Darek Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 I think that I should change rear suspension because of following reasons: - rear is sagging (getting down) when trunk is loaded or even one person is sitting in the back - rear jumps and shakes on bumpy roads - when trunk is loaded and someone is sitting in the back then it jumps very hard, with strong plunk (clunk?) sound. It is so hard that the person at the back can hit ceiling with his head. - shocks are fully rusted. Do I have to install both new shocks and springs or just shocks? I can buy pair of KYB Gas a Just shocks 553303 for about 170$ and pair of Ironman springs NISS034B for about 163$. Maybe you can advice me other manufacturers. I am going to drive this car for about 5 years more and I am not planning any serious off-roading, just adventure trails and some camping. Second question is if I should do it by myself or take it to a shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoesandsocks Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 just do it all at once that way u can just do it and forget now i will say the iron man springs are like the lowest rate springs by far so even though u will lift your truck it may not feel as solid i woould either go with ome or the 4x4 parts .5 meduim duty for that or i would just get the air lift helper kit for 80 bucks then u can adjust how stiff u want the rear to be just my opinon though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 (edited) Remember if you install lift springs in the rear. But leave the front stock. You will have have high amount of rake. If you want to keep it more stock height. Then get the higher rate monroe coils for the rear and replace the shocks. Easy to do. Just need a good jack, jack stands and time. Extra pair of hands helps out a lot too. Edit: Link to pic with stock fronts and AC rear coils. To show amount of rake: masterryan's current situation. Edited June 4, 2013 by Rebelord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 I dont't like this rake effect. So I think I could buy Ironman springs for front and rear and KYB shocks for rear. What kind of strut should i take for front? Will these spprings be safe for Cv joint and what about top-out issue? Are there any KYB springs for R50, because my mechanic proposed me KYB springs and I can't find it at KYB cataloge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 We didn't come across any KYB springs when we were looking. We went with the OME springs, KYB struts and Rancho shocks: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33480-2k-qx4-lift/ It's been over a year now with no issues. No sag, no top out, camber is adequate and we have had no issues with the CV angle. Even though the 3.3 is a little under powered we tow with it, ~1,300lb Coleman popup or our camp trailer at ~700lb and it does just fine. Day 1: PreLift & Tires Post Lift & Tires There is still a little rake to it unloaded but once packed it is pretty much what we wanted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mastersryan Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Yeah I have the huge rake currently till I can put my front lift on the truck. But AC sells the .5 springs also the ones on my truck are the 2" lift coils. But to answer your question the problem is most likely the coils in the rear. My truck was saggy and hitting the bumpstops over every little bump in the road. I replaced the shocks and the problem remained. Then I went with the coils, no more problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 But to answer your question the problem is most likely the coils in the rear. My truck was saggy and hitting the bumpstops over every little bump in the road. I replaced the shocks and the problem remained. Then I went with the coils, no more problem. Same here. I cured my "saggy ass" with the AC 2" kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoesandsocks Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 i honestly cannot recomend the ironman springs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 i honestly cannot recomend the ironman springs Well, you were going for lift with those, right? I think the Darek just wants to regain the sagging issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 IIRC Shoesandsocks didnt like them because they are a soft spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 IIRC Shoesandsocks didnt like them because they are a soft spring. Your recollection is most probably better than mine so, we'll go with yours. Ah-hem .. Ironman springs are a no-no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Doesnt mean they are bad springs. Heck those are the ones I am going with for my lift. If they ride like stock. Thats fine with me. My truck already rides pretty stiff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoesandsocks Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 they are softer than stock but a hell of a lot taller they settle wayyyyy to much at least in the vq powered pathy i have to say not my favorite but to the op the ironman springs come from australia since u would be having them imported from there why not do the king springs that all the Aussies use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 (edited) Ironman springs are available in the states by a few vendors. Which reduces the cost substantially. Just that shipments to the states are only every quarter or so. So once stock is gone. Its gone for awhile. I have looked into the King Springs personally. Even called King Springs in AUS to ask if they had a international supplier. Only way is to buy them from a supplier in AUS that will ship em to the US. Which I found a few. But the springs are about $315 AUS a set, plus about $200 AUS shipping to the US. Plus the time to wait for them. 2-6 weeks shipping time. Overall it isnt to much more than OME form some suppliers here in the states. But King did say any warranty issues would be tough to handle and would be case by case only. But, knowing me. I may just be the guinea pig to do it. As I tend to like to do things different. Edited June 7, 2013 by Rebelord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Couldnt edit above in time. I stand corrected. I was wrong on prices, found email. Its about $280 for the set. Plus about another $280 for shipping. So its closer to $560 for the Kings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Hey Darek, If you are planning on keeping the truck for another 5 years, then definitely do the whole suspension, not just the rear. Figure 5 years at around 10-20,000 km/year you would be putting 50-100,000 km on the truck. Life expectancy of shocks and struts is around 80,000 km so you'll be getting a good amount of use from them. Not sure about Poland but here unless I sell the truck as a heap (to trash) It would need a safety inspection and you would have to check/change the shocks then anyway. You dont have to get a lift. You could go for stock springs and KYB struts/shocks or whatever other brand is sold where you are. If you want the rear to take a bit more weight, you could use the helper air springs (I think there is a pair for sale in the for sale section right now.) It is a safety issue. If the rear is loose, you could easily lose control of the truck. I'hve seen a truck's rear bounce around in winter conditions and the lightness of the truck in the rear made the guy lose control. If at any time you drive family and kids in your vehicle, you owe it to yourself and your truck to get new shocks and struts. keep in mind though If you do get lift springs definitely do them all at once. The rear you could do yourself, very easily. The front is much more involved but could still be done by a home mechanic provided he/she has the right tools. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted June 7, 2013 Author Share Posted June 7, 2013 Thank you guys for all responses. I prefere safety first and smooth ride as I have 4-month old daughter and I don't want her to be shaken too much in the car I can see that you don't like the Ironman springs, but what are the alternatives? OME is too expensive for me. Bluewulf73 suggest to stay with stock springs, but do you mean a new stock springs old my old ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoesandsocks Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 derek how much is shipping from autralia there are lots available options in that regard try to go on pcoa and see what the aussie members say Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Hey Darek, If you don't want/need a lift, then get new OEM springs. Although, now that I think about it, the Ironman Springs might be cheaper for you and I think around the same comfort level as the Original Equipment springs so if you can get them cheaper, it might be worth your while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patqx4 Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Are the ironmans really softer than stock springs? the camel4x4 site says the back are "Additional Weight up to 440lb" And the front say "Additional Weight up to 110lb" Doesn't this mean that they are stiffer than oem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted June 7, 2013 Author Share Posted June 7, 2013 I almost decided to replace shocks first and if rear is still jumping then to replace springs. I am reading FSM and it is written that shock bolts sholud be replaced too. Are they reguar bolts or something special and should be bought at dealer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stioc Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 No need to replace the shock bolts unless they're rusted. Not sure if it's already been mentioned but you can also use the AirLift 1000 airbags if you don't want a lift but just load carrying ability without sagging the rear. My truck had them and I once put about 400lbs of stuff in it with about 10psi air in the airbags and the rear sat perfectly level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Are the ironmans really softer than stock springs? the camel4x4 site says the back are "Additional Weight up to 440lb" And the front say "Additional Weight up to 110lb" Doesn't this mean that they are stiffer than oem? I don't have personal experience with the Ironman springs. I don't think they are softer that the OEM, They are softer incomparison to the OME and AC but everywhere I've read, they are comparable to the OEM in weight-carrying ability and comfort. (FYI - all of the comments I've read about them are "seat of the pant" coments so one has to take things with a grain of salt) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 I almost decided to replace shocks first and if rear is still jumping then to replace springs. I am reading FSM and it is written that shock bolts sholud be replaced too. Are they reguar bolts or something special and should be bought at dealer? You can just replace just your shocks. They will give you the most improvement for the money, and the springs should have enough life in them to give you a comfortable ride. As said in a couple of previous posts, you could use the airlift/helper springs if new shocks are not enough of a change. They are around $100-$200 for the rear only. (This would give you adjustability though) However if you've have a high-mileage vehicle, and you load the rear of the vehicle very heavily on a regular basis, (weakens springs earlier) then the recommendation would be to change everything at once so spring and shock-rates are comparable and you don't have to get into the work more than once. Like you said, you are going to keep this for another five years... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgallant Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Just to add bad shocks and springs, and offroad travel will accelerate the wear in the trailing arms as well. As I found out the hard way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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