Cory74700 Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 I'm running an '88 pathfinder VG30i motor, when I take off, if I shift to second too soon when I'm getting on the gas pedal it bogs out like sputtering while super slowly upping the rpms till I hit 3,000 then I get a quick torquey jump of power, I mean I can just shift to the next gear at 3,500rpms, to 5,500rpms and this never happens, just around 1,500-2,000rpms, any clue as to what's going on?? I was told it had to do with my EGR valve but that seems senseless, would my plan to convert to a carburetor fix this issue?? But just need a main answer of what's happening and how do I stop it from happening?? Thanks for any help in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 Sounds like a MAF sensor issue to me. Could be that or the oxygen sensor. Do you get a code? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cory74700 Posted December 29, 2012 Author Share Posted December 29, 2012 No I'm not throwing any codes either that or my obt1 scanner isn't registering them but would my idea of switching to a carb help at all?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 You can switch to a carb and there's even a member here (Mr.510) that sells adapters to attach Holley carbs. It would make everything simpler but the fuel economy might go down a little. Mine used to bog like that when I had a bad oxygen sensor. Try disconnecting that and see what happens. Make sure you also don't have an exhaust leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Have you done the correct code check/self diagnostics? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/21-ecu-self-diagnostics-for-87-95-pathfinder/ I'd bet here's at least some code in there to help aid with diagnosing what system is malfunctioning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cory74700 Posted December 30, 2012 Author Share Posted December 30, 2012 Thanks nunya ill check that out tomorrow and see if it helps me out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cory74700 Posted December 30, 2012 Author Share Posted December 30, 2012 Tungsten I do know that I have an exhaust leak as I can hear my valves ticking loudly at high tons and I was underneath it today and I could jiggle my muffler away from the cat about 1/4 inch I think I can just tighten my u-bolt to fix that though but I believe my o2 sensor is working because I passed smog with flying colors earlier this year and the problem has existed since I git it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 let us know what flash codes it gives you, we can help diagnose from there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 my car used to bog from a stop but was fine any other time, turned out the aftermarket plug wires I was using were crap, replaced them with stock wires and it was perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Good call on the wires. An exhaust leak will cause bogging because the oxygen sensor will pick up an incorrect reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cory74700 Posted December 31, 2012 Author Share Posted December 31, 2012 So I ran the codes again this afternoon and wrote them down this time, and I get the two codes P0136 and P0141 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 (edited) Those don't look like the codes from an 88, more like a 98. The codes using the red and green blinking lights on the ECU should be 2 digits. 55 (5 red, 5 green flashes) would indicate all ok The codes you posted are OBD2 codes which didn't start being used until 1996 Edited December 31, 2012 by ahardb0dy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cory74700 Posted December 31, 2012 Author Share Posted December 31, 2012 I used a portable obd2 scanner with an attachment for obd1 with programming that's supposedly able to go back to 1975 year cars and newer, I'm not sure how to get the codes using the lights if you explained it I can try that one tomorrow afternoon and post back with results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 (edited) Slide the pass. seat forward, remove the cover on the ECU if it has one locate the switch, should be on the rear of the ECU locate the little window with red and green LED's under the clear plastic Turn ignition switch on move the switch on the ECU to the "on" position when the red and green LED's flash together 3 times shut the switch off ( this puts the ECU in the self diagnostic mode) record the number of flashes of the red and the green LED for example 5 red flashes, 5 green flashes means all ok after each color flashes, let it flash again, if you get the same code than that would be the only code, if you get a different number of flashes than that would be a second code, keep looking at the flashes until they repeat than you are done I don't have a FSM for the 88 but these are the codes from the 1989 FSM: 11 - Crank Angle Sensor circuit 12 - Air Flow Meter 13 - Cylinder head/Water temperature Sensor circuit 21 - Ignition signal missing in primary coil 31 - ECU - (E.C.C.S. Control unit) 32 - E.G.R circuit (California only) 33 - Exhaust gas sensor circuit 35 - Exhaust gas temparature sensor circuit (California only) 43 - Throttle Sensor circuit 45 - Injector Leak (California only) 51 - Injector (VG30i model only) 55 - No malfunctions Edited December 31, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 So I ran the codes again this afternoon and wrote them down this time, and I get the two codes P0136 and P0141 Those are oxygen sensor codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Those are oxygen sensor codes. Yeah for an OBD2 system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Not necessarily, the P codes are generated by the OBD tool and not by the diagnostic computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amfq120 Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 I had the same problem with my 94 auto. When RPM's would drop when shifting to overdrive on the freeway it would bog. What fixed mine was replacing the coolant temp sensor or the engine temp sensor? Its a gold one that looks like a spart plug. It just under the upper radiator hose on my 94. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cory74700 Posted January 1, 2013 Author Share Posted January 1, 2013 Well I was in quite a bind today trying to get some new tires and didn't have time to get home and check through the ecu with the flashing lights so ill have to do it tomorrow, then if I get the o2 sensor One ill try to tighten up my exhaust around the exit of my catalytic converter and then do it again and see if they still do the same, if I can ill try and get a video because all this blinking light stuff is new to me and maybe one of you guys can decipher it for me instead of me scratching my head on it. just a double check the red should flash first then green right?? Thank you to everyone who has added their input to help me out so far, and happy New years, ill be talking to you all in the 2013 year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cory74700 Posted January 1, 2013 Author Share Posted January 1, 2013 (edited) So i decided to do the video tonight, and it came up 5 red flashes, 5 green flashes, i let it cycle through twice to see if it changed or not. im still puzzled though, ill do a video tomorrow while driving, don't worry ill do it in an empty parking lot to ensure i don't endanger other drivers while driving with my phone in my hand to record the video, and ill do it a few times to make sure i get a good sound quality for you guys, the sound on this video sucked unless your volume is up high. but heres the ECU go at it. came up with no malfunctions. Edited January 1, 2013 by Cory74700 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pav Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 I used a portable obd2 scanner with an attachment for obd1 with programming that's supposedly able to go back to 1975 year cars and newer, I'm not sure how to get the codes using the lights if you explained it I can try that one tomorrow afternoon and post back with results. Just curious what brand and model of OBD2 scanner you used? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cory74700 Posted January 6, 2013 Author Share Posted January 6, 2013 Actron 9135 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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