msavides Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 (edited) Ok I am posting this for 2 reasons . 1 to organize my troubleshooting thoughts. 2 to get some feedback on what to try. My pathfinder has been plagued by this issue for about 3 years now. It has just recently got worse. 3 years ago (aprox) I has having the high idle issue where my pathfinder would idle at about 1500-2000 rpm. I replaced TPS, IIAC,AAV, Mass Air flow wiring (nissan kit), Spark plugs and wires, Cap and rotor, Fuel filter, Fuel pressure regulator, both coolant sensors, all fuel injectors. What finally fixed the high idle was a replacement MAF sensor. However the stalling out is still there. it does not die. It seems like it dies but my engine is still running when it stalls and I pull over. It intermittently seems to stall on acceleration. The other day it did it after a left turn and acceleration. I have checked my battery and connections I though it may be a broken battery mount disconnecting wires. But all is good there. I also have a brand new CAT and O2 sensor. (just got it to pass smog) And before anyone says to asks for codes there are none just 55. This used to happen maybe once a month, it recently went to about once a week and yesterday it did it twice on me. I am thinking fuel. perhaps my fuel pump, Maybe a chunk of something clogging the sock. I have checked my fuel pressure with a gauge and it was fine. (can't remember the pressure reading) But this seems to be intermittent. Edited June 9, 2014 by msavides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 So when it stalls (stumbles, not dying) and you pull over, what happens then? Does it rev back up when you feather the throttle, do you shut it off and restart? What action ends the stumbling? Operating under the the assumption that all the parts you replaced are working properly/were set properly I would check the connection/wire to the ECU temp sensor, the TPS output over the entire range, the connection to the ECU it's self (loose or corroded), the wires to the fuel pump, most wires/connectors under the hood and maybe the fuel pressure again (34 psi idle, 43 the moment it is fully open). It seems like an intermittent electrical issue... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 It just recovers after about 30 secs. yea just feathering the throttle. But it never dies. I don't have to start the engine. again. I adjusted the TPS per factory service manual. That was the most pain in the but to adjust. Very touchy. I will check the temp sensor wire for corrosion. again. I checked the wires to the fuel pump all nice and clean. (the connector that is) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 (edited) Did you check the wires that go through the tank? I'd drop the tank and have a look. Even if it's not the problem it's ruled out. It might be beneficial to shut the engine off when it's acting up and read some spark plugs. Edited June 9, 2014 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 I will check that stuff out this weekend it is not 108 degrees outside like it was yesterday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 LOL I ran the AC the last two days which means it was hot here; that means it is hellish in the central valley! No AC in the garage? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 LOL I ran the AC the last two days which means it was hot here; that means it is hellish in the central valley! No AC in the garage? B I would get a lot more done If I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Does it do this only when turning and under load or will it do it in the driveway in park? Does it do it onyl after it has been running for a while? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 (edited) only turning or under a load. accelerating after a turn or after a stop sign going straight. I don't think turning has anything to do with it actually, It is a manual transmission so no park. and it will not do it in the driveway in neutral. has only acted up at normal operating temp, after driving it for a while, never when cold Edited June 11, 2014 by msavides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Park wouldn't be the issue - movement possible is. Stuff sloshing around in the tank, wiring moving around, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 Very possible only does it when I punch it. I guess it could also be fuel starvation. the fuel filter only has about 3000 miles on it but it was replaced 4 years ago, so It May need to be changed again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikestewart395 Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 OMG. On the way to work I figured out I am having this same problem. I posted about it but my Limp Mode problem was after I dunked it in the water a few months ago. After replacing the ECM it was always reading code 51, injector circuit. But today I noticed a pattern. I drive through the city on a 40 min commute . I noticed coming home it runs fine. Limp mode off, it will allow me to run at 60 mph and I can rpm it up to about 2800. On the way to work, I have a sharp u-turn then a min later its a slight incline over a waterway bridge. I noticed it ALWAYS starts limp mode after that sharp left u-turn, it will start stuttering and backfiring as soon as it hits 2200 rpm and won't go above it. As soon as I start a small climb up the bridge it really gets bad and won't go over about 38 mph. As soon as I start DOWN the bridge it levels out and after a couple min. I am able to hit 60 mph again and basically it runs fine, minus the issue I always had where it won't go past 3k rpm/65 mph. So I am very interested in what this turning /stall problem is. I was planning this past weekend to replace the injectors as the ECM was coding me about the. I had disconnected all connections under the hood, cleaned them and elect. greased them. Nothing was fixing the code/problem. It seems we are having the same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Get a timing light and check your timing. Also, check and make sure the small hose that goes from the back of the intake plenum to the fuel pressure regulator is not loose/missing/has cracked ends. this hose is at the back of the engine near #6 cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted June 12, 2014 Author Share Posted June 12, 2014 Get a timing light and check your timing. Also, check and make sure the small hose that goes from the back of the intake plenum to the fuel pressure regulator is not loose/missing/has cracked ends. this hose is at the back of the engine near #6 cylinder. I checked that vacuum line first thing. no cracks and it fits pretty tight. It was replaced 3 years ago along with the fuel pressure regulator. I did not think you could adjust the timing on this engine, in the past every time I tried to adjust it it would go back to where it was. Or are you just saying to check to make sure it is correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 I checked that vacuum line first thing. no cracks and it fits pretty tight. It was replaced 3 years ago along with the fuel pressure regulator. I did not think you could adjust the timing on this engine, in the past every time I tried to adjust it it would go back to where it was. Or are you just saying to check to make sure it is correct? Goood thing checking that vacuum hose first thing! My line of thinking on this is that it may be distributor related. The camshaft position sensor is located inside the distributor of the VG30e engine. When there is a big change in engine RPMs under load the ECU is not recieveing signal correctly and the engine will cut off if the ECU doenst recieve an expected signal because the ECU freaks out. Check to make sure it is correct if it is off it could cause your issue. Even if it isnt the issue it would not hurt to check and adjust if needed! You can adjust timing on the trucks. Loosen the retaining bolt that holds the distributor to the block slightly and rotate it right or left to advance or retard the engine timing. The harmonic balancer has 4 slash marks on it. They are usually hard to see on the vehicles as the paint marks have usually worn off a long tim ago. I like to take white out or white paint and fill in the four slash marks and the indicator on the block so I can see them clearly. The timing should be at 15 degrees BTDC +/- 2 degrees. For AT vehicles make sure the vehicle in in Neutral with the parking brake on. Facing the vehicle and engine bay looking down at the harmonic balancer, the four timing slash marks on the balancer are right from left: TDC (0 degrees) 10 degrees 20 degrees 30 degrees So ideally you want to be in the middle of the four timing marks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 Goood thing checking that vacuum hose first thing! My line of thinking on this is that it may be distributor related. The camshaft position sensor is located inside the distributor of the VG30e engine. When there is a big change in engine RPMs under load the ECU is not recieveing signal correctly and the engine will cut off if the ECU doenst recieve an expected signal because the ECU freaks out. Check to make sure it is correct if it is off it could cause your issue. Even if it isnt the issue it would not hurt to check and adjust if needed! You can adjust timing on the trucks. Loosen the retaining bolt that holds the distributor to the block slightly and rotate it right or left to advance or retard the engine timing. The harmonic balancer has 4 slash marks on it. They are usually hard to see on the vehicles as the paint marks have usually worn off a long tim ago. I like to take white out or white paint and fill in the four slash marks and the indicator on the block so I can see them clearly. The timing should be at 15 degrees BTDC +/- 2 degrees. For AT vehicles make sure the vehicle in in Neutral with the parking brake on. Facing the vehicle and engine bay looking down at the harmonic balancer, the four timing slash marks on the balancer are right from left: TDC (0 degrees) 10 degrees 20 degrees 30 degrees So ideally you want to be in the middle of the four timing marks. when i have tried adjusting it in the past. when i move the distributor. the timing changes for a couple of seconds then it goes right back to the previous setting(14 deg). I assumed the computer was correcting it. no matter how much I moved the distributor. If I remember correctly it was stuck on 14 degrees. The previous owner had the distributor replace before I got it, but that was over 7 years ago. I am not opposed to replacing it, I am well on my way to have replaced everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 is the checking the timing to determine if the crank angle sensor is working? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txpath4x4 Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 no checking the timing with a light is to determine that you are firing at the correct time, and on the right cylinder. i had this same problem on my '84 GMC small block... had to replace the distributor on that one. im with Alkorahil definitely sounds distributor related. an easy way to tell on the crank if you are firing at the right time (at least how i do it) paint the slash that you need only and point the light on the crank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 I think I will head down to the local pick n pull and grab a distributor. They have about 8 compatible vehicles that I can pull it from. Local auto zone wants $277.00 and does not offer the Crank angle sensor separately. At least then I am only out $40 if it is not the problem. Thanks Guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 I think I will head down to the local pick n pull and grab a distributor. They have about 8 compatible vehicles that I can pull it from. Local auto zone wants $277.00 and does not offer the Crank angle sensor separately. At least then I am only out $40 if it is not the problem. Thanks Guys For $40,you have a spare one if that is not what is causing the issue and have ruled it out as a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaBigPerm Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 when i have tried adjusting it in the past. when i move the distributor. the timing changes for a couple of seconds then it goes right back to the previous setting(14 deg). I assumed the computer was correcting it. no matter how much I moved the distributor. If I remember correctly it was stuck on 14 degrees. The previous owner had the distributor replace before I got it, but that was over 7 years ago. I am not opposed to replacing it, I am well on my way to have replaced everything. I haven't fiddled with the timing on mine, but I've been meaning to confirm it. On my old '91 Mustang, I remember you had to pull a plug that acted as a jumper when checking/adjusting timing. Doing so disabled the computer's ability to adjust the advance so you were measuring the "native" advance of the distributer with no ECU shenanegans. Anyone know if there's a similar setup with the VG30e? or are you actually supposed to adjust timing with the ECU "live" and fiddling with the advance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 or are you actually supposed to adjust timing with the ECU "live" and fiddling with the advance? This. Check and adjust with the vehicle engine running at idle in park with parking brake on and vehicle transmission in neutral. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 I would think that my timing is correct as it just passed smog. It would have failed if the timing was off too much. I will still need to check it after I swap out he distributor Question should I swap out the entire distributor or should I just swap out the Crank angle sensor? what would be easier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 The whole thing would be easier. Pull old, install new. Or pull old, tear both new and old apart, rebuild old with new sensor, and install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 so you have to pull the distributor to remove the sensor. ok then swapping it would be easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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