Repack Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 I've used the search function, but can't find what I am looking for. I know that at some point, cranking your trosion bars will start to stress the CV boots and all sorts of other stuff that I do not want breaking. At what point does this become serious? I am all set to get JCG springs and Rancho RSX's. Then I thought, so long as I am lifting it 3/4", why not go for 2"? I am looking to do whatever the max is for rear spring and new shocks without destroying my front end. I think I remember reading that 3" of torsion lift is dangerous. The suspension work is work that I need to do anyway, so I figured why not make te most of it. Thanks guys, this site rules! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 Technically speaking, you can crank 'em up till the UCA's are resting on the upper bumpstops and drive around all day like that, but your BJ's and CV's will die pretty quickly (particularly with off-road use). 2" of front-end lift is acceptable. Just make sure you have at least 1/2" between the UCA and the upper bumpstop and it gets re-aligned afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 I read this post with interest as I too am looking to rise up the front end to match it with the rear. It appears as they left the factory with a lower front end. I too don't want prematurely worn ball joints and CV joints. Let me know how you make out Repack. A question to anyone who has already done this... Have seen a shorter life from front end parts after you cranked the torsion bars? Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Repack Posted December 18, 2004 Author Share Posted December 18, 2004 Thanks, 88 Keith- This is what I think I know. A 3" lift kit is dangerous if not done correctly. I have seen a number of 3" kits available in the ~$650 range. The problem is that they max out all the joints in the front end. A friend of mine bought one and it killed his suspension quickly. As far as I can tell, it costs ~$1,400 to do it the "right way". You need to replace a bunch of stuff to allow for greater angles. I have a friend with a '95 Tacoma and he turned me on to the idea of the 2" r springs and shocks. My shocks and spring are all pretty beat, so my 2" lift won't cost me too much more than I was already going to spend. My birthday is 12/27 and I am going to ask for the parts as a Christmas/B-day goft, so it shouldn't be too long before all the stuff is bolted up. -J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Bottom line...if you want it to last a long time, leave the suspension stock and just get a body lift. If you use a suspension lift, you're going to wear out parts quicker, that's something you have to accept if you want to go that route. I'm currently on my third set of upper balljoints and second set of lowers, second set of rear lower control arms, second set of tension rod bushings and numerous centerlinks and tie rods... Here's a tip. If you're in the market for new balljoints, buy the cheapest ones you can find with a lifetime warranty and KEEP THE BOX AND RECIEPTS. Price doesn't necessarily represent quality when it comes to BJ's, like a lot of other things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatter_xe Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 This may be a ridiculous question, But with the 3" lift UCA's in the front installed, are you running your UCA's basically resting on the upper bumpstops?? Or do they correct the angle so you can still have a few inches of space for some ride comfort? I already have some 3" lift coils from AC and I am going to order some UCA's from somewhere soon, but if my ride will be sh!$ even with the new UCA's maybe that isn't a wise decision. hmm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 I'm sure some one will correct me if I'm wrong (88), but all the aftermarket UCA's do is keep ball joints at correct angles. Other than that, the CV's and steering are still affected by crankin till the bumpstops. I ride mine at about 1" from the bump stops, haven't busted anything yet. But then again, I replaced everything except CV's and lower balls when I did it. Gotta love the Calmini steering kit. M.M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87mudfinder Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 (edited) I'm currently on my third set of upper balljoints and second set of lowers, second set of rear lower control arms, second set of tension rod bushings and numerous centerlinks and tie rods... 88 i got a question for you that everyone will like to see also.. First what are the signs and how does a vehicle drive with worn gear? This question i think will answer to that new Pathfinder i am looking at that has had the 3inch torsions cranked and running 33 12.5 tires and now has major steering problems... Second the rear lower control arms i know mine are hooped on the vehcile i run now [ the bushings are totally squashed .. I get major squeeks from sudden braking stops.. And next is anything available thats somewaht sexy looking to replace this old primitive looking part or do you just go get stock ones? Would you strip the lower control arms off a wrecker or just go new.. And i hope im talking about the front lowers ..... Don't even really know what they are called here im adding a picture with arrow... Oh and last thing those GJC 3 inch lift rear springs will take how much weight in total do you think just estimated? Need to know this for a possible front-end project.... Edited February 10, 2005 by 87mudfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardwaretoad Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 (edited) Well, I'm not 88, but I think I can answer a couple of your questions. That's called a compression rod there on the front suspension, 87mudfinder. I'd try & find some "un-bent" ones off of a wrecker, not sure what the stealer wants for 'em, but I'm sure it'd be more. Might not be that much for the peace of mind of having new components up there... :contract: Not much to say about worn gear but that the thing will be all over the road ~ crapped out ball joints, etc. have a habit of sending you wandering because of all the slop in the respective joints. One's bad enough... if they're all gone you'll be having some interesting looks from the cops ~ "Have you been drinking, Sir?" -alcohol- As far as the JGC coils, the reason they lift the rear on the Pathy has to do with the fact that they're designed to support a big ol' cast iron V8, on top of being somewhat longer in design. Since the pigtail's cut to fit the Pathy (thereby reducing overall height), it's not so much additional spring height as it is increased weight capacity of the coil itself that pops your rear up. If they'll handle the Heep's pig-iron motor, they'll probably handle anything you might have in mind... like a coil sprung SAS perhaps? Edited February 10, 2005 by hardwaretoad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87mudfinder Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 (edited) Yeah my compression rods are completely wasted.. I am in need of some badly. I saw a pair on a local wreckered pathy and should have grabbed them they looked brand new pssd What an idiot i am Never passs up a new looking part at the wreckers i am learning.. Nothings available from any aftermarket place for this part/item? Thanks man that helped out... Im not 1000% sure of the years of pathfinders that had the shock & spring in the front, But am rethinking the idea of doing the 87's pathfinders front with that senario. If i can weld up the upper bracket or just cut off a front end from the wreckers/ and or get the proper measurements then refab up the front so i can add in the JGC spring to the front + back im sitting 3 inchs higher and should be able to add the V8-383 without any front end problems.. Worst case senario i head to a spring shop and get something custom made to take some serious weight for the front.. I just don't want som aggy beat up front end with a 400 horse engine. I know in the near future i will be replacing the rear end drive shafts and probabaly alot more but for now ARGHHHHHHHHHHHH:wacko: I know my dad had this same issue with a supped up 52 chevy he had. He ended up palying with 8 different springs and ended up with airbags.. But this isn't a 52 chevy. Its the Pathfinder.... hehehe ****I was wondering if anyone had tested the weight in the pathfinders of that GJC [aka rear 3 inch spring.] I think i read somewhere somone said that the rear hitch tirerack on pathfinders was too heavy with that spring lift and kicked the butt end down abit? If that is the case the spring is not gonna work on the front for the 383...*** So for now back to drinking and the drawing board -alcohol- Edited February 10, 2005 by 87mudfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 I don't know about this front end spring set-up your talking about, but I have the JGC springs in back. With the stock tire carrier and tire, an aftermarket TorkLift reciever hitch, and a sub box with 2 10's with pretty monster magnets, I still got just shy of 3" lift, probably about 2.75". And yes, I chopped the pigtail off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardwaretoad Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 (edited) I think you're confusing 1st generation Pathys with 2nd generation ones as far as the "shock & the spring in the front". Sounds like you've been looking at the post about the coil-overs for the McPherson strut front-ends on the R50's. The JGC coils wouldn't lift a Pathy with a rear carrier as high... an extra 100+ lbs. hanging off the extreme rear would see to that, simple physics. It would depend on alot of things ~ how used & abused the donor springs are, for example. You could always go buy some new lift springs for a JGC to assure max lift... :contract: Edited February 11, 2005 by hardwaretoad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87mudfinder Posted February 12, 2005 Share Posted February 12, 2005 no im not mixing up the generations Just wanna know if i can convert over a set of coils in the front and if they will do me any justice with a v8 or am i fakked and need to go SAS only and last thing said with the v8? Other than that does anyone know of 16 inch rims to put on a Nissan Pathfinder? I got a set of tires and cannot sell them wortha shizit bfgoodrich allterrains and would use them for now on a set of 16 inch rims if i could get them? Then sell my pathy rims and 15 muds... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted February 12, 2005 Share Posted February 12, 2005 I believe some Chevy rims may fit, although you may have to have the center bored out on a lathe. That or you may look at some Rock Crawler-type steel wheels, as they're pretty cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted February 12, 2005 Share Posted February 12, 2005 Price doesn't necessarily represent quality when it comes to BJ's, like a lot of other things. Yeah, a BJ is a BJ, why pay more if you don't have to. Then again, when you can find a BJ, you might just want to pay for it if it's convinient... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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