bolton454 Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Greetings all, My 1994 Pathfinder V6 XE has a drive train problem. While driving about 60 mph the drive train made a one-time pop sound, like the transfer case came out of gear, and then made a zipping sound which increased with rpm like a light gear grind. It is a an automatic with 280,000 plus miles on it. I shifted the transfer case in all selections but made no difference. I shifted the transmission in all gears but Pathy remains motionless and the zipping sound is unchanged and getting fainter. I have had issue with the transmission not going into 3rd from overdrive if I pass or de-select overdrive. However, it shifted normally otherwise. I will begin to tear it apart soon but I am wondering if you all think it is the transfer case or the transmission that failed. Thank you in advance. Kenny M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Welcome tO NPORA, and I'm sorry to hear about the problem! I'd guess it is the torque converter or tranny, the transfer case seems to be pretty reliable. If you have a copy of the FSM (downloadable from the pinned thread in the Garage section, AT-13 has a list of preliminary checks, self diagnoses and diagnostic proceedures. I'd start there and see what you get. It just might answer the question and/or be pertinent for when (if) you tear it down. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 The zipping noise is interesting... sounds like something broke/came disengaged and the zipping is the broken parts rubbing against each other. I agree with B on it probably being the tranny, the transfer cases are pretty solid. You might take a look at the external linkage for the case though, on the off chance that something came loose there. The service manual has a bit about how to read transmission codes with the "power mode" light on the dash (AT section). I don't know how much it would tell you, but it's worth a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolton454 Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Thank you both for your input. I plan to tow it home soon and I will diagnose with a manual in hand. I will keep you posted with my progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 I think you all wrong.... it is clearly a lightbulb that has burnt out ... On a more serious note: did the truck just begin to slow down at the instant the pop happened or after the zipping sound started? ( thinking something along the lines of a broken torque converter engagement spline ) I'm just throwing that out there though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolton454 Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Yes, SpecialWarr, it was as if it had gone into neutral when it "popped". (All the bulbs are good.....lol) I towed it home yesterday and checked the tranny fluid before I started the engine. It was 2 to 2-1/2 inches above "full" and after I started the engine, the fluid level was not on the dip stick at all; tested in 45 degree weather, cold start. There is no longer a zipping/ grinding sound with the engine running. However, there is a relay clicking near the glove box area every 12-15 seconds while the engine runs. We towed it 6 miles in neutral with engine running so I would have good brakes. That is all I have so far. Thank you for your input. Kenny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolton454 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 Well listeners, It took me many many hours but i got the transmission out. The clicking noise behind glove box related to the power windows; as if the window rolled up but the control continued to try to roll it closed. The torque converter is still on the flywheel. I had a Chilton's, I forgot the laptop with the "AT" file on it at my home, and it described a 4 cylinder tranny removal and it is different from the 6 cyl. (Learning curve and the Chilton's did not specify). Looks like I have to get the starter out to get the torque converter off. Will deal with that after I get another transmission. I don't think I have the skill level to rebuild this one especially since it may have zipped some gear(s). Have to say it is very much like the '71 El Camino I had.....not. Tranny drop is less than 4 hours for sure.....lol Kenny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Yeah, there have been a few changes in those past 45 years and 6k miles... Glad you got it out (almost), it'll be easier to put back together (other than the lifting part). When you source a new tranny, try to find one that is of the newer, redesigned type, 2000+ Pathfinders, Frontiers and Xterras with the VG33E IIRC. They are improved and plug and play as well... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 If the housing and stuff is still good... like, you didn't explode it, you can probably get a tranny shop to rebuild it for you for a couple grand. They will usually warrant the job and it'd be more reliable than trusting a junkyard tranny that you have no idea if the previous owner had driven 90% of the time in first or reverse. The guts typically run a few hundred dollars but the labor runs the price up. I've rebuilt one before and decided that I'd rather pay someone else to do it. Good luck. Don't forget to post what you find... as well as any pics of the problem. That can help others who come to the forums looking for advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolton454 Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 Hello again. I acquired a used transmission and am about to install it with the torque converter attached. Can you advise me on how to attach torque convert bolts to flywheel? The only way I got them out was by removing a triangle mount bracket on the driver side to access the bolts right by the oil pan. I had to rotate the shield plate out of the way to reach them and I am not sure if there is a better way. The starter hole does not seem reachable. Thank you in advance for your assistance. KM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now