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*Updated: 02/06/2022 5:26PM PST

Really stiff ride


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Hard to see in the front pic, but if the lower control arm is sitting almost level to the ground there should still be some gap between the bump stop and the area it would hit. It is possible that no matter how you adjust the torsion bars that they are so shot they don't hold any amount of lift but I doubt it. Check the gap between the bottom of the upper control arm and the bump stop, you should have at least a 1/2" of gap, if the arm is sitting on the rubber the front is sitting to high. If the lower control arm is sitting against the rubber bump stop the front would be to low.

 

Can you take a pic looking straight on of both sides of the front suspension and post it?

 

Even with the adjustable shocks being set on the "sport" setting the truck wouldn't ride that bad, I have them in my 94 and my truck rides like a Cadillac on the highway, between the stock shocks and new tires I am amazed at how well the truck rides.

 

Post back and we will go from there.

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yeah for the best ride quality you need your bumpstops to be centered with an equal distance between the rubber bump stops and the metal bump pad, a little higher is fine too (an inch or so) if you want to maintain stock ride quality.

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Thanks. This is the info I need. I do have the factory manual and tried to set the fron bars only. But it was on grass (no pavement at my place) and I was trying to adjust the camber which is positive (tops out, bottoms in). So, it appears I was doing the opposite of what I should in any circumstance. I'll try to get a better picture, but if it's dry enough this weekend I'll use the stop clearance as a guage to set the bars by and see what happens.

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it shouldn't matter what surface the truck is on, pavement would be better but if you follow the FSM procedure for measuring the ride height you should be able to set the height close.

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I got underneath and checked. I've got about a 1" gap all the way around. It does bounce when I push down on it, so it's not sitting on the snubbers. Of course, that's without me in it. I can try raising them still. I tried using the method in the manual and it brought it down too low and the tires rubbed.

 

As far as the camber, I'm sure the yutz PO didn't add any shims and I haven't seen any in there. That's why I think it's the torsion bar that's got it off.

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I have a similar experience... even with upgrading the shocks and sway bar bushings it just seems as if the weak points have been shifted somewhere else. Its like chasing your tail at this point with an 18 year old truck.

 

We should make a list of components that need to be replaced (let me take a crack at this):

 

Upper and lower ball joints (front)

Tie Rod Ends & Bushings

Control arm bushings? (worth replacing?)
Frame Bushings (not sure what these are called - right in front of the front wheels where the frame meets the body? Mine are toast.)

 

What else?

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I set my own alignment....shimming the ucas is easy. An angle finder makes it easy but even a construction level and a level floor is enough to do camber and caster. Set the ride height u want first. Then adjust shims for camber after.... best way to do it if u want the truck to track true

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I think I'm going to make an alignment how to. Settings tbars, camber, caster. I'm sure a lot of people could benefit from it. I'm convinced I have it down better than the fsm... my wd21 is on 3+ inch torsion crank, 1" bj spacers, low profile bump stops, 33x12.5 tires on 15x10 steel low offset rims...and stock control arms and my alignment is deadly good. Rides nice in town, nice down the highway.(also have the 2wd swap installed)

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Yup it us very possible to do the alignment yourself. It took me forever the first time. It takes a few tries to get the camber where you want after setting the toe. Since the toe changes the camber if you have to move it much. Make sure you do it on level ground.

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