Treleaven Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Who is ready to be stumped? Here we go. I have a 1999.5 Pathfinder LE. I only have the key for it. No fobs to access or test the power door locks or smart entrance control unit. It starts every time perfectly and almost every feature works. The only features that do not work are the door chime, power windows, power door locks, power seats, and power sunroof. I have changed all fuses, fuse-links, and relays that are related. When I pull and then reinsert the elec B fuse, and when I hit the power lock button, I can hear and feel the SECU click. Fuse #13 was blown so I replaced it I replaced the starter fuse and the door chime started working for about 5 minutes and then stopped. I replaced the FL-40 fuse-link for the ACC I have no found another instance of this happening on any of the 3 forums I have joined over the past couple of days and I have searched everything I could possibly think of but nothing has a common denominator besides the ACC fuse-link. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I do not have access to a multimeter but I could probably get one over the next couple of days. Cheers Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 I would check for power at connector E1/M1. Inspect the connector for any corrosion. All those things not working should lead to one thing causing the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 If there was trouble at E1-M1 would I not lose power to my headlights, taillights and fogs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 (edited) Maybe, what may be happening is some corrosion in the connector causing some things to work, and others short or not work.. Joys of electrical repair. Gotta get in there and do some testing. It's possible you have a SECU failing. The only way to know for sure is to check your powers, grounds, inputs and outputs. Diagnosing over the 'net isn't exactly easy. Have patience. Edited May 4, 2014 by 5523Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 Would you happen to have a picture of where the E1-M1 connection is. I saw the diagram but I am unable to figure out where it is actually on the pathy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 I need a little help tracing a wire here and I do not seem to be able to find it in the FSM. On the back of the fuse box, in the E3 connection, my 9W pin has been pushed it from the looks of it and I am curious if that may have something to do with my problem. Also, at connection M81, my 2Z connection had masking tape on it but I am unsure where that heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Been tinkering around for a bit but a lack of a volt meter puts me down for a few. I disconnected and reconnected the fuse box and the SECU. I did not see any corrosion at all and I had thought I hit jack pot when I plugged my SECU back in and the alarm started going off but that was not my answer. I have unplugged and plugged back in every harness under the dash but still no success. I left my bag of tools in my other car so I will not be able to look at the E1-M1 harness until my fiancee gets home with my gear. Would my alarm going off when the SECU was plugged back in suggest that it is in fact working properly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byob Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 You have a short. When the fuse blows in that circut you need to trace what is in that circut. It is simple because your fuse is blowing. Try each component to see what causes the fues to blow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 You have a short. When the fuse blows in that circut you need to trace what is in that circut. It is simple because your fuse is blowing. Try each component to see what causes the fues to blow My fuse isnt blowning. That is whats tricky. All fuses are good to go but still no power to the accesories. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 (edited) I would check for power at connector E1/M1. Inspect the connector for any corrosion. All those things not working should lead to one thing causing the problem. So, I took M1-E1 and M2-E2 apart. They both looked perfect. Reinstalled with no difference. I am guessing the next step is to get a multi meter and test for power at M1? Not sure how a person would go about doing that? Edited May 5, 2014 by Treleaven Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byob Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 My fuse isnt blowning. That is whats tricky. All fuses are good to go but still no power to the accesories. My misuderstanding. Try this-even though the fuse is good it might not have continuity through the spade in the fuse block. If the spade is loose it will not send power to the circut. It has happened before. A test light will show power on both sides of the fuse but there is poor contact is the block. I used to slightly twist the fuse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 7, 2014 Author Share Posted May 7, 2014 Picked up a multimeter last night. I took apart the M1-E1 harness the other day and then powered on the pathy to test the windows but I did not start it. Then it sat for a day and a half and I tried to start it last night. Cranking but no start. I took the harness apart again to look for anything loose or broken or bent. Found nothing, so I put it back together and tried to start. Just clicking of relays, no cranking, no start. Now I have the harness apart again. Anything I can check while it is apart? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byob Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 What are you not getting-Spark or fuel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Spark/fuel's kinda moot when the thing won't turn over. So, you had a dead circuit, swapped the fuse, and it worked briefly, then died. Then as you worked on the wiring, the engine wouldn't start, and then it wouldn't even turn over. My guess is that there's a problem in the circuit that was originally dead, a frayed wire or something, that caused enough of a short to take out the original fuse. When you put a new fuse in, the circuit worked again, but crapped out quickly; if the fuse is still okay, maybe the shorting electrical component just gave out. The circuit didn't work anymore, either because it was disconnected or because there was a short somewhere that deprived the rest of the system of power. If there is in fact a short (or a load with just enough resistance that it won't blow the fuse), that could've run your battery down while you were working on it, to the point where it didn't have the power to run the starter properly. I'd get the battery on the charger before tearing into the wiring again, just to make sure you haven't found or caused a bigger issue than the windows. When it's back to how it was before, go through the faulty circuitry, and unhook the battery (or pull the fuse) when you're not testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byob Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Spark/fuel's kinda moot when the thing won't turn over. I disagree. He said it would crank but not start Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 I think my problem was that I did not tighten the bolt on the main harness enough. I tightened it and the truck is running again but I am still without windows, locks, sunroof, seats. Fuses are still all good. I'm away for work but I will be using the multi meter this weekend to hunt down my power options problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Good to hear you got it running. I remember the super multiple junction thing giving me issues when I pulled it apart once to see what it was. Getting it back in is kind of like sticking two great big Lego plates together. Now that you've got a meter, you can check for power in various places until you track down where it should be but isn't. I'd start off at the fuses. You know they're good, but all the same, check for power there; a good fuse doesn't matter if the wiring isn't delivering power to it, or if the fuse box is damaged. I had a hell of a time fixing my driving lights the other day because the wiring all looked good, but power wasn't getting to the lamps... turned out my cheap fuse holder (aftermarket) had melted and wasn't contacting the fuse! So, first, check from the fuses to ground (any bare metal on the body works), should be 12v or so with the ignition on. You may have to pull the fuses out and stick a piece of paper clip or something in there so you have something to test from (if you do, keep in mind only one leg of each fuse goes to +). If there's no power to the fuses, start checking the wiring to the fuse box. If you have power at the box, the problem's further down the line... follow the wires and test for power in other spots. Once you find where the power isn't anymore, you can narrow down the problem to whichever module or plug or length of wire is between where it tested good and where it didn't. Hopefully you don't have to pull out much of the interior to find the problem. I disagree. He said it would crank but not start Just clicking of relays, no cranking, no start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 I am going to take it in for a recall inspection first and see if it passes the front strut mount inspection. I have rust on my mounts but nothing penetrating into holes. Just surface rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 After looking at the FSM it appears to me your problem is a faulty ignition switch or corroded/loose ignition switch connectors. Door chime, power windows, power door locks, power seats, and power sunroof all need circuits on the ignition switch to be closed to operate and the ignition relay to be good. This would also explain your intermittent cranking issue. These all also share ground M4 an M66. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 My ignition, to me, seems perfect. I had starting troubles after not plugging my harness in properly. I will be checking and cleaning grounds. I spotted a ground that was all corroded the other day so I know a few of them could use a cleaning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byob Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Picked up a multimeter last night. I took apart the M1-E1 harness the other day and then powered on the pathy to test the windows but I did not start it. Then it sat for a day and a half and I tried to start it last night. Cranking but no start. I took the harness apart again to look for anything loose or broken or bent. Found nothing, so I put it back together and tried to start. Just clicking of relays, no cranking, no start. Now I have the harness apart again. Anything I can check while it is apart? Wow I kept reading crank but no start. I believe that is what I read. Yep thats what I read Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 So I have started by checking the grounds. I found and cleaned the M77 in the engine bay, a ground in the kick panel drivers side under the carpet, and one that is located above the ASCD in the driver kick panel. I am just not sure where to look for the M4 and M66. I know somewhat where they should be but I do not know if I have found the right ones or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 I checked for power at M23(power window relay) and I have no volts with the key in ACC...where to go from here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 I have done some more digging...I have power to the FL40a (f), I have power to fuse 11, I have power to the red/yellow wire of the power window relay (M23) but no other wires in M23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Treleaven Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 Can anyone point me to the M66 ground? How to access it and where it is located. I have looked it up in the FSM but I cannot figure out where it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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