Kyle94 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 So i've read around on a few of the threads, and am getting mixed suggestions, reviews, and results. My PLAN: 2"Rear AC coils (already acquired) 3" Rear Coil spacers (maybe less? not yet acquired) Extended rear shocks(not yet acquired) 1.5" Front strut spacers (bought, on their way) New struts (sadly no one offers lift struts, not yet bought) And finally front 2" AC coils (not yet bought) 33-35's, mild trimming. (waiting lift results... ) I know that i might need extended rear brake line(s), but what about camber? I want my tires to wear evenly and not look toe in or toe out, camber, etc. Some of you have gotten away with no camber bolts, some have not been so lucky, should i just buy them along with the other stuff? P.S., ill be buying each of the items a few things at a time each paycheck/every two weeks if everything goes according to plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Exbrit had issues with the camber bolts but, they worked out just fine for me. The guys are elongating one of the bolt holes on the strut to gain the adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 Wouldn't that cause issues with the hub/strut shifting? If you hit a decent sized bump or something... Not ideal, but we have lots of pot holes on our logging roads lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 (edited) That's potential for a whole lot of lift. I suggest an SFD. Especially if you're looking into 33s. You're looking at 3.5" of possible front lift, I suggest doing only the same in the rear if you feel you need it. 2" springs plus 1.5" spacers ought to do, but again that's at the upper end of the spectrum, and possibly worth just springing for the SFD. Edited November 25, 2013 by Karmann 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 I would also recommend the SFD considering the amount of lift you want. I have 1" strut spacers from NX4 and the 2" AC coils and my extreme CV angle on the passenger side is causing issues. Another .5" in the spacer and I would think you would have pretty major CV angles. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Wouldn't that cause issues with the hub/strut shifting? If you hit a decent sized bump or something... Not ideal, but we have lots of pot holes on our logging roads lol I slotted my upper strut holes and haven't seen them shift yet. If you torque the bolts to spec they shouldn't shift ever. I have had it aligned twice, and the camber remained exactly where it was initially set. A lot of racing dampers come with a slotted upper hole, and I would assume given the side loads on track racing that if they ever shifted then that idea would have been phased out long ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 the problem with and sfd is, its gonna cost 800$+, and i wont be able to afford that for a long time... it will one day happen, but for now, i just want something taller than the average minivan. lol I might just install my 1.5" strut spacers and rear springs, but i'd hate to do that, and then decide i want more and have to dissassemble the struts all over again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 (edited) I love my lift. I have 33s and when these tires wear out I'm going for 35s. Hopefully I'll run across some beadlocks before then as well. I wasn't satisfied with just 2" that the OME gave me. All said and done, I did waste time and money, since I bought rear springs and shocks (new) twice. I still have the front 2" lift springs and struts. Also, for the record, I'm one that never used or needed a camber kit. Edited November 25, 2013 by 96Pathfinder4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 the problem with and sfd is, its gonna cost 800$+, and i wont be able to afford that for a long time... it will one day happen, but for now, i just want something taller than the average minivan. lol I might just install my 1.5" strut spacers and rear springs, but i'd hate to do that, and then decide i want more and have to dissassemble the struts all over again... Maybe just order the springs for the front and skip the spacer entirely. A lot people on here put on spacers to compensate for the lack of a front lift, not necessarily stack them on top of an already level setup (AC). I'm thinking a 1" spacer might be in tolerance but the 1.5 may be too much. That's more designed for no lift springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 spacers were less than half the price of new front springs... im working my way up one step at at time. which is why i wanted coils AND spacers... but idk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 spacers were less than half the price of new front springs... im working my way up one step at at time. which is why i wanted coils AND spacers... but idk I've seen this story with a bronco before. Just save up for the springs and do it right the first time. Trust me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 i already bought spacers, so one way or another they are going on. lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 i already bought spacers, so one way or another they are going on. lol. Well maybe some manual hubs will help quell the CV angles, I believe you have those already (?) So this could be an interesting experiment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 yeah i already have manual lockers. i dont see why it would make too much of a difference. i mean some have the 2" ac coils with a 1" spacers... mine is just .5" more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Those that do run the AC coils and spacers. Usually didnt put the spacers in until a few months later when the coils would settle. Those that did put them in right off the bat. Usually have had some sort of CV angle issue. Which was resolved by removing the spacer until the springs had some time to settle down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 the problem with and sfd is, its gonna cost 800$+, and i wont be able to afford that for a long time... it will one day happen, but for now, i just want something taller than the average minivan. lol I might just install my 1.5" strut spacers and rear springs, but i'd hate to do that, and then decide i want more and have to dissassemble the struts all over again... If the strut spacers are top mount (and they should be), then you don't have to take the strut apart. You just have to disconnect it from the steering knuckle and the strut tower/engine bay, drop the strut out, press out the old studs from the strut mount, and put the strut back in with longer bolts and the spacer. It should only take about 2-3 hours since you don't have to screw around with spring compressors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Those that do run the AC coils and spacers. Usually didnt put the spacers in until a few months later when the coils would settle. Those that did put them in right off the bat. Usually have had some sort of CV angle issue. Which was resolved by removing the spacer until the springs had some time to settle down. I have had my AC springs in for over a year and the passenger side still has issues. Albeit, not nearly the issues it had before the springs settled, but the cv binding is still there. If I add 180 pounds to the passenger side to even out the weight of the driver, then the truck is drive-able with the hubs locked, but will still bind in 4wd when the gas is pressed fairly hard. It works in a pinch, but I will not wheel it this way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beatup96 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 After doing the AC 2" all around with the AC 1" strut spacers (they advertise as giving you 1 1/2") , I'd have to say "good luck" in fitting 35's up front . 33's would be do-able but you'll be doing some trimming for sure , my 32's would have ripped off the mud flaps had I not removed them . Turning radius in forward gear is OK with the 3.75 backspace wheels , but in reverse it's still an issue with rubbing at about 1/2 lock . In the rear , going with 2" coils and 3" spacers for a total of 5" I think you'll probably have to add the panhard drop bracket or the rear axle may not be centered correctly left to right . You may also be looking at adjustable (longer) control arms to center the wheels in the wheel wells , mine are a bit forward from stock , better now that all the bushings are new but still a bit off center . I'm no mechanic , but I also wonder about driveshaft angle being a problem at 5" in the rear without a SFD . Now that my coils have settled a bit I'm considering a 1" spacer in the rear , from just eyeballing it I think it may work but I don't think I could go any higher . This is what you get from the 2" AC with the AC spacers and 32's on a '96 XE..... I also had trouble with the passenger side CV axle binding after installing a new EMPI part , switching it to a NAPA part on the passenger side cured it . This is the angle it's at , no problems so far but I haven't pushed it much yet..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 Fleurys is who I bought them from, and he said you have to disassemble the strut topa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 http://www.4x4design.com/Pathfinder_R50_96-04.php They "install on top of the struts". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 Yeah but to install the new studs... Idk. That's just what I was told. Lol. From Steve. Either way I'll just be doing the rear springs and front coils for now. Appears the 2" spring give a lot of lift looking at other peoples trucks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stioc Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 (edited) I love my lift. I have 33s and when these tires wear out I'm going for 35s. Oh man, please don't! Proportionally your truck looks so good right now...I'm never a fan of over doing it unless there's a real reason behind it. Funny story, I did a trail run with a Jeep XJ on 38s he was planning to go to 40s next. First uphill obstacle of the day (his very first 'offroad event') - the tires trashed the fenders and the engine didn't have the power to go up hill. He ended up skipping most of the optional harder bypasses. At the end of the event he was asking if 33s would be a good setup for him. Nice guy too. There's something to be said about a well proportioned truck and for me on the R50 Pathfinder a 2-4" lift with 33s looks right - and works well. Anything more looks a bit over done, but to each his own Here's mine with the lowly 32" tires and a lowly AC lift (no spacers) but it can do technical trails with full axle tuck (after trimming the fenders several times). I may add the NX4 1" (or machine it down to .75") spacer that's sitting in the garage if I add a bumper/winch etc. In an ideal world I would have another inch of lift and 33s but I don't want to start breaking CVs and the setup I have actually suits my needs both on and off road. Edited November 25, 2013 by stioc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stioc Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 (edited) Oh here's one of my neighbor's XJ on 38s that works well (correct gearing, full spools on both axles, sitting on 38s) but is usually trailered to the events unless closeby, my truck looks like a sedan next to it LOL Edited November 25, 2013 by stioc 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 I agree with Stioc. Mine kept up really well with the guys on the rocks with a "lowly" AC 2" lift rolling on 31's. The tire/wheel/lift combination looked proportionate. I am in the process of neutering my R50 back to stock (minus lift .. think I'll keep that) and I'm starting to miss the look. I just want Vajay to last another eleven years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 Maybe one day my truck can be cool like Andrews. 01silvapathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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