Nissanland Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 I get the how to part of doing a front lift on these pathys, what I don't know is it better to replace the torsion bar's first or the uca/bushings. I have looked all through here and haven't been able to find out if it's better to do the upgrades in either order, just how to...I know it may sound stupid, but I just want to get the job done in the simplest way as time is always against me. Maybe I should bribe some Puget sound ares members for some magic..LOL meanwhile just laugh and dish me out some good ol' fashion sound advice.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Ok, from what I understand (haven't done them) the lower control arm bushings are a PITA, but generally last a while so maybe yours doesn't need it? The UCA bushings seem to wear out faster, but are generally easier to do, especially if you go with aftermarkey poly bushings. Basically jack it up until the wheel is light/off, undo the two bolts and wrestle the assembly loose. You may have to unbolt the upper ball joint to press/burn out the bushings, but I don't know. I'm a long way from stock any more. The poly bushings can be pulled in and out... Regardless, the torsion bars generally don't require replacing, just re-indexing, usually only 1-2 splines and that should be independent from both jobs other than jacking it up... Did that help? LOL B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Well....I have the new heavy duty torsion bars and the new upper control arms, bushings, and new shocks. I was hoping to find out if it were better to get the torsion bar's swap done before or after. My line of thinking is if there was a better order of things it might go easier/faster. I'm sure it's not a big deal. But I also have this saying ( the only stupid question is the one that you didn't ask ) as you know, I'm only home couple days a month so I have to be planned out to get anything accomplished since I'm doing all the work myself in the driveway. ( can't get into the garage, it's full of tools and toys) thx though no education is ever waisted, but it is earned..LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Sway Away bars (I'm assuming that is what he got) are labled LH and RH 1/3 of the way up the shaft. B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Sway Away bars (I'm assuming that is what he got) are labled LH and RH 1/3 of the way up the shaft. B It's been a few years since I've had my Sway Away, but I don't recall. You're probably right though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 (edited) I don't know, the only bars I have ever bought were the Jim Connor Racing two stage bars I had in my old hardbody. But the one's in my PF now are marked on the rear end of each bar. He bought the package 4x4 parts sells he told me. Edited November 1, 2013 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Thank you guys it diff helps. The torsion bars are marked on the end L&R respectively. SO I'm guessing that I would be time ahead with torsion first. Makes sense to get the hardest part first, I have a full array of Lucas oil product's from fuel treatment to the thickest grease known to man. Truck stops do get me some benefits.LOL anything bad news for the products? What I thought I'd try is to mark/scribe both ends of the bars and then copy the mark to new bars, this way I'd have a good idea of where the re-index points would be. Bad idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Precise1 is there a reason I can't PM you or why I can't edit MY post any more...says you can't get PM from me..? I don't think I attended you did I.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Offended you...see I can't fix mistakes or add information. Grrr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Sorry Bud, my box was full for a bit but I cleared some room. You can PM me now... As for editing, there is a 10 minute rule due to asshats editing things long past and confusing issues. I know it isn't convenient, but it is necessary. It's been a few years since I've had my Sway Away, but I don't recall. You're probably right though. No probably about it. I just walked out and looked. Easy, as they aren't installed yet... What I thought I'd try is to mark/scribe both ends of the bars and then copy the mark to new bars, this way I'd have a good idea of where the re-index points would be. Bad idea? That is good to start, but the new (and heavier) bars shouldn't take as much twist to bring things up so maybe one spline advanced? This is where it all becomes subjective... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Shouldn't the tension rods bushings get changed at same time as control arms. I think it would be better time and insurance. Cheap enough to do and the alignment would last longer. I don't know but think that they're thr original bushings. Not loose though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Well, yes and no. They go to the lower control arm, not the upper, so it is an independent task. Also, it is best to do it when the vehicle is resting on the tire to keep things positioned. Yes, I will bet that yours are probably original, and that they are probably in need of changing. You can't tell from looking without disassembling, but they take a lot of abose and AFAIC they should be a 60k mile maintenence item. There are different thoughts on the matter, but I prefer the poly bushings since they take so much load/abuse. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 This was one side on my truck and they looked fine before I took it apart, pictured with the new poly ones: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 Yea...I think I will be ordering those for the ever increasing to be done list..LOL it never ends does it..? BUT it should be like a new truck/suv when I get the work completed..just might take me another 10years to do it..but hey that's half the fun isn't it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 Btw..does those come in Red instead of blue? All the poly I've been getting are red. Just curious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Those are made by Moog, I think someone said they had them by Energy Suspension and those usually come in red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Mine are from Energy Suspension and they are black, but I believe red is also available. If you haven't used him yet, contact Steevo over at Rugged Rocks and see what he has to say (fair prices too). Yea...I think I will be ordering those for the ever increasing to be done list..LOL it never ends does it..? BUT it should be like a new truck/suv when I get the work completed. Yeah, it seems that way sometimes, but you are right it will be in great shape at a fraction of the cost of a new/comparable vehicle. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 Yea tell me about it. The 04 titan was $35000 and that was almost 10 yrs ago, I can't even imagine what it would be for a fully loaded LE model titan today. Glad ours is paid for. I will check out rugged rocks. I have his site bookmarked already. I just want to keep everything uniform. Black would be okay though. Just not blue,purple,orange LOL One day I will need to get a list together with all the stuff that I have purchased and or plan to get done. It just might be a bit scary though. BUT SO VERY FUN.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 I'm pretty sure most WD21s were between $35-40k new! I paid $3,200 of mine a few years ago, and have probably put that much more into it in repairs, upgrades and modifications. I don't regret it for an instant... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 I don't regret that I bought it. I figure that it will cost me between 4-6k in upgrades and repairs. I paid 2k for it. So for a a real good trail rig and not cost me 40k + Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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