Gremlin_Offroad Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 My 94 pathy is going dead very frequently. I've already checked for parasitic draw and there is none going into my system, the battery has been changed for another new one and still same problem,I have to keep it on a trickle charger constantly and my alternator is still working just fine. anyone else have/had this issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CO_pathfinder Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I mean, people with all kinds of cars have this issue, it is hardly a Pathfinder specific problem. You say that you checked for parasitic draw into the system and found none? Not sure how you are losing battery charge then... how did you test for the parasitic draw? Also, is your Pathy equipped with the security system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 How and where did you check for the draw? It's clearly got one somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Umm, where do I begin...ok my alternator died and was the main cause of the battery not charging properly. Bought a new battery before I found it was actually the alternator's fault. So installed a new alternator and didn't wire it up properly. Found out the wiring to the ignition relay was fried so installed two new wires to that relay and everything has been fine since. Battery was charging to 13.8v last time I checked. So your alternator isn't getting excessively hot? You should check it after a 20 min run. If it's too hot you can be sure a bearing is going in it. If you can comfortably rest your finger on the top of it for 10 seconds then it's normal. The ignition relay should be right next to your battery, coming out of the positive lead connection. You'll see it, it's a black connector with two wires. If you can pull on the wire and it snaps, it's a sure sign it's been fried. Good little tip I learned from the auto electrician. Also check battery has plenty of distilled water in it. If not, it's a sign of fried cells. Starter motor should be pushing out 10v+ on startup. This can be tested at any good auto shop with a multimeter. I was lucky I was able to get mine jump started so I could go and have it tested. They found the battery was only 12v while running, indicating a bad alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 When you checked for parasitic drain, you detached one of the battery terminals and then placed an ammeter set to the milliamp range? There must be a drain if your alternator tests good (should be over 14 volts measured across the battery terminals when the vehicle is idling), and your battery is new.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CO_pathfinder Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 ^ what he said Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 To check for parasitic drain, you attach positive multimeter clip to +terminal and then the negative multimeter lead to a metal part on the car, for example a ground connection. If there's a difference by 0.4 volts, then you know you have a bad ground connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaBigPerm Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 I had a similar issue (minus the prior electrical stuff) a while back. Turns out the brake lights were staying on due to the little plastic buttons having crumbled out of the switch bracket, not turning them off when the brake pedal was in the "not being used" position. never noticed it because every time I went to the truck, the battery was dead (and hence lights not on). Jumped it off for the 3rd or fourth time and just happened to walk around the back before taking off and noticed they were on. Interior lights can do the same if a door switch isn't working right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin_Offroad Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 Sorry been a little busy lately I did check for parasitic draw the way terranovations described and it has been nothing. I haven't had time to check the alternator since I've gotten back home, I'm gonna have to double check that, however I don't have my flood lights anymore and it's not the bulbs or the fuse and I was wondering where the relay for them were at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 For the fog lights? By the passenger's side hood hinge on mine. Beats me how it would be draining the battery but show no load, unless the meter fuse is blown or something. Try opening a door so the dome light comes on and test again, make sure there's something then. Start the meter on a higher range and work down, if you start at mA and you have a big drain you could easily pop the little fuse in the tester. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Double check the wiring on the back of the alternator. Might have something blocking the electrical connections so spray clean them out with electrics cleaner, then check the battery charge with it running. If the battery is at 13.6v or above then it's all good. If the battery is still at 12v or under then it's the alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin_Offroad Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 Ok thanks I will definitely check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now