MrEviLDeD Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 (edited) Cracked my ankle with the rotor as it slid off trying to hammer on the edge of the lower ball joint.. OWCH! Little mark, Huge pain! At first I had a difficulty getting the rotor off as it just didn't want to give and it was impossible to fish the outer wheel bearing out. Well once it came out and I soaked it in some industrial purple to clean it I wanted to ask what the best method to determine if it is bad? This was one of the things the inspector mentioned. There is a bit of play in the bearing once it was cleaned, well even so when it was still packed with grease. Should there be any play in the bearing at all? As I recall there shouldn't be but wanted to ask for some reassurance.. Looks like i need to possibly order new bearings. Oh almost forgot, how do you properly check the bearing races. They should just be smooth correct? Not sure if I should replace as a set or just replace the wheel bearings (inner and outer) Edited March 10, 2014 by MrEviLDeD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 before you took it apart did you check to see if there was play when trying to move the tire up and down? The bearing will have slight play when in the race but usually you want to look for any signs of burnt marks or scratches in the rollers, if you have it apart already might as well just replace them and know they are good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Yes sir I did. However I didn't see any play at all. It wasn't until I had things apart that the lower ball joint looseness became apparent. With the wheel off I tried to manually move the rotor and didn't notice any real play except in the steering direction (tie-rod?) Ok, I won't fret over it. I will just get new ones. Note I do not have the races out, just the front outer wheel bearing on the right side. If the races appear smooth still then should I just buy the bearings (not sure if my edit of the post above sends a notification or not) As always thanks ahardb0dy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 If you are changing the bearings, you have to change the races as well, and the grease seal on the inside. If you don't change the races the new bearings won't seat right and will fail real fast, make noise, or not tighten. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 I do not have a press to get the races out. I will buy them in sets then, thanks adamzan. The inner bearings come as a set (race/bearing), the outers come separately. I am starting to think at this rate might as well just pull the engine and throw a rebuild kit at it.... <-- morbid lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 I am afraid to add up all the new bits put into her I know the end result will be well worth the effort but she has drastically gone up from her 1400$ initial price tag.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 If you are changing the bearings, you have to change the races as well, and the grease seal on the inside. If you don't change the races the new bearings won't seat right and will fail real fast, make noise, or not tighten. Which one is this? Does this come with the inner bearing set? Should I be ordering an additional part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 I think I used the wrong word when I said the race, I was referring to the inner and outer part of the bearing as seen in this picture below: If there is too much play in the two parts that make up the bearing I meant to say Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 I understood what you meant no problem. There is a bit more play in the bearing (the image you posted) than I personally would like but I am not sure if that is simply because the bearing is clean and out of the assembly not packed with grease. I do not have a video camera to get a better idea of the play. I think it is most likely a better idea to replace the bearings and races. Just not sure I have the equipment required to pop the races out of the assembly. I do not want to just repack the bearing to put it back in only to have it still show the same problems. Knowing the way my luck runs it would prove to be catastrophic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 I believe to remove the race, you just use a punch and hammer it out from the inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Yes. You don't need a press to change the races, just a punch and some even tapping with a hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Do I have to measure it so it goes back in at the same location? I still need to figure out how to release the inner bearing first so I could even use a punch and remove the race. I will be honest I haven't medled with the bracket (where the inner bearing is) I have only cleaned and inspected the outer/rotor side of things. Got the lower ball joint out this morning as well as a finicky tie rod end. Between needing the bearings and forgetting which of the tie-rod arms was the inner/outer I just called it a day. I probably should just get a shock absorber too since its there. Thanks for the help guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 You remove the inner bearing by prying the grease seal out from the back of the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 When removing the races you should use a soft metal punch (aluminum, brass, bronze, etc) so you don't risk damaging the bearing surfaces. When re-installing, you preload it to a certain torque which 'seats' the races, and always check again after driving for a bit. Installing the races the hub can be tricky at first to make sure you start them straight, and there is less of a surface to strike or press on. I did mine in the driveway with a few peices of wood and metal I had laying around. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Ok I think I have them in, greased up and ready to go back on the pathfinder. I am a little concerned with this pre-loading thing. The processes (found it finally) in the FSM uses some kind of gauge I do not have. What am I torquing specifically? The lock ring? If so then I am going to need yet another specialized tool. I am starting to think I am over my head here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 You don't "need" it but it is recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 Seems that it would be important for the pre-loading. I am just at my wall. So will look around maybe I can fabricate something temp. Not like I could guess or do it by hand and have any idea if am close to the torque spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 What would I be looking for in terms of a "name" for this tool so I can search around for one.Hopefully can get it from CT, or PartSource, or something.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 "Wheel bearing locknut tool". Ct won't have one for the pathfinder. They might, but none here did. You can get one for a chevy that has 4 tabs and cut two off to make it fit. Napa apparently has the right tool though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 I will give them a call. Maybe they have it for loan. Thanks adamzan! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 I think I am going to have to try this one by hand. I just have no idea when I would hit that 0mm axle end-play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 Ok, well I wasn't able to find a tool so what I did by hand was tighten the lock ring up as tight as I could, tried to pull on the rotor. Turned the rotor a couple times, Loosened off the lock ring. turned the rotor, pulled on it to see if there was any play.. repeated until when I tightened it there was no longer any play and once it was loosened there was still no play any longer. I do not have the gauge tool to pull on the lug nut to see how many pounds it takes to turn.90 degrees. I also am not sure if I have the bolts torqued correctly for the ball joints. Seemed like I was starting to crush the rubber on the outside of the ball joint as I tightened so I wasn't sure how far I was supposed to tighten.. Pardon the stupid question but do I tighten until it no longer turns and then torque it? If so then I have to get back out there and tighten those back up some more. Hopefully this will be 1/4 completed now. Just have to do the drivers side, and replace the fuel lines and locate the oil leak. =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 Usually that's how I will do it, tighten it down, spin the rotor both directions a few times, than loosen the lock ring just enough so the screw will line up through the outer ring and the lock down nut, as long as there is no play in the bearing after the wheel/tire is installed ( and if there is, you can pull it back apart and tighten it slightly more) A cheap way to tighten that ring is to use 2 phillips screwdrivers across from each other and than use a wrench or another longer screwdriver to pry against the two you inserted into the lock ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 Now I am pretty sure that I have the tie-rod out a number of threads but could the wheel bearing lock nut being to tight also cause the front end to pull to the right? Maybe I still have it slightly tight ant not exactly 0 foot pounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 It could if that side is dragging, could also be a bad caliper or the tire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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