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lock rite question


mudfinder
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Not a good idea. The rear end pushes the vehicle up hills and over obstacles, and the overall weight transfer is directed to the rear...which gives you better traction back there. The front end only pulls the vehicle along until it's out of travel and traction, then you're stuck just as if you had no locker in the first place. The only time you get weight transfer to the front end is going DOWNHILL...

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a problem i had with my 95 was when im climbing like a steep sandy hill..  the fronts would break traction and the rears would dig in..

that's why i am considering puting a locker on the front first...

this is my thinking too. I do most of my wheeling crawling over rocky obstacles or on slippery steep trails in the middle of the woods, so slow slow slow is the name of my approach.

I know a couple of local guys here (Maine USA) who lock just the front. but I have heard of problems steering on snow covered roads when in 4wd.

I think to lock the front diff you need to rep[lace the auto lock hubs with manuals.

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hey fellas, my lock right is in, i tried it going up this telephone pole that's laying around near my house and it work great, i used to spin tires, but now it climbs right up. can't wait tell i take it offroad. it took my buddy and me about 3 hours to do the entire install and it took us maybe 45 mins to put disassemble the gears and put them back together with the locker. we didn't have to take the whole ring gear off.

it's pretty cool when i punch it and make a turn, you can hear the tire churp. i left the sway bar off and when i made a left turn, my rear left tire got air, so i put that thing back on. other than, i'm locked yeee-haa. oh yeah, we didn't even use the instructions!!

 

 

even with the sway bar on, it sometimes feels like it's not on there, it wobbles like the rear end is loose.

Edited by mudfinder
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you don't have to do anything special, all you got to do is mark bolt you take out. you don't have to touch the ring gear or anything. i wish i would of taken pictures. from the time we took the gears out and put it back into the housing, i took us 45 mins. that's all. in the differentail oil we added oil stabilizer and you can barely hear the ratchy noises, you can hear it from the outside bu you got to really pay attention to it. so again, nothing special. i seriously didn't think it was possible for me to do, i saved $350. i did it. give it a shot. take your time. plan all day for it because you never nkow what might happen.

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a problem i had with my 95 was when im climbing like a steep sandy hill..  the fronts would break traction and the rears would dig in..

that's why i am considering puting a locker on the front first...

this is my thinking too. I do most of my wheeling crawling over rocky obstacles or on slippery steep trails in the middle of the woods, so slow slow slow is the name of my approach.

I know a couple of local guys here (Maine USA) who lock just the front. but I have heard of problems steering on snow covered roads when in 4wd.

I think to lock the front diff you need to rep[lace the auto lock hubs with manuals.

yeh, not really thrilled about it's automation... kind of would like to have more control... i hear of terrible consequences when that thing locks on the highway...

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Like what?

 

Look man, it does it's job. If you don't want it to work that way, either don't install one or don't drive your Pathfinder on the freeway and then complain about the way it works.

 

This is not a simple pair of new fog lights or new tires, it's a hardcore off-road mod that is meant only for helping you when off-road. You have to take the good with the bad, as interpreted by yourself.

 

Oilman: replacing your hubs does not lock the front diff. Hubs have nothing to do with the way the differential works.

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Oilman: replacing your hubs does not lock the front diff. Hubs have nothing to do with the way the differential works.

Yeah I know they are seperate items

I was just noting that if you upgrade to a front locker other than a fully selectable one i'd think you would want to switch to manual hubs for two reasons

1

they are ALOT beefier as you know. I wouldn't trust the auto hubs with the increased load of the locked front end

2

i'd want to be absolutely sure that my hubs were freewheeling when onroad with a locked front end

 

But i guess in a pinch right.....

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this locker works so dam great. there is this huge rock where i work and before i had to punch it to get up it and if i let go of the gas the truck would come back down. now it just creeps right up it no problem. today at school, i was messing around a construction site and i was very very impressed :bow: . as far as road manners, i can't notice it. greatest investment i've done. i'm just so happy now -bounce- . i'm locked in the rear!!! :D

Edited by mudfinder
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where do i find out what rear axle i have ?

the plate in the engine bay does not have h233 on it what other numbers could it be ?

 

 

quote from craig at genie4x4.com

 

You need an H233 rear diff requires open carrier not lsd, needs to be a

Banjo diff not Salsbury. I understand the H233 number can be found on your

identification plate under the bonnet. Same diff as in the front of an MQ

Patrol.

 

diesel for your info

quote from craig at genie4x4.com

We have been promised more tyre range around April this year, we have seen

the catalogue but will not list them on the website until they are available

to purchase.

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Lock Right locker by Powertrax for

$235.00US = $323.56nz cost of

$48.85us = $67.26nz shipping by stanard air mail

$2.35us = $3.24nz insurance

$286.20us = $394.05nz grand total

weight is 9lbs

could be added taxes somewhere along the line

 

i got this off their web site

 

are they any good?

Edited by jumper
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