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Pathy troubles


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I didn't use much, just a dab...with me pinky...only on some cause my friend convinced me somewhat...

 

 

 

Wow, its been three days and still no word from Nissan...Can't believe this is so hard to diagnose... :/:shrug::(

Edited by Bluewulf73
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Still no word... called 'em today and apparently they checkd the plugs, wires and distributor and found no issues. Spark, compression and timing are good. :aok:

 

They are going to swap my old MAF back in to see if its the MAF...I doubt it...maybe the PCM...?

 

They are at a loss for words... :wtf:

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They don't have a smoke machine there? Any vacuum leaks would be found in seconds with one.

 

If they noted the engine sucking in the brake cleaner at the TB or LIM to plenum gasket why haven't they replaced it or even made sure the 6 Allen head bolts holding the damn thing on are tight? Aye aye aye...

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To be quite frank, I'm a little annoyed with the dealer you're truck is at right now. I know they have to have a decent scan tool, they can plug the thing in and moniter the live data from the ECU. All four O2 sensor readings, short and long term fuel trims on each bank, the timing advance, TPS values, MAF values, etc. Why the hell aren't they doing that?

 

One thing I noticed you/ they haven't tested or replaced is the ECU Coolant Temperature Sensor... big overlook I think.

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To be quite frank, I'm a little annoyed with the dealer you're truck is at right now. I know they have to have a decent scan tool, they can plug the thing in and moniter the live data from the ECU. All four O2 sensor readings, short and long term fuel trims on each bank, the timing advance, TPS values, MAF values, etc. Why the hell aren't they doing that?

 

One thing I noticed you/ they haven't tested or replaced is the ECU Coolant Temperature Sensor... big overlook I think.

 

Hey Kingman, I too am annoyed with them and thank you for suggesting they check the ECU Coolant temp sensor. I will find out if they have at the very least, tested it...(I'm not sure how this would affect idle in the way its affecting my ride...had I known I may have suggested it myself.)

According to them they've checked All four O2 sensor readings, short and long term fuel trims on each bank, the timing advance, TPS values, MAF values, etc and nothing is out of whack. According to the service manager, they've also done compression and voltage testing to see if maybe the alternator is causing things to wonky...nothing. Everything within necessary parameters. They've had three different technicians work on the vehicle, one with 27 years' experience and even he is stumped. They've called in their Nissan Service Hotline (in front of me, while I wait) for guidance and noting came of it.

 

:yeahthat: I said the same thing a few posts ago that this dealership doesn't seem very competent. If there are no other dealers around how about a reputable independent shop?

 

Hey stioc,

 

Yes, you did mention it and I am having trouble with finding another reputable shop that knows Nissans as well as these guys do. The one reputable independent shop I know of, although they work on all brands, works mainly on Subies and Volvos. Their wait list is huge and they are fairly far from me. I had a subie before which I took to them (they replaced my prop shaft) and stopped by to ask the master tech/owner, explaining my woes and what I had done to try and mitigate the problems. He suggested taking it to a place that specializes in Nissans. He was so busy he didn't want to deal with it himself. I was quite surprised 'cause he was extremely helpful on prior occasions.

 

The long and short of it is that this dealership has the best service-satisfaction outcome of all of the ones near me. They are the closest to me and this is, really, my only option.

 

I guess i'm just going to have to wait...in the meantime, I will suggest the ECU coolant temp sensor and/or the PCM as the culprits.

 

Thanks for all your input.

Edited by Bluewulf73
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The temp sensor would definitely affect the idle. My friend had one go bad on a jetta and it would buck and not stay running.

 

I would like to add that it us a very cheap part and easy to change.

Edited by adamzan
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Apparent culprit: Lower intake manifold gasket. There is vacuum leak between the head and lower manifold. They're going to change the knock sensor and fuel pressure regulator while they're in there too.

 

PS - They tested the temp sensor and readings are normal with no spikes or sudden changes of any kind.

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:aok: :aok:

 

Awesome! finally some closure... :ohmy::beer:

 

Amen to that Brah!

 

Sweet! Glad they found something.

 

Mines in the shop now. Went in Monday Late and they were to run diagnostics today. Hope to find something out by tomorrow.

 

 

Somethign IS better than nothing...funny asked them today if they would or could guarantee this was the issue...they said, no guarantees but once this is out of the way, any other issues would be a piece of cake to find.

 

Good luck with yours...I hat playing the waiting game...

I called it. :happy:

 

 

Ye sure did rebelord, ye sure did...I hope the manifold is not warped in any way...

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Supposedly my problem is MAF. A plug for the sensor is broken. $220 part. Also the wiring harness got pinched somehow and had a short, replace from a junker. Anyway, with that, the valve cover gaskets, front and rear diff. fluid, coolant flush, steering fluid cleaned out and a few other minor things itll be $1000. Ill have her back by mid next week.

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Supposedly my problem is MAF. A plug for the sensor is broken. $220 part. Also the wiring harness got pinched somehow and had a short, replace from a junker. Anyway, with that, the valve cover gaskets, front and rear diff. fluid, coolant flush, steering fluid cleaned out and a few other minor things itll be $1000. Ill have her back by mid next week.

 

Wow, great! I'm glad they found the problem(s). How broken is broken? Like falling apart or not working? So even with a junker replacement it is still $1000??? Wow!!

Im thinking since I have a '96 its an R50. ? Im no mechanic, but is that a correct assumption? At least thats my thinking due to all the topics in this section.

 

You do have the R50 with he 3.3L. R50's also came with the VQ3.5.

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Wow, great! I'm glad they found the problem(s). How broken is broken? Like falling apart or not working? So even with a junker replacement it is still $1000??? Wow!!

 

You do have the R50 with he 3.3L. R50's also came with the VQ3.5.

One of the actual plugs in the MAF that the wiring harness plugs into was broken inside the MAF. So that, new, is $220. he got a harness fron the junk yard. And then with all the other things listed above and some other minor stuff itll be $1000. There are like 12 or 13 issues hes working on.

 

As for R50 or VQ35, how do you know, like where it tells you on the truck? Dooe jamb? Under the hood? Just curious.

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Usually a sticker under the hood, IIRC, where it shows how the belts are routed and in your user manual, the sizes and capacities section.

 

Got a call today from NIssan, as they were taking the top of the engine apart, they found a couple of pipes and hoses which were rusted/deteriorated to the point where they were leaking coolant. The parts will not arrive 'till next Tuesday...a few more days without my baby... :(:thumbsdown:

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My 2002 R50 came with 3.3ltr. VG33, I believe VQ has 3.5 ltrs.

Ok, I see, you have a 2002, I have a 1996. Do different years, '96-'04, have different engine types? And then do they change the name when they change the liters a Pathy has?

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