Pre-installation check-up before getting an SFD

[hawairish]

Rather than clutter up CDN_S4's build thread with info that might be useful for others, I thought I'd regurgitate some knowledge that everyone considering an SFD should be aware of before going forward with it. In CDN_S4's case, he's dealing with some rust issues that make removing hardware difficult, but for every problem: a solution.

 

Before diving into things, you'll want to check out these areas so that you can better assess how to install an SFD. I hope to have thorough installation instructions in the near future, though there are some good existing write-ups (most useful so far: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31584-my-pathy-project-lifting/)

 

That said, let's go...

 

You'll need to remove/loosen bolts in these locations:
front subframe
rear subframe
steering link
steering rack
motor mount
CV/axle/front driveshaft

strut

 

Front subframe: The front subframe "bolts" are actually two bolt assemblies, and they can be replaced. They're 12mm x 1.25 x 150mm bolts affixed to a bracket. You can get new ones from Nissan (54418-0W00A; OE flange nut is 54588-0W00A, or OE equivalent is Dorman 433-512...Nis), or just replace them with (4) 1/2"-20 x 6" bolts and matching hardware. I tested this with 8" bolts when test-fitting the 1.5" spacers. Can't go wrong with thick SAE washers, but the OE bolt doesn't even have anything washer-like on the assembly. But, if you go with separate bolts, you may need a helper to keep a wrench on the bolt head...the OE assembly prevents the bolt from spinning. They can obviously be welded in, too.

 

Left: front EO subframe bolt assembly; Right: rear OE subframe bolt. Both shown in the orientation they are installed in the truck (fronts down, rears up)

 

 

These assemblies are located in the engine compartment on the unibody "rail" where it opens up for the engine. The passenger side is tougher to get to because of a rigid line that runs directly over it. The drivers side requires disconnecting the steering shaft. Both are held in by an 8mm bolt. In my case, the bolts were in good shape and were re-used, but the flange nuts should be replaced when removed.

 

Passenger side:

 

 

Drivers side:

 

 

Rear subframe: These bolts are 14mm x 1.5 x 45mm (p/n 54459-0W01A). It's only threaded to 35mm. If you can re-use the threaded holes, you'll need that bolt size. If these bolts are spinning, that will be a problem.

 

Steering link: You'll need to loosen the upper and lower bolts at the ends, and completely remove the middle bolt (otherwise it can't collapse enough to remove the link...ask me about the 15 mins it took to remove the link).

 

Steering Rack: You will need to rotate your steering rack. There are two 22mm bolts, and they're on tight. There's also a bracket that connects a rigid line to the crossmember, and another bracket on the reservoir hose that connects to the unibody. Both brackets will need to be disconnected.

 

Motor mount: each motor mount has two integrated 10mm x 1.25 studs and uses flange nuts (08918-3401A). The nuts will have to be removed without damaging the motor mount, and are really only accessible after pulling down the axle.

 

CV/axle/front driveshaft: You've got the 12 CV bolts (6 per side), then 8 larger bolts (4 per side, 54710DA in the diagram, 54726-0W005) that connect the axle housing to mounting brackets. I don't have measurements on these bolts, but I expect they are 10mm x 1.25 (CV) and 14mm x 1.5 (axle). The front driveshaft will need to be disconnected; Nissan recommends replacing the 4 bolts and nuts when removed (37120-0P00A bolt, 37171-7S00A nut; I recommend OE parts because part of the driveshaft flange prevents the bolts from spinning, just need a wrench on the nut)

 

Strut: Since the struts will likely need to be removed if you're adding spacers or springs, you'll need to remove the upper strut mount (strut tower) hardware from inside the engine bay, and the lower bolts connecting to the spindle. The strut mount bolts, I believe, are 10mm x 1.25, but I'm not sure (they're affixed to the mounting plate, 54322 in the diagram), but it's all somewhat irrelevant. If you're adding spacers, you'll need to modify the mounting plate to use longer bolts. Mine were replaced some time ago, and the holes have been enlarged to accept 12mm or 1/2" hardware

 

The lower strut bolts are 14mm. If you're not using offset strut spacers (like those included in the KrF kit), then you might need 1 or 2 sets of 14mm camber bolts (set = 2 bolts), easily found on eBay.

 

Edited June 12, 2018 by hawairish

[CDN_S4]

Awesome!! Thanks a bunch for taking the time to write this up!

[sleeper00]

Dude, I just found this. I'm voting you in as the "Father of modding the R50 Platform". Thank you again for investing the time into this.

[ferrariowner123]

Dangit hawairish, why do you gotta continue being awesome? I'm almost ready to commit to a bromance for all the awesome things you keep doing.

 

(I'll reply to your pm soon, keep getting distracted)

 

-Kyle

[hawairish]

LOL, just doing what I do (taking apart the truck endlessly)...