MrEviLDeD Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 I have been looking at that image. I cannot see the details of the end. It kind of looks like it might be threaded. Scaling the image up anymore (and this is the best one I can find) just makes it worse to see the detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 If it was threaded, you would have to twist that entire cable around 10 times to thread it in, and then where are the wrench flats? I see none... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 Good call. I will do as you suggested tomorrow morning and see if I cannot get it out of there. I appreciate the help, thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 (edited) Hey would it just take one of those flat sheet metal clips on the inside? Precise- I don't know what they're called but C shaped to fit in a slot around the cable housing(top view). Kind of wave in it to hold tension(side view) ? I think thats what the old Dodge/Plymouths used. Edited February 14, 2014 by kdj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Here is a composite of the front of the drum with a left and right shot highlighting where the emergency cable comes through the rear-end. I see none of the bolts or the holes you mentioned. From this picture I don't really see where a clip would be, but I agree, it seems like something should hold it in. I'm going to do the rear brakes on mine soon as well, but not in time to answer these questions now. I've only had the rear drums off once, to check pad thickness and for leaks. I simply didn't study the set up or mess with it. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 Ok well I was able to get the rusted drivers side off today. Seems it was just not using the correct tool. I used a smaller vice grip on it and was able to finally get it to turn a little. then a little more. Eventually I was able to get a flat edge in there and tap it out little by little... It is in fact NOT threaded and it looks like it uses some kind of stopper that wedges itself in the backing plate as it passes through. I did however break one of the wheel cylinder bolts trying to replace one. Figured since it was all being torn down might as well put new rear breaks and hardware on so new shoes, new hardware and new cylinders.. I will take some pictures tomorrow to give you an idea how I pulled it out so it will make it a little easier when it comes time for you to do your rears Precise. Thanks for the ideas and helping me brain storm. Question can I get a replacement bolt from someplace like Canadian Tire, or Partsource? Do I need to get one from the dealer or something for hardware such as this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Either or should have some. Just bring the one good one to the store with you. I think they are m6 or m8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 When it came right down to it.. There is no point making photos of getting the cable out. Just make sure to get a vice-grip on it tight enough to turn it.. give it a couple turns. and then lightly keep tapping it out. Will need to wiggle a little and pry equally around all sides available. Note there is also a little rubber stopper around the drum-side of the emergency brake cable. It will pull through but you might want to use a small diameter awl in both side and help loosen it a bit.Pretty straight forward once you get it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Honestly, I expect mine to come right out, you saw how clean everything is. As for the bolt, pretty much any hardware store should have what you need, you just have to match up the diameter, thread pitch and length. Might want to consider going with stainless if available and not terribly expensive, the rust crap would drive me nuts. Might I recommend picking up a pair of calipers and a pitch gauge, I'm sure they would serve you well for a long time. B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Did you have trouble with yours? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 It went rather smooth. However I am or was as of today unable to get the driver-side cable back into the backing plate. In fact while trying the drive slipped and I smashed my hand full force with a rubber mallet, Hair line fracture for sure.... With that said hopefully tomorrow I will get that seated properly and get the u piece back connected to the hand brake handle. All that will be left then is bleeding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Ok DONE! I still need to adjust the emergency brakes a bit but they are in and the rear lines bled. I wasn't able to get the right-rear cable seated so it wil have to wait until my hand heals and I can get back under there to give it some good taps. Thanks for all the help I appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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