Just bought a 94, have small issues and need help

[Mustangfreak]

Ok so I just bought a 94 and here's the list of things I want fixed and other questions. The truck has 245k and is an automatic.

 

How can I tell when the timing belt was changed?

When I turn on the engine and shut it off there is a sound by the antenna (which is gone ) do these trucks have an auto antenna?

My pathfinder is getting terrible mpg's. 40 miles ate up a quarter of a tank and I was being easy. What can I do to increase the mpg?

The parking break is inop. Is this cheap to fix the whole setup?

 

 

Any other tips for a pathfinder noob is welcome. The truck doesn't have major rust issues, the trams shifts smooth for having 245k and over all the only complaint is the mpg's.

[Trogdor636]

You can't tell unless you can find a sticker/note from the previous owner.Even if you pop the upper timing cover off and the belt looks good, Id change it. Belt breaks and you most likely will bend valves.

Some did have a auto antenna. The whole thing is gone or just the mast?

These are not known for getting good MPG's. First thing (besides a basic tuneup) would be to check your codes. There is a how to in this section somewhere.

Your parking brake could be anything from broken wire, to just needing adjustment, so hard to say.

Edited May 30, 2013 by Trogdor636

[Precise1]

x2 on the timing belt. No maintenance records? Can you ask the previous owner? FYI the 94 recommended change interval is every 105k miles so IF that was followed, you have a long way to go yet.

 

The 'How To' to check the ECU for codes is in the Garage/How To section and is pretty easy. The 2 main culprits for poor mileage would be the O2 sensor and the coolant temp sensor for the ECU. I don't think they will throw codes but both can be checked with an OHM meter. They may read fine but be stuck or go out of range when hot so test then as well. Both are fairly easy to change.

 

The parking brake has an adjustment underneath where the cable from the handle holds the cable to both brakes. Do you have rear disk or drum. If disk, I can't help, if drum, remove the drums (2 6mm jacking bolts IIRC) to make sure the pads are clean, in good shape, etc, reinstall the drums and adjust the brakes appropriately, test and adjust at the cable juncture if still required. If you are out of adjustment, your cable is stretched and needs replacement (like mine).

 

Do yourself a favor and go to the Garage section. Pinned at the top is a thread about Factory Service Manuals. Follow the links and download your own free copy, it can be a big help...

 

B

[Slartibartfast]

Calculate your mileage next time you fill up to give you a reference point. Highest mine's ever given me was 19mpg, and that was all highway driving. I usually see 15-16 city. Tune it up, re-do the vacuum lines, check sensors, etc if it's much below that.

 

Mine made that same noise when I got it, the power antenna mast was still there but stuck, and the motor at the bottom was just spinning itself around. I bought a cheap replacement mast off Fleabay and put it back together, and it's worked since. It's sort of a bugger to get to (I pulled the wheel off and went in through the bottom). Or you can just lop off the powered bit, throw a whippy antenna on there, and call it done, but I kind of like watching the power antenna work.

 

My parking brake (disk) didn't do squat, so I adjusted the cable. I think the parking brake shoes themselves are worn; even after adjustment it barely holds the truck on a slope. One of these days it'll bug me enough to actually do something about it.

 

And that's one old auto trans! How's the fluid look?

[Mustangfreak]

How do I check the ATF fluid?? I can't find the darn dipstick at all lol.

 

I've gone through a 1/4 tank of gas (3/4 to 1/2) and I've driven about 50 miles. Granted the past 20 of those have been easy and the gauges falls slower. I'll have to see how it is with normal driving (I'm used to driving like a bat out of hell with the Mustang and all lol)

 

I crawled under the truck yesterday, and saw that it doesnt have big rust issues (whew). The parking brake cable going to the drums is ok on the drivers side, but has snapped on the pass side. I did however notice while going under, that on the bottom of the body, below the pass rear door, it has a piece of metal welded to the body and thats the only rust spot on the body. Makes me think that the original body part there rusted away.

[vagabond]

I wouldn't believe the gauge until I'd run a mileage test, mine goes from full to 1/4 very fast then from 1/4 to empty it goes forever.

When mines at 1/4 tank I still have a little over a half a tank

[gv280z]

My first 1/4 tank usually gets me about 60 miles or so. There are only about a gazillion things that could be affecting your mileage: Tires under inflated, restrictive air cleaner (recommend drop in K&N by default, always) restrictive exhaust (mine is all stock btw) O2 sensor, your over drive is disengaged, old / bad cap and rotor / plug wires, spark plugs (NGK V-Power or Super G or platinum) old / dirty fuel filter under the hood, these are easy to change, dirty throttle body, dirty mass airflow sensor, get a can of MAF cleaner and spray inside the air filter box. Try running some really good gas i.e. Chevron / Shell premium and bottle or two of some Sea Foam or Lucas tune up in a bottle, or some STP fuel treatment. Look into getting a Gunk 3 step process performed at your local lube n tune shop.

 

If the previous owner ever had any timing belt change and it was at a reputable place there should be a sticker / lable thing showing mileage performed at when you raise the hood, it'll be there on the front of the frame engine compartment, somewhere near the hood catch / release.

 

This is just part of the process of you and your new ride getting to know each other, it'll take some time.

[Slartibartfast]

The ATF dipstick is on the passenger's side, behind the valve cover. I dunno why they put it there, it's a PITA to pour fluid into!

 

These have two big places where they rot out. One is below the rear seats, where there's a lousy seam that traps moisture. Mine had a hole about big enough to put a cat through that I didn't discover until I thumped on it a bit. The other is the rear frame above the axle. I thought mine was okay when we got it, until I pulled a wheel off and hit it with a screwdriver. Hopefully yours is solid, it seems like more of a salt state issue (mine was from NY and had spent time in ID). There's a frame rust repair thread that'll give you examples of what to look for. Either way, can't hurt to wash out the frame rails. I suspect mine had a good cubic foot of dirt in there.

 

Set the trip odo on your next fillup, drive it a while, fill up again, figure the amount of fuel used and the distance travelled and do the math. The gauge is a very vague indicator.

[Towncivilian]

Premium gasoline will not achieve much in a VG30/VG33 engine since they are meant to run on 87 octane fuel. Anything higher is a waste because the engine cannot advance timing far enough to gain any benefit from higher octane (resistance to detonation).

 

Seafoam and Lucas are comprised of mostly solvents. While they may clean some things, they will also leave their own deposits behind. Certain fuel system cleaners contain polyether amine, which cleans without leaving behind any deposits and is the most effective fuel system cleaner on the market today. Chevron Techron, Redline SI-1, Gumout Regane, CRC Guaranteed To Pass (this one is overpriced IMO) are all products that contain PEA.

[Precise1]

A lot of good info here, a tune up and bottle of injector cleaner is always a good idea.

 

How do I check the ATF fluid?? I can't find the darn dipstick at all lol.

 

I've gone through a 1/4 tank of gas (3/4 to 1/2) and I've driven about 50 miles. Granted the past 20 of those have been easy and the gauges falls slower. I'll have to see how it is with normal driving (I'm used to driving like a bat out of hell with the Mustang and all lol)

 

I crawled under the truck yesterday, and saw that it doesnt have big rust issues (whew). The parking brake cable going to the drums is ok on the drivers side, but has snapped on the pass side. I did however notice while going under, that on the bottom of the body, below the pass rear door, it has a piece of metal welded to the body and thats the only rust spot on the body. Makes me think that the original body part there rusted away.

As was said, passenger side back by the firewall and a small, long neck funnel if you need to fill, obviously.

 

Don't go by the gauge too much as they aren't quite linear. Fill it up, run some miles, fill it up again and do the math, it is the only reliable method.

 

Look in the Classified/Services section and check out the thread by Alkorahil. He runs an on-line parts department for a dealership, knows his stuff, has some of the best prices around for factory parts and does ship over seas now IIRC. He should be able to get you that broken brake line replacement.

 

B

[Trogdor636]

FYI, when I fill my tank, full is in between 3/4 and F. So when I'm on E, I still have a ways to go.

[cyoteone]

My first 1/4 tank usually gets me about 60 miles or so. There are only about a gazillion things that could be affecting your mileage: Tires under inflated, restrictive air cleaner (recommend drop in K&N by default, always) restrictive exhaust (mine is all stock btw) O2 sensor, your over drive is disengaged, old / bad cap and rotor / plug wires, spark plugs (NGK V-Power or Super G or platinum) old / dirty fuel filter under the hood, these are easy to change, dirty throttle body, dirty mass airflow sensor, get a can of MAF cleaner and spray inside the air filter box. Try running some really good gas i.e. Chevron / Shell premium and bottle or two of some Sea Foam or Lucas tune up in a bottle, or some STP fuel treatment. Look into getting a Gunk 3 step process performed at your local lube n tune shop.

 

If the previous owner ever had any timing belt change and it was at a reputable place there should be a sticker / lable thing showing mileage performed at when you raise the hood, it'll be there on the front of the frame engine compartment, somewhere near the hood catch / release.

 

This is just part of the process of you and your new ride getting to know each other, it'll take some time.

trust me, I would not drive that truck another mile. I took the same chance and under a load of towing my boat, the timing belt stripped out and bent every valve in the engine. Plus dimpled every piston twice. I just was assuming or hoping the previous owners replaced the timing belt not long before I bought it because, they too had put an engine in the same truck. I took no chances and replaced the entire engine soon after a successfull tranny swap. The cost of a timing belt replacement is nothing compaired to the entire engine. And it is a must to replace the water pump while you are in there too. That happen to me too. But with new engine. Mechanic I used that time didnt do as i requested and a month later it went out. And it is behind the Timing Belt. Two lifelines of your engine right there.

[gv280z]

I don't understand, the water pump is part of the timing belt KIT! Why would he not have replaced the water pump? Or, atleast I think some of those kits come with the pump..come to think of it, I guess I did have to buy mine separately. I say cut your losses, and take your new engine / timing belt and find a new mechanic!