Torsion bar lift - how to?

[mickyficky]

I'm looking at doing the poor man's lift (torsion bars adjustment in the front and spacers or springs in the rear). I've found info about the springs, spacers, ride heights, ball joint angles, etc...

 

Can someone help me with the torsion bar adjustment. Not the re-indexing, but the actual adjustment to lift the front end. Basically, where do I put the wrench and how do I crank them up. Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I can't find it anywhere.

 

Also, I need new control arm bushings, tires, and an alignment. What order should I do everything 1) bushings 2) torsion bar adjustment 3) alignment 4) tires???? I'm not really into changing the control arms ($$) unless everyone here says I absolutely should. I just want an inch or 1-1/2 lift

 

Thanks

[nunya]

Proper control arms that correct ball joint angle would be ideal but many people get away without them.

 

As for adjusting the torsion bars, crawl underneath your truck, follow the torsion bars back to the cross brace about mid front door area and you will see the bolts for the torsion keys (1 per side). Should be double nut on the top (who knows what the previous owner has done though, hence "should"), crack the top but loose, hold the bottom one with a wrench, tighten the bolt head (which is aiming at the ground) to desired height/stiffness. Righty tighty.

[RedPath88]

If your going to be doing this it might not be a bad idea to start fresh by re-indexing them. The instructions on doing that are in the HOW To section above and although there is a bit more involved than nunya's adjustment instructions above, it's it by no means difficult. Just takes some time.

 

The order?

1. Bushings/Arms
2. Adjust Torsion Bars
3. Tires
4. Alignment (if not at the same time, then very soon after)

3 & 4 can be swapped, if you get tires and alignment done at the same shop, ask them.

[mickyficky]

Thanks for the responses. I've had the truck for over 10 years, I don't think anyone has messed with the torsion bars or anything else on the suspension. I upgraded the shocks to stock size procomps (ES1000 i think) about 6 years ago. I've seen the re-indexing page and will check that out again.

 

2 more questions:

1) How difficult is the control are swap (assuming I'm already changing the bushings).

2) If I get new control arms, are longer shocks a must? How high can the truck be lifted with stock sized shocks? (same question for the poor mans lift I guess)...

 

Basically, I want to lift it a bit, but don't want to spend too much. This is a second vehicle that doesn't do a lot of miles and doesn't need to perfect. Just want a little lift and more importantly, new tires! Thanks

[Nefarious]

You don't need longer shocks in the front for your torsion lift.

 

if you go close to 2" higher in the rear then you may want longer rear shocks.

 

If you replace the front upper control arms with aftermarket ones, then you don't need to do the control arm bushings as the aftermarket arms come with new bushings.

 

If you want to keep stock control arms then it's kind of a pain to replace the bushings but not too bad. personally, if you actually only want 1-1.5" of lift, then I wouldn't worry about buying aftermarket control arms. If you go 2" or higher than its probably for the best if you do get them; but, I personally wouldn't use the AC control arms as they do not correct ball joint angles anyway. The superlift arms (also on AC website) are a much better choice if you plan to go that route. They are slightly longer (to account for camber) and angled to sit ball joints level.

[Nefarious]

For a 1-1.5 " lift though, it's not worth (in my opinion) spending money on aftermarket control arms. You will be fine with stock.

 

The control arm swap itself is very very easy. But if you want to keep stock control arms and just replace bushings it's much more work but also costs much less money. Trade off for sure.

 

if you are serious about 1.5 " then I would personally do this for the budget minded.

 

Crank torsion bars to desired height. Replace upper control arm bushings, install fleurys rear coil spacers for either 1" or 2" rear lift depending on the stance you want. If you want 2" rear you probably want to get longer rear shocks to accommodate the extra travel, if 1" is all you want in rear, I wouldn't worry about rear shocks.

 

this 1.5 front / 1 rear lift will cost about 110$ in parts.

if you want 1.5 front / 2 rear it will cost about 200$ including new rear shocks.

Edited September 19, 2014 by Nefarious

[Precise1]

Looks like you've been answered. I'll just chime in to say that I agree, for a small lift there is no point in replacing the upper control arms. When changing the bushings, many people burn out the old ones, there are threads on that as well.

 

A few tips...

When you go to adjust the T-bars, measure all 4 corners of the vehicle from level ground to the center of the body crease and write them down; this will be your base point and you will need it. Factory stance is slightly nose down (.5" maybe). It isn't necessary, but I believe it helps with handling a little. Before you adjust the T-bars, oil the threads on the adjuster bolt to reduce the chance of galling and DO NOT jack up the vehicle. If you do the T-bars will need to settle into position again, usually 24 hours and a brief drive. I wouldn't reindex the bars unless you can't what you want out of them in the current position.

 

It is an easy job.

 

B