mrkim_ Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Hi guys, I went off roading today and my right CV Shaft just snapped in half!! So, now I have to get new CV Shaft and I need recommendations. I was looking at Rock auto.com like Cardone Select, EMPI and Surtrack. Out of these three which would you recommend? Any other good brands out there other than listed above? I want the new CV Shafts to last long as I really want to keep this vehicle for long time. I will be getting two CV Shafts; might as well change the other one. Money is not the issue so feel free to leave me suggestions!! Thanks for your help guys!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrkim_ Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Here is the picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 If money is not an issue get new shafts from Nissan. My second suggestion would be to have a set of OE shafts pulled at a wrecking yards, then rebuild those with Rockford thermoplastic boots. Is your truck lifted? Maybe think about a set of manual hubs which can help with cv longevity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrkim_ Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 The truck is lifted and the manual warn hub is already installed. I decided not to go with nissan's OEM parts because I think their parts are not strong enough for off roading. I want to get stronger metal CV where it will not break on me. I only had this car since this Feb, 2013 and the CV shafts break on me kinda tells me that the nissan is not using the right strength metal. A mean, the trail I went today was just super easy up and down and some bumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) I'm currently running Napa shafts, which say Cardone right on the box, I've been wheeling quite a bit and can't complain. If I had more time I would of done the Rockford boots. I think the Nissan shafts are plenty strong, and the most reliable. I just am cheap. Edited June 10, 2013 by Trogdor636 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrkim_ Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) To be honest, I could go to the nissan and pay for what they sell it for but, they are always over priced. I don't think I really want to buy overpriced item where I can get the same item for less money. For example, the strut boots for the front to replace is around $18 ea. in 4x4 parts and if I go to nissan dealer for their price is $45 ea. Yes, OEM are good if my car was less than 5~7 yeras old but now its getting to almost 10 years since the car was assembled I don't think its worth for me to spend that much of overpriced item. Speaking of Rockford boots how much those go for in the market? Edited June 10, 2013 by mrkim_ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 The truck is lifted and the manual warn hub is already installed. I decided not to go with nissan's OEM parts because I think their parts are not strong enough for off roading. I want to get stronger metal CV where it will not break on me. I only had this car since this Feb, 2013 and the CV shafts break on me kinda tells me that the nissan is not using the right strength metal. A mean, the trail I went today was just super easy up and down and some bumps. They are expensive, unfortunately there is not a stronger alternative. The only new units are the cardone's. some members have had success with these, some (myself included) have not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) The truck is lifted and the manual warn hub is already installed. I decided not to go with nissan's OEM parts because I think their parts are not strong enough for off roading. I want to get stronger metal CV where it will not break on me. I only had this car since this Feb, 2013 and the CV shafts break on me kinda tells me that the nissan is not using the right strength metal. A mean, the trail I went today was just super easy up and down and some bumps. To be honest mrkim, The Nissan shafts as I've ben told by many members AND shops are very strong and meant to last. If the truck had not been lifted they would have probably lasted you another 5-10 years. They are not meant to work at the angles they currently sit at. Keep in mind that even a cardone migh not last you as long at the shaft angles you currently have. My halfshaf failed...well, actually no, I failed my halfshaft when I lifted the truck. (The inboard boot pulled away from its groove and started spewing grease all over my running gear) the CV joint is actually fine, it is the clamp and boot that failed. I tried replacing my passenger-side shaft with six different shafts of those, four different brands (cardone was the most expensive it tried), and two, different year shafts (1997 & 1998, as the truck was build in early 97 but was sold as a 98) All of them binded while the wheel was hanging AND with the truck on the ground but making left turns. It looked into replacing with a Nissan but at $650/shaft...no way! Fleurys was kind enough to let me try the spacers he made for his truck. I used it with my stock halfshaft and it binded so, I am still running my OEM shaft and have decided to remove my 1" NX4 spacers to decrease the half-shaft angle and re-build the inboard joint of my halfshaft (I already have the boot, grase and clamps). Good luck. I hope you don't have the same problems I did. Most people here never had such problems...so, if cost is not an issue for you it might just be the best option instead of taking a chance at them not fitting properly. Hopefully it is just my Canadian Pathy and not all Canadian Pathies... Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I got my boot replacements for $22.00 at Lordco. Could be cheaper if you work at a machine or auto shop. (read: if you have an account) Edited June 10, 2013 by Bluewulf73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgallant Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Just to add the pic would not load for me so I can not see if it was the shaft or joint that failed. But regardless of the lift the shaft itself should not break on a basic trail, now if you are climbing rocks, playing in mud or just plain going warp speed maybe. But the failure point is generally the joint. You are not going to get a CV that is much stronger than what Nissan used, nor should you need one as far as shaft strength is concerned. If you have a spring based lift with spacers and money is no object convert to a SFD and get rid of the bad angles. The springs only lift is going keep giving you problems with CV joints because of the angles, on road is not too bad. Once you get off road it will be much worse. If you feel you can get away with the lift you should buy a spare set of CV's and keep the tools and CV 's with you when you are off road. They are pain to swap on the trail side but you can do it, and beats the cost of tow from nowhere to home after walking to cellphone reception. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 The only time I have seen CVs break is when that particular wheel is spinning at speed then hits the ground or gains traction. But even then, on most pathfinders it doesn't break but bends the tie rods into pretzels. One way to help eliminate that is to get a locker for the front. Either a air locker or lunch box locker (Lokka for example.). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrkim_ Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 To be honest mrkim, The Nissan shafts as I've ben told by many members AND shops are very strong and meant to last. If the truck had not been lifted they would have probably lasted you another 5-10 years. They are not meant to work at the angles they currently sit at. Keep in mind that even a cardone migh not last you as long at the shaft angles you currently have. My halfshaf failed...well, actually no, I failed my halfshaft when I lifted the truck. (The inboard boot pulled away from its groove and started spewing grease all over my running gear) the CV joint is actually fine, it is the clamp and boot that failed. I tried replacing my passenger-side shaft with six different shafts of those, four different brands (cardone was the most expensive it tried), and two, different year shafts (1997 & 1998, as the truck was build in early 97 but was sold as a 98) All of them binded while the wheel was hanging AND with the truck on the ground but making left turns. It looked into replacing with a Nissan but at $650/shaft...no way! Fleurys was kind enough to let me try the spacers he made for his truck. I used it with my stock halfshaft and it binded so, I am still running my OEM shaft and have decided to remove my 1" NX4 spacers to decrease the half-shaft angle and re-build the inboard joint of my halfshaft (I already have the boot, grase and clamps). Good luck. I hope you don't have the same problems I did. Most people here never had such problems...so, if cost is not an issue for you it might just be the best option instead of taking a chance at them not fitting properly. Hopefully it is just my Canadian Pathy and not all Canadian Pathies... Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I got my boot replacements for $22.00 at Lordco. Could be cheaper if you work at a machine or auto shop. (read: if you have an account) Wow.... $650??? damm... yours is 1998 pathfinder and if its costs that much then my car will most likely cost more!! No way I am spending that much money. Well my CV's middle rod from inner shaft and outer shaft legit snapped in half so I have to replace it. Since I have failed to upload the picture; clearly I don't know how to upload the picture on this site... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 If the center shaft of the axle snapped, it was likely due to a manufacturing defect in the metal on that particular axle, not indicative of the overall quality of either Nissan or aftermarket axles. It's far more likely to break the CV joints than the axleshaft itself, because the metal (especially the inner CV joint) is thinner. A couple of months ago, I discovered that not all R50 CV axles are created equal. When I had replaced a CV axle due to a partially split outer CV boot, I purchased a new axle from rockauto and after installation, it was binding while in 4WD. I then purchased a CV axle from my local auto parts store, and it worked just fine. I opened up the grease caps of the original CV axle and the CV axle I got from rockauto, and found that the walls of the inner CV socket and the roller bearings were different sizes between the two joints. The rockauto joint has smaller bearings and thicker walls, and the original joint has larger bearings and thinner walls. The thicker walls/smaller bearings don't allow the joint to bend as acutely as the thinner walls/larger bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrkim_ Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 If the center shaft of the axle snapped, it was likely due to a manufacturing defect in the metal on that particular axle, not indicative of the overall quality of either Nissan or aftermarket axles. It's far more likely to break the CV joints than the axleshaft itself, because the metal (especially the inner CV joint) is thinner. A couple of months ago, I discovered that not all R50 CV axles are created equal. When I had replaced a CV axle due to a partially split outer CV boot, I purchased a new axle from rockauto and after installation, it was binding while in 4WD. I then purchased a CV axle from my local auto parts store, and it worked just fine. I opened up the grease caps of the original CV axle and the CV axle I got from rockauto, and found that the walls of the inner CV socket and the roller bearings were different sizes between the two joints. The rockauto joint has smaller bearings and thicker walls, and the original joint has larger bearings and thinner walls. The thicker walls/smaller bearings don't allow the joint to bend as acutely as the thinner walls/larger bearings. Which CV manufacture did you buy from Rock auto? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Actually, what is the manufacturer name of the halfshaft that worked? the one you bought at your local autoparts store? I think that might be the one I need as the other six I tried did not work. ( I hope it is none of the ones I already tried...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Wow.... $650??? damm... yours is 1998 pathfinder and if its costs that much then my car will most likely cost more!! No way I am spending that much money. Well my CV's middle rod from inner shaft and outer shaft legit snapped in half so I have to replace it. Since I have failed to upload the picture; clearly I don't know how to upload the picture on this site... You need to upload your photos to an online photo and video site like PICASA or Photobucket ( I use PB and like it) FB might work too... then copy the photo's address and paste directly on to your active reply. More detailed instructions HERE As stated above, mid-shaft breaks are rare unless there is an actual manufacturer's defect or massive torque is applied to the shaft while trying to stop it from spinning very suddenly. Most of the time, the tie rods (much thinner) bends way before anything like that can happen...weird. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) Did not work: Cardone 60-6185 Worked: MasterPro® Select CV - CV Axle Shaft; Part # NI8185 Edited June 10, 2013 by XPLORx4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Did not work: Cardone 60-6185 Worked: MasterPro® Select CV - CV Axle Shaft; Part # NI8185 Thanks a million Xporx4!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrkim_ Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 To be honest mrkim, The Nissan shafts as I've ben told by many members AND shops are very strong and meant to last. If the truck had not been lifted they would have probably lasted you another 5-10 years. They are not meant to work at the angles they currently sit at. Keep in mind that even a cardone migh not last you as long at the shaft angles you currently have. My halfshaf failed...well, actually no, I failed my halfshaft when I lifted the truck. (The inboard boot pulled away from its groove and started spewing grease all over my running gear) the CV joint is actually fine, it is the clamp and boot that failed. I tried replacing my passenger-side shaft with six different shafts of those, four different brands (cardone was the most expensive it tried), and two, different year shafts (1997 & 1998, as the truck was build in early 97 but was sold as a 98) All of them binded while the wheel was hanging AND with the truck on the ground but making left turns. It looked into replacing with a Nissan but at $650/shaft...no way! Fleurys was kind enough to let me try the spacers he made for his truck. I used it with my stock halfshaft and it binded so, I am still running my OEM shaft and have decided to remove my 1" NX4 spacers to decrease the half-shaft angle and re-build the inboard joint of my halfshaft (I already have the boot, grase and clamps). Good luck. I hope you don't have the same problems I did. Most people here never had such problems...so, if cost is not an issue for you it might just be the best option instead of taking a chance at them not fitting properly. Hopefully it is just my Canadian Pathy and not all Canadian Pathies... Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I got my boot replacements for $22.00 at Lordco. Could be cheaper if you work at a machine or auto shop. (read: if you have an account) so... if the CV is not meant to run on that angle, am I be able to lower the differential so goes back to original angle? or is that like SFD? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Thats a SFD Sent from smert fone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrkim_ Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 Here is that picture I failed to post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 from the corrosion it looks like its been cracked for a while. a new brake would be all shiny. Just to be clear did you have that wheel up in the air with your foot on the right pedal and it suddenly came down? that would be a massive amount of torque suddenly applied the the shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrkim_ Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 from the corrosion it looks like its been cracked for a while. a new brake would be all shiny. Just to be clear did you have that wheel up in the air with your foot on the right pedal and it suddenly came down? that would be a massive amount of torque suddenly applied the the shaft. That makes more sense... My car did came down suddenly. And cracked CV would makes sense too... before the break in half Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 from the corrosion it looks like its been cracked for a while. a new brake would be all shiny. Just to be clear did you have that wheel up in the air with your foot on the right pedal and it suddenly came down? that would be a massive amount of torque suddenly applied the the shaft. The outer tie rod would give before the shaft (like mine) .. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=0hU2Oug4bSQ The result .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 The outer tie rod would give before the shaft (like mine) .. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=0hU2Oug4bSQ The result .. still amazes me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 makes me think i should pick up a spare tie rod end.....are they same same left/ right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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