PrestonBurns Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Just discovered the feared yellow sludge and plan on doing an oil change tomorrow as well. Is 5w30 synthetic the recommended oil for r50's? I'm at 160,000 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhamelin819 Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 if you live in a normally warm climate, id recomend running a multi viscocity 10w30, thats what i run in my r50 durring summer months, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 I run a 10w30 in mine year round, as it sees temperatures between 20 and 115 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonBurns Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 (edited) 4 quarts, correct? Edited December 13, 2013 by PrestonBurns Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 VQs use 5 and 1/2 quarts, VGs 3 and 7/8 quarts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 (edited) Yellow sludge? Under your oil cap? It's just an emulsion of blow-by gases combined with condensation. It's commonplace in winter time, and it's below the oil cap because it's the highest (and coolest) part of the crankcase. Once a week, drive up to operating temperature and continue driving 20 minutes to boil off moisture and the problem should stop happening. As for oil, whatever 5W30 is on sale. 10W30 is an obsolete grade and serves no useful purpose today. Any filter will be fine too, although for colder temperatures you may want a filter with a silicone antidrainback valve which doesn't become brittle and hard like the nitrile ADBVs on cheaper filters do. Silicone ADBVs generally seal better too since they are more pliable. Silicone ADBVs are orange, so just open the box and look at the filter - you'll know. Change it after 5,000 miles. VQs also take 5.25 QTS "by the book" but I just dump in 5qt jug and it's at the full line. Edited December 14, 2013 by Towncivilian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 There are suggestions not to use full synthetic oil in older motors as the molecules are smaller & can cause oil leaks. I use a semi synthetic blend in mine (about the same limes). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Full synthetic has no adverse affects. Its been discussed till the horses skeleton has decomposed on this forum and others. But for any specific oil questions I would suggest Bob Is the Oil Guy forum. Sent from my Moto X! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 (edited) Oil grade depends on the weather where you live IMO, and change intervals depend on driving style IMO. As far as filters, anything but Fram extra guard, I'm leary of the cardboard endcaps in them. I prefer Valvoline since it goes on sale at the FLAPS by my house, Wix oil filters too. Edited December 14, 2013 by 92Path_68CJ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Sometimes the white bottle valvoline will be on sale for 9 dollars at the walmart here. I don't usually shop there, but that is a great deal here in Canada. I run 5w30 in all seasons. Never have any issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 I usually just put in 5W30...the $20 oil change. I've considered going to synthetic, just because I don't drive it as often...so only change it a couple times a year...at most. Is it a good idea at 225k? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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