oaky8 Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Hi, first post here. Kind of in a bind so im skipping the welcome forum post for now. I took my pathy out for a drive tonight it was a bad time. It overheated a few times and the steering has gained a very notchy feel when taking turns at very low speed <10mph. I lightly smelled coolant while on a big bridge, but didn't think much of it. About 5 minutes later i slow down to take a U turn. this is when the problems become noticeable. FIrst the steering got this strange notch feel, like it was vibrating while i was turning the wheel to do the U turn. Then once I was giving the engine gas to complete the turn it hesitated then launched a little hard; but nothing wild. It felt as if the front axles were binding like when in 4wd. Although i was in 2wd. I drive about 100 yards and look down to see its overheated. I make a right turn and still feel the weird steering. Pull over and vapor is coming from the hood. After letting it sit about 15 minutes i open the radiator cap. Luckily there was a ditch near by and i filled it from completely empty with nasty ditch water. I then drove the car back on the highway for another 8 miles and it did fine. Once off the highway it overheated again and had to steal water from a doctors office. Got back across town and put another liter in before getting home. Its now parked, but the water is leaking out as i type. I think the water pump blew a seal? The steam was coming from the belt area, couldn't really see from where exactly but it wasn't the radiator. Also now once i start the car i get a high pitched squeal for a few seconds. The steering had me thinking it was a belt, but they all seem fine. I have not had a problem with the steering pump before. it has squealed a little at the left and right extremes, but never through out a turn. Now it vibrates like if i was turning a big notched wheel. Never had an overheating problem either. Seems to get hotter quicker at low speeds. Water leaks pretty fast. Put in about 2 gallons in an hour span. Both problems came at the same time, the squeal too. Love my pathfinder. Need to get this sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oaky8 Posted July 14, 2014 Author Share Posted July 14, 2014 Well i'm tearing down today. Taking the radiator out and the water pump. SInce i'm going to be in there anyhow should I get a tranny cooler? So i never have to worry about the coolant in tranny oil problem. Or does that problem only apply to the r51's? Im also thinking about an electric fan instead of the belt driven, simply for power gain reasons, also if i have to drive through some deep water i would like to be able to turn off the fans. Im still not sure what to do about the power steering. The belt is a little loose, but its not that bad, like i wouldn't be surprised if the tension it does have is within normal specifications. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oaky8 Posted July 14, 2014 Author Share Posted July 14, 2014 Finally got under the timing belt shroud. The belt has been replaced before since the belt in there now says napa. It looks fine to me. Not shiny like a glazed brake pad, but it is a little shiny none the less. No cracks or any sign of wear really. I'm sure its not a timing issue, and i've never done a timing belt before so im going to leave it be. Also i don't have the massive socket to take the nut off, but i might need to get that socket to take the pump off ;( The thermostat does look a little worn so that will be replaced along with the water pump. I'm going to forget about the electric fans and oil cooler for now, getting the rad out wasn't bad at all actually. I've really enjoyed working on this engine, not cramped like my old chevy monte carlo z34. AC line was only real annoyance. The front skid/steering rack protector thing was kind of rotten so i had to rip it off. One stripped bolt with a nasty rusty piece of metal it still there. The front inner bumper is pretty rusty to (NJ road salt) is it replaceable? I would like to put on a more heavy duty bumper, winch, and skid plate one day; but if i had to attach all that to the rusty crossmember its all going to be useless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 We will take your first three posts here as your newbie introduction. Welcome to NPORA!! You are fairly close to doing a timing belt swap if you have to replace the water pump. I'd do it if I were already that far into the break down. In fact, most of us replace the WP while we are replacing the TB. All you need at this point is the tensioner pully and the $30 belt itself. Oh, and spring the $9 for the 27mm (?) socket for the harmonic balancer removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oaky8 Posted July 14, 2014 Author Share Posted July 14, 2014 (edited) Haha thanks bud. any ideas on the notchy steering at low speeds? Yeah i hadn't realized that i needed to break that damn crank pulley to do the water pump. Replacing the timing belt tensioner probably isnt a bad idea anyway. What pring or did you mean like i need another 9 bucks for the socket? I will get the xbox huge socket from harbour freight along with the breaker bar. Why does this engine have so many belts. Just one ACC belt would be nice. I haven't taken off the p/s belt but it looks like a pain. And i'm really not looking forward to messing with the timing belt. How i get it TDC? I can't possibly line it all up just by hitting the starter a few times. It seems like you need to TDC before taking the T belt off? How do i know when i've hit the 130lbs when tightening the crank pulley? Taking the starter out and jamming something into the flywheel does not sit well with me, i'm not going to do that. Can i leave the timing belt alone and just change the tensioner? I like that plan much more, if i have to open it back up and change the belt in a year so be it. I dont want to put my FB rx7 to DD duties, so i was hoping to get this done today. Also i have a trail ride next saturday and im not getting the feeling my pathy wants to go out there. Edited July 14, 2014 by oaky8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 The notchy steering is an odd one. I would examine the steering shaft all the way down to the rack and see if maybe something's pressed up against it, or something's come loose behind the wheel (hopefully not the steering lock trying to kick in). Since it goes away at speed though, maybe the problem is with the power steering system. Maybe the pump is going out, or the center seal in the rack is sealing, then not sealing, then sealing again as you turn? I think most people find TDC with a ratchet and a pipe or a breaker bar with a socket on the crank pulley. Just turn it over slow and watch the marks. I'm not sure what the proper method is for tightening the pulley, sorry, but I do remember a guy who held the pulley in place with a strap wrench and said it made his harmonic balancer fail. If yours is a manual, you could just leave it in gear and let the drivetrain hold it. Replacing the tensioner's not a bad idea, but really, if you're doing that, you might as well do the belt while you're at it; you'll have to reset the tension either way. What mileage is it at? I kinda like multiple belts... nice to know that one failed pulley can't take out the alternator, power steering, and A/C all at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I used an impact wrench to remove my pulley. It came off without the need to "block" the engine from turning over. The down side is that I had to remove the radiator to make enough room for the tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) If you don't have access to an impact gun, a ratchet with a cheater bar braced on the ground or whatever works just as well. One tap of the starter and the bolt is loose. Best to have someone hold the socket in place so it doesn't fly off. To tighten it, a large flat head or wide 1/8" or so thick flat bar to brace the flywheel works fine. The starter puts more torque on the thing than 130ft/lbs. If the belt was recently replaced the crank pulley should just slide right off. They're not the press on type but they can rust in place over time. Have you inspected the bypass hose? It's right above the thermostat housing, 90* tube. They're known to burst. Have to checked the power steering fluid? If it's too low, that notch feeling is air entering the system which will kill the pump and steering box in no time. I prefer multiple belts as well. Makes diagnosing strange noises easier. Edited July 15, 2014 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I came here to mention checking the bypass hose as well, and while you are there, you really should change the timing belt as well. It isn't that hard or expensive, but is critical and it doesn't sound like you know the last time it was done. It should be replaced every 105k miles FYI and there is a good write up in the Garage/How To section that will walk you through the process. As for the steering, I would jack up the front end and inspect for anything damaged or failing. Kingman, I know the starter/crank bolt removal trick, but can you describe tightening it the same way with the starter better? I don't quite follow that... Oh, welcome to NPORA! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oaky8 Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) @ Slartibarfast Notchy steering i hope was just water on the belt making the pulleys slick to where they couldn't transmit the power from the crank, kind slip and grabbing because of the water. At least im hoping its that! @ Devonianwalk I wish I had air or a manual @ Kingman 250$ worth of parts last night, and i still didn't get the T belt, everyone saying i should do it anyway is convincing me to run back to the parts store. I got the crank bolt with the starter trick, not sure how to re tighten in however. How do i get to the flywheel? Haven't really looked at removing the starter, but it looks hard to get to. I used the alternator belt yesterday as a make shift strap wrench lol. Didnt work too well, but kinda did its job. I will take a look at the bypass hose, thanks. Is there an air bleed valve somewhere? @ Precise1 yeah thinking about going back to get the belt. Although at 146k miles and with a non-original in there i'm far from that 105K miles interval. Feels good to be part of NPORA! thanks OH! TDC, is just the two cam gears lined up nipple to dimple right? I don't worry about what the crank gear is pointing too? Edited July 15, 2014 by oaky8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I just came in to add, do not reuse the timing belt. If you re tension an old belt the risk of it failing is greatly increased. They are cheap enough that its not worth the chance. Good luck. It's fairly simple once you figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Have someone hold the flywheel in place while you torque the bolt. Or impact tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Mine is impact tight. I'm absolutely sure I'll get blasted for that but, two years of daily driving and all is still holding together. @ Devonianwalk I wish I had air or a manual Mine is an auto transmission. The impact was strong enough to "bang" (or is it "hammer" ) the nut off. I bought my air compressor just for this job. Money well spent as I use it all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I guess it could be a slipping belt, but I've had mad belt slip and never felt that. Do check your steering fluid res, Kingman's theory makes more sense than anything I've come up with. I believe there is an air bleed, but I'm not sure where it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 It is in the Factory Service Manual, downloadable from the pinned thread in the Garage section... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oaky8 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 LOL so i put it all back together. And i hadn't checked the return hose. So of course it leaked. The good thing is that im much faster at taking it apart now. Where do i get a new hose? I see nothing for it on the autozone site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Probably a dealership item. Go local or call Rob Lacy (Alkorahil here), his info is in the Classifieds/Services section. He's in Texas and will get it out to you ASAP. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 You mean the bypass hose? The one behind the timing belt covers? You can get those anywhere. It's called the bypass hose, basically an elbow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 And if not, take a look at the parts store's hose collection. Something will fit if you cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oaky8 Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 Figured out the generic bypass hose a bit after posting lol. Thanks though adamzan. I did have to cut a little bit kingman Well its now all back together. Of course i left the idle pulley loose so it was making some noise. Got it tightened and everything was back to perfect! Steering fixed, and no noise even on the left and right extremes. Must have been a loose belt and water causing it to slip combo that caused the notchy steering. So thanks for the welcomes guys, I think i've made enough of a fool of myself in this first thead. But thank y'all so much for the help. Glad to be part of the community, maybe i'll come up with a cool mod as a way to give back to the group Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 Just try to help the next guy and you are all paid up. Glad you got it all together and running right again. Did you change the T-belt? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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