Break Line Length & Diameter

[itsnotwebby]

Hello all,

I have been having a really hard time finding the specific length and diameter of the right rear break line from drum to 3-way housing. Local parts stores here are of no help, and as awesome as the FSM is, unfortunately there is nothing in there regarding these specifics. Every time I have an issue, I can usually find it on this here site, as someone has already asked, and another knowledgeable mate has answered. I apologize if I may have missed it, but I'm fairly certain that this hasn't been asked elsewhere as I've been digging for days.

The line has a pinhole leak right after the tight bend where it connects to the drum.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Josh

[ferrariowner123]

So your wanting the length and size you'll need? Well I don't know of hand, but I seriously doubt you are going to find a line that exactly the right length to fit without cutting it (apart from buying it OEM).

 

What I would do is (if you have a spare vehicle) take the line off, making sure to plug the hole for the distribution block, so the master doesn't run dry, take that to the auto parts store, where you can find a line that has the same diameter, and fittings you'll need.

 

Pick up a tubing bender, cutter, and flaring tool, and boom, make your new line.

 

Much easier said than done, but that's what I did when I had to replace the entire fuel, and rear brake lines on a friend's heavily corroded CR-V.

 

-Kyle

[adamzan]

Yeah, buy one of those pre made sections of line from the parts store. It's 3/16" with a double or inverted flare. And metric flare nut, I believe 10mm.

Edited November 23, 2014 by adamzan

[itsnotwebby]

Thanks a bunch guys. Last question, I assure you. What would you recommend to plug disto?

 

Amazingly fast responses!

[itsnotwebby]

Can't edit the previous post on mobile. But I think pulling it off and bringing it in to my local shop is gonna be the way to go. I tried jb weld to stop the leak but that didn't help. The rust on the fittings is my only set back. I'm hoping a little liquid wrench will loosen them up. I can't say it enough though, I do appreciate the quick responses.

[ferrariowner123]

Some pentitrating fluid like liquid wrench or pb blaster works, pb is my personal favorite.

 

But if you are going to work on brake parts. I HIGHLY recommend you get a boxed wrench, don't have to get a set, just the 10 or 12mm, can't remember either.

 

It greatly reduces the chances of rounding off the brake fitting. Since they have been there for a long time, and have corrosion, I can safely say that the only what your going to get that fitting off, is with a boxed wrench.

 

As for plugging the distribution block, I can't think of a way, I know when I'd have a bare fitting, say when replacing the soft lines. I'd stick a little piece of a closed vacuum line over the end of the tubing. Worked great, but not sure how that would work for a female fitting.

 

Maybe stick a piece of a rubber glove in there and zip tie it in place?

 

One more thing to note is to make sure you get DOT 3 brake fluid (or whatever the car says, it says DOT 3 for my 96, but it may have changed so check to be sure and buy what it says), and that you bleed in the order which the FSM dictates. Sounds like have a copy of that, so you should be able to find that no problem.

 

That's about it. Or at least what I can think of for right now.

 

-Kyle

[adamzan]

You can use a socket if you cut the brake line off right at the nut.

 

And as for the block, just put some vice grips on the flex line.

[hawairish]

Is the part not available from your local dealership? Appears to be a $7 part at courtesyparts.com, surely a few bucks more locally for a part that's certain to fit. I show the part as 46310-0W000 for a 96 4wd w/ABS...MSRP $8.55.

[01Pathmaker]

Dod some lines recently, all oem part numbers came up as no longer available. You are looking for 3/16" line with 10mm inverted flare. I don't recall what length I used for those, but a better option to crimping the rubber line (can damage older lines) is to use a string, starting at one end trace the string along the line, then mark or cut it when you get to the other end, lay it out flat and straight, measure it, go get a line closest to that length. I do remember that I did not cut/reflare those lines as the lengths available were close enough, just made some "lazy" bends to eat up some extra length. Also, to remove the old crusty fittings I typically just use vice grips as even the socket method rarely yields good results, you will want to use the correct size line wrench when putting things back together as open end wrenchs tend to not grab as well and can round even a new fitting. Also (VERY IMPORTANT!) make sure you can open all your rear bleeder screws, there are 3, one at each drum (wheel cylinder) and one on the load sensing valve (up above, follow the rubber line up beyond where it connects to the hard line). After replacing the line or lines, first open the one on the load valve and let it gravity bleed for a bit (keeping an eye on the master, don't let it run dry), once there's no more bubbles, then crack the ones on the drums and let them gravity bleed til no more bubbles come out, then follow normal bleeding procedures using the bleeders at the drums.

[hawairish]

No longer available, or not in stock? I'd be certain Nissan wouldn't obsolete brake lines. I got the part number from Nissan, and my normal online dealerships appear wiling to take money for it. No mention of NLA. This particular part (superseded by 46310-0W00A, btw) fits R50s up to 2004, so I'd be certain of its availability. Probably not in stock locally, but for sure on a dusty shelf in one of two Nissan warehouses in CA (where all my random out-of-stock parts come from).

 

Granted, it's probably more convenient for the OP to do the work manually as you guys have described if waiting for the part to arrive is not an option. Personally, if I was going to go through the hassle (and couldn't wait to get them online), I'd also buy enough tubing and fittings to do both sides.

 

And, a 10mmX1.0 machine screw will plug the sides of the distribution tee. Just hand tighten it. There's an internal flare you don't want to damage.

[itsnotwebby]

My local parts shop guys don't know the difference between an intake and a blower, so discussing line size, diameter, and fittings are way over their heads. I called Nissan, and they surprisingly have the pre-bent and flared line for $18 and change and about a weeks wait to come from TN. With the help you guys have given me, I think I'm just going to call my local shop and tell them I need a 3/16 diameter line with 10mm fittings, and go measure the length. It looks like its almost a straight shot minus the bend near the drum, and another to jet it over to the T so I'm sure I can bend those around a soda can.

 

Thanks for the part lookup btw, I'm gonna save that site for future needs.

 

I'll post when fixed.

 

-Josh

[01Pathmaker]

Actually, I stand corrected, those line are available (obviously) but the 2 that go from the load valve to the "quad" block and the short line from the load valve to the rubber hose were no longer available according to 3 different Nissan dealers and several online Nissan parts dealers. Still trying to figure out who the brain was that designed the braking system on these, 2 lines from the abs controller to a quad block to a load valve (that probably doesn't even work very well) then single line out from load valve to t block. This creates a non efficient abs system, as if 1 rear wheel starts to lock up, it'll modulate both rear wheels.