to allow the water to drain? 

 

You could, but you wouldn't want to.  Water drainage is one thing, but you'll also collect dirt and such.  Best bet is to avoid the shocks with metal covers if planning to invert, or plan on swapping the bushings.

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