rollingrock Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 Hey guys...at ranch...went down gravel road and abs and brake light came on...sorry I couldnt search...very klow net speeds.... Thoughts? Suggestions Rr Posted by Samsung Galaxy S3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 Did you check the brake fluid level? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 Yessir...full hot Posted by Samsung Galaxy S3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 Isn't ABS, brake and something else illuminated a charging flag? Make sure the charging system is working, check the wires to the MC and if everything is working right, I wouldn't worry about it right away. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 Isn't ABS, brake and something else illuminated a charging flag? Make sure the charging system is working, check the wires to the MC and if everything is working right, I wouldn't worry about it right away. B man you lost me. It isn't the ABS is what you saying? Do you think that b/c both the "brake" (red) light and the Yellow ABS came on at the same time when I hit some rough section of dirt road? I only see 2 wires going into the master cylinder. They look cheap and flemlsy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 I did find these two open plugs...based on hayes book...the smaller one is the "control wire" for the abs system...why would it be unplugged? Posted by Samsung Galaxy S3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 update...I did add some fluid to the resovoir. It was about half an inch below max. Still brake light and abs light on, gonna go check on a feeder and drive down to the back of the ranch, back in a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 man you lost me. It isn't the ABS is what you saying? Do you think that b/c both the "brake" (red) light and the Yellow ABS came on at the same time when I hit some rough section of dirt road? I only see 2 wires going into the master cylinder. They look cheap and flemlsy Sorry, that wasn't clear. If your idiot lights all light up, it means the charging system isn't. I can't remember which ones and haven't experienced it though... Yes, the wires into the MC are usually rather pathetic, but they could be the cause of the lights if they are shorting or kinked/broken (and then disturbed by rough road). I don't know why the ABS plug would be disconnected other than some people disable the ABS. It's pretty useless in my book and according to Alkorahil (the Texas dealership parts guy) it only really works when heavily loaded or towing anyway. The ABS module on the rear passenger frame rail has a bleed nipple on it and can be a pain in the butt to keep happy, ie the ABS light will go on and take some bleeding and fussing to get to go off. Try removing the ABS fuse and see if the lights go out. As I said, I don't think you actually have a problem, just a light show... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 (edited) I think the brake, battery, and A/T OIL TEMP (if equipped) will light up if your alternator is dying. If you haven't changed the brake fluid within the past two years, it wouldn't hurt to do so since brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture over time, lowering the boiling point of the fluid. Changing it every 2 years is a reasonable time interval. For WD21s, the brake bleeding order is: 1. LSV air bleeder (Models equipped with LSV) 2. Left rear brake 3. Right rear brake 4. Left front brake 5. Right front brake 6. R-ABS actuator (Models equipped with R-ABS) I'm pretty sure WD21s don't have LSVs, only D21 (Hardbodies), so ignore that. Edited December 9, 2012 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 ok, a few more notes yere. Is it possible that the ABS plug I see is for the ABS control module computer just like ODB1 port it is next too? Also, when I get in the car, there is a BEEP BEEB BEEB outside the ding ding ding from Nissan. When I take the ABS fuse out the lights stay on. When I put it back in and restart, the ABS light goes out, then 5 sec later it comes back steady . Lastly, i checked the battery, it was low on water. So I filled it up some. I suspect that the bake fluid is pretty old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 i sure hope I make it home from the ranch...makes me a tad nervous now...I already shot another deer today so I don't need to do anything but tinker and have some crown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 I should prob mention this...we went around a corner where it is kind of wash boards and rattled the truck pretty hard...then both the Brake and ABS came on at the same time. Does that info help? Could a gravel rock have hit the ABS speed sensor on the diff? I took a look at it...it looked fine. And btw they are pretty pricy. The fact that both came on at the same time has me scratching my head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 If your brakes are performing normally I wouldn't worry too much. The first (and cheapest) thing I'd do is bleed the brakes per the FSM with good clean fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 I don't like the lights on. My OCD showing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 If your brakes are performing normally I wouldn't worry too much. The first (and cheapest) thing I'd do is bleed the brakes per the FSM with good clean fluid. Sorry to ask...what is the FSM? something service manual right? RR Posted by Samsung Galaxy S3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 Ok guys....new light.....go in to go home and my 4x4 light is now on Posted by Samsung Galaxy S3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 Posted by Samsung Galaxy S3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 FSM is factory service manual. You can download it somewhere around here, much better than a Haynes manual. The odd mess of lights coming on is definitely interesting now. This is what B was talking about for a failing alternator, but I'm not sure that included a 4x4 light. You took that pic while you were moving right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 You took that pic while you were moving right? Yessir....I am 1.5 hours from home now... Can a bad alt make noise? Posted by Samsung Galaxy S3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 Yea I've had bearings go bad on one. Sounded horrible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 I've had the bearings seize on the freeway with dual belts. It sounded like someone was slaughtering a pig under the hood... I have to ask, did you stop and make sure you weren't in 4x4? The lever was in the proper position? The hubs were unlocked? If so, this is pretty odd... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 got home, (Thank the Lord) ran up to Autozone, they cannot test ODB1, but they did test my alt and it was only providing 12 volts...new problem, belts I got from Nissan are the wrong belts...so I am swapping them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 If you need a new alternator, be advised that a Maxima alternator mounts up perfectly and is 70 amps compared to the Pathy's 55 amp alternator and IIRC, a fair amount cheaper. It's a standard 'upgrade' that people do. There is a thread or two on it. If you can't find it, I'll look it up to get the proper year range. Also, as Trogdor said, the FSM is the Factory Service Manual which is generally far superior to the aftermarket manuals. A link for where do download your free copy is pinned in the Garage section. The earliest year is 1994, but it applies to 90-95% of your vehicle, basically all the important stuff. What won't match is dash info, trim, bumpers and a few other details. B Oh, glad you got home. Sorry you had issues on your maiden voyage, but obviously there are a few bugs to work out. Other than making you paranoid, how did you like it so far? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 Its also cheaper for a Maxima alternator at all my local parts stores. By $30-40 bucks usually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 Thanks guys yes I have a new alternator...but a tad confused. E is "earth" or ground right? Well in haste I have some extra part that was looped to itself and I don't remeber where it was. Not sure if it was E or Bat along with the red bat line. There is also a plug there which is obvious where it goes then another black line that I "think" goes into E also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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