Bluewulf73 Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 As the title states, replaced shaft with new one and it binds! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoesandsocks Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 did u buy it from rock auto i had this problem i sent it back and they gave me a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 (edited) We tried three different axles from two different places. Two different brands and all three binded. independent auto parts store, Lordco. Noticed grease leaking out of my passenger's side boot yesterday, checked the boot, no cuts, holes or anything else. It just appears as if the boot shifted forward. I think I'm going to rebuild my axle. On anouther sour note, I just found out that my 98 is actually a 97. Maybe that is why the axles didn't fit...perhaps I should try a 97 axle, although it probably won't make a difference... I think that my new OME/NX4 lift probably caused this...there is a 3" difference in height between pre and post lift. I'm at a loss here... Edited April 29, 2013 by Bluewulf73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 A lot of guys with lifts have changed CVs and this is the first I've heard of issues. I'd be surprised if 97 had a different axle vs 98 but stranger things have happened with these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 (edited) I read a thread not long ago, that someone got CVs from Rockauto and they were binding up. Might take me a bit to find it. But not the first I have heard of it. Edit found it: Wasnt rock auto. But has some info in it. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35117-cv-axle-shudder/page-2?hl=binding&do=findComment&comment=657435 Edited April 29, 2013 by Rebelord 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 I read a thread not long ago, that someone got CVs from Rockauto and they were binding up. Might take me a bit to find it. But not the first I have heard of it. Edit found it: Wasnt rock auto. But has some info in it. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35117-cv-axle-shudder/page-2?hl=binding&do=findComment&comment=657435 Hey rebelord, I think you might have helped me solve it. Thank you. Let me explain... After trying three different axles (all of them binding with the suspension hanging, and although, while road testing, no binding on a straight line, there was some pretty nasty binding, thumping and shaking my steering wheel while turning left) from Cardone, and Vision, none of them worked. So I put my old one back on and have absolutely no issues, other than the boot leaking grease from the end with the large clamp. I can understand that tolerances are much tighter in a brand new unit but for it to make that much difference, well I am very surprised. After my lift, I went to get an alignment. When I read the last post in the topic you found, I checked the sheet for my alignment and apparently, the passenger side (which is the side giving me trouble) is at -1 degree, while the driver's side is at +1 degree. I am having absolutely no issues with the driver's side axle or boots so the more I think about it, the more the evidence points to the alignment being the culprit. I will take the car back to the alignment place have them change the angle to + 1 degree and have them change my my axle's grease and boot. Hopefully that'll fix everything. I can't wait to get my manual hubs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 Hey rebelord, I think you might have helped me solve it. Thank you. Let me explain... After trying three different axles (all of them binding with the suspension hanging, and although, while road testing, no binding on a straight line, there was some pretty nasty binding, thumping and shaking my steering wheel while turning left) from Cardone, and Vision, none of them worked. So I put my old one back on and have absolutely no issues, other than the boot leaking grease from the end with the large clamp. I can understand that tolerances are much tighter in a brand new unit but for it to make that much difference, well I am very surprised. After my lift, I went to get an alignment. When I read the last post in the topic you found, I checked the sheet for my alignment and apparently, the passenger side (which is the side giving me trouble) is at -1 degree, while the driver's side is at +1 degree. I am having absolutely no issues with the driver's side axle or boots so the more I think about it, the more the evidence points to the alignment being the culprit. I will take the car back to the alignment place have them change the angle to + 1 degree and have them change my my axle's grease and boot. Hopefully that'll fix everything. I can't wait to get my manual hubs... I'll post my findings once the camber is corrected and the boot is replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 Just for $hits and giggles, I went to Nissan to ask what they'd charge to replace the boot and clamp on my axle. They quoted me $550.00 for parts and labour. So I asked what they'd charge for a passenger side axle. They quoted $680.00 plus labour, plus taxes for just one side. I almost pooped... How can it be that one can get a new axle online for $80-$100 but they charge over $500.00? I've seen boot kits online for $5.00 plus taxes. Locally, the cheapest I found it was $30.00. How does this happen? The guy who did my alignment, is away for two weeks and today, I once again, have some pretty hefty positive camber... So, I'm going to focus on re-greasing the joint and replacing the boot and clamp. Hopefully by the time the guy comes back, the springs settle a bit and camber will once again be more...normal. Some days the front of the Pathy just looks so high! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 How can it be that one can get a new axle online for $80-$100 but they charge over $500.00? While it is quite expensive, the oem part will last another 20 years while the aftermarket one will probably only last you 5 at the most before the boots tear. I went with lifetime warranty rebuilt ones, as the new aftermarkets didn't seem to fit right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 (edited) For what it's worth, that was my thread, and my camber is dead nuts at 0 degrees on both sides according to the alignment sheet. My issue is passenger side as well. I tried 2 different new shafts and they both had the same issue. The stock CV had the issue but was MUCH less pronounced. I doubt your camber being out is the issue unless it is the outer joint that is binding, in which case it could be the camber. If it is the inner joint then camber should not affect it. The ride height change effect on the angle of the shaft is likely the culprit. THAT BEING SAID, if the change in camber solves it I'll eat my words... and take my truck back in for an alignment check! Edit: (a)ffect to (e)ffect . . . just my inner grammar Nazi coming out to play. Edited May 3, 2013 by drewp29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 And I just noticed mel.d's comment on the positive camber relieving the issue. Egg-->Face I suppose if the outer joint (non-floating) is increasing the angle of the inner CV then adjusting the top of the tire outwards (positive camber) could relieve the angle enough to fix it, but in the OP's case he already has definite positive camber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mel.d Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 (edited) Changing the camber helped with the passenger side axle, but I did not want the additional outer tire wear while waiting for the axle to break-in/settle. So I ended up rebuilding the original axle and returning the new axle. The driver side has no issues with the new axle. Edited May 6, 2013 by mel.d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mel.d Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 but in the OP's case he already has definite positive camber. Not the passenger side. He stated it has -1 degree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Not the passenger side. He stated it has -1 degree. Correct...Im getting the passenger side axle boot, grease and calmps replaced tomorrow. There is no binding of any sort in the old axle shaft. Just the boot pulling itself away from the grooves. Tried re-seating the boot and it helped a bit. Not losing nearly as much grease as I did in the begining. Hopefully my manual hubs will get here soon and in a week, I can recheck and adjust my -1 degree of camber (if its still there). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 (edited) Ok, so here's the skinny on things... Went to two different 4X garages today to assess the CV boot issue. Both garages state that the lift is too much and the angle is too high (measured at 3", comparing to my pre-lift measurements) so, basically, I have two options. 1- Take the 1" spacer off the struts 2- Make 1/2" spacers to sadwich between the transmission/transfercase and the axle, in order to push the axles out a bit more hence lessening the angle. Apparently, when I turn left, the boot is so stretched, it pulls off the cv housing. This is so incredibly frustrating!! I love the lift but I am not prepared to have it create more problems for me than I need. Has anyone here made these spacers? Does anyone here know if anyone makes these spacers? If I can't find a cheap alternative, soon I am taking these Nx4 strut spacers off. I was told alminium spacers matched to the diameter and the 6 holes of the axle assembly as well as 6 longer studs for each side would be sufficient. Edited May 6, 2013 by Bluewulf73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 (edited) Have you tried putting the boots on from the one company that makes the good one? Dont remember the name but there is a thread on it. <br /> Edited May 7, 2013 by Rebelord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 (edited) Rockfordcv. Com <br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br /><br /> Edited May 7, 2013 by Rebelord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 Thanks for your adivise, however they told me that it is the overextension of the axle shaft that is causing the boot to pull off so, even if I do get a new Rockford boot, I might have the same issue. I looks like taking off the Nx4 spacer is the best way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoesandsocks Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 what are u using to adjust the camber i have cam bolts in mine and i had iron man springs and nx4 spacers and with the alignment at 0 it was over extending also so i let it have positive camber set the car on the ground and reset the camber with the weight of the tires on it it balanced out perfectly just a suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Would a set of half-shaft spacer do the trick for you ? I have a set that I did for myself, but never installed... it's a quarter inch alu material... It will reduce the over extension, but add a bit more degrees . S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 Would a set of half-shaft spacer do the trick for you ? I have a set that I did for myself, but never installed... it's a quarter inch alu material... It will reduce the over extension, but add a bit more degrees . S. Hey Steve, If these spacers you are speaking of go where the red is in the photo below, they would, theoretically work as that is what was recommended by the shops. Photo below By adding degrees you mean positive camber? Is this + camber something tha I can fix using two camber bolts as opposed to just one? Very interested in your offer. I have PM'd you as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 yes they would go there... By degree, I mean more of the angle your shaft would be... By decreasing the space between the diff flange and the wheel hub, you will reduce the over extension, but the shaft has to 'bend' more to reach.. simple rule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 Ahhh, I understand now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 I would be interested to see if the spacer solves the issue. It will alleviate the over extension, however, the increase in angle of the CV may pose issues as well. I think I am still voting for the 2" subframe drop to fix mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 fleurys - do you by chance have a drawing of the spacer plate? I might have my shop cut one out of 1/4" A36 and see if it solves the problem for the short term. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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