gv280z Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 Hey guys, well this morning I've had to learn a new hard lesson I was formerly ignorant about. Windshield frame rust. Over the past couple of months, I'd started experiencing a few little drips from the top of my windshield which got worse, it became more of a steady constant drip in a good soaking rain. Well I thought I could fix by just ripping out the old weather stripping and put in a new one. That didn't work. So I took it to a windshield glass repair place and asked them to install for me a new molding to go around the windshield. Not happening. What is needed is actually to remove the windshield, at which time during removal supposedly the windshield is going to break so it'll also need to be replaced...sigh...okay, fine replace the new windshield with the new molding so the truck doesn't have water leaking inside anymore.... So I take it in this morning and they tell me they can't replace the windshield until after a frame / body repair tech cleans all the rust out of the windshield frame, so that they can then primer it, lay down the glue and install the new windshield properly. Holy crap! They told me they can do as best they can, install the new windshield but that it may start to leak and deteriorate within the next few years. So I'm mulling that over and trying to think about getting rid of it, trade it in at some point during the few good years....I don't know... Then the body guy says he can do the work for $200. Hmm...that's not as bad as I thought it was going to be...so I told him okay, get it done and that's where I'm at now. Get my truck back on Monday. But this is all because the previous owner who had that windshield installed didn't have it done correctly, the repair place didn't use any primer or prep work before just slapping that new windshield in there, which then allowed moisture to collect and begin the rust process. It's sorta opened my eyes to just one more thing now that you gotta watch out for (somehow) upon buying a new to you used car 2nd hand...ask has the windshield ever been replaced? If so, who did the work, did they do it correctly, is there a warranty. Look and see if the windshield has any factory or brand logo / stickers on it, look around the edges to try to detect any tampering around the windshield frame. Oh and apparently silicon and car finishes is bad. I guess it can accelerate rust and deterioration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 I had this same problem. The glass shop felt bad for me i guess as they didn't charge extra to fix the rust... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 (edited) Hehehe..you don't think you did, I'm paying 180 for the glass, and 200 for the rust work, and both of those have already been cut down a bit from 200 and 250 respectively. It was going to be 400 and then I told the guy I had more work for him...I also saw an R50 in for the same thing and that windshield had been replaced by one that we all see commercials for and being re-imbursed by your auto insurance...that company didn't use any primer, just a slapped in job. I guess on the upside, it'll have a warranty and a tint brow and in glass radio antennae That's kinda nice stuff that I didn't need to spend 400 bucks on but what the hell, eh? Edited June 29, 2014 by gv280z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 This just goes to show that proper preparation of the work surface must be done before installing such a big item. It's like having a wooden floor surface and just applying the lacquer over all the saw dust. Sure it's sealed, but will look like crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 I paid 350 for mine but that is just over inflated Canada pricing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearkobe Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 mines gonna be 600 just to fix the rust. my winsheild cracked cause of the rust on the top drivers corner and the middle cracked to because of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 That's exactly where my rust was! Middle and drivers side, exactly. Infact the middle was really bad, the guy had to do a little paint work after he fixed it, meaning that's how much he had to dig into it to get all the cancer, clean it up and then I'm guessing bondo, dry and paint. Damn, 600 man..that's rough, sorry to hear that, after all it's not like you were just walking around one day, having 600 bucks burning a hole in your pocket, looking for something useful to do with itself. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearkobe Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 i beleive its just to replace the whole peice straight across and paint it and thats not including the windsheild. so im looking close to 900 bucks. I hear these this stuff that will it the rust and it would fill it in? I forgot what its called. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 This is not the place to cheap out...If you don't have the money to fix it right, just save up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
level9 Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 For $200 to fix the rust issue, I would probably let them deal with it, but more than that I would DIY. The window can be cut out and removed yourself. It's super easy with the right tool. I used ATD Tools 8562 18" Professional Urethane Cut-Out Knife when I did mine. Once the window is out, wire wheel/sand out the old urethane sealant and any rust. Apply 3 coats of a moisture cured urethane like POR-15, Chassis Saver, Zerorust, etc. to prime/seal the area. Let cure, then SCUFF sand with 80 grit. Next, apply a GOOD quality body filler (not bondo). I use Fibreglass Evercoat 889 Metal-2-Metal Aluminum Reinforced Filler. If there are rust holes, place masking tape on the bottom side to hold the filler in place while it cures. Once cured, remove tape and use a block/flat sander to work the filler down until the area is level. If not enough filler to level, just apply another layer and sand again. Once straight and level (or perhaps I should say - correctly contoured), top coat with 2 more coats of urethane paint to seal the body filler. Don't forget to seal both sides of any rust holes. Then scuff sand that with 150-320 grit. At this point you can either replace the window yourself (make sure to use the correct urethane sealant and primer which it sounds like the OP may have been missing). Alternatively, throw on some quick, cheap silicone, place window back and immediately drive to the glass shop and have them replace. It's a lot of work..probably a good days worth. You could do it faster if you use a different paint/primer like a 2k epoxy (shorter cure times). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearkobe Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Cant i run gorilla tape across for now when the rainy season comes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 Why not go ahead and try it, it may provide some water shed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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