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Hubcentric spacers


theexbrit
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I bought these,

 

http://www.fastwheelaccessories.com/set-of-4-polycarbonate-plastic-hub-centric-rings-108mm-od-100mm-id/

 

They helped ALOT but they still shutter with the Pro-Comps i have on down hill braking, the fit okay, i think the hubs are a 99 or 98 mm but if you're getting a 4.25 bore on the pro comps, 108mm fits perfectly!

 

Something custom will be needed to get a perfect fit (IMO) but despite what everyone says on here, HUB CENTERING RINGS WORK!!

 

-Kyle

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What's wrong with lugcentric? :shrug:

 

Here's what I read on several places.........

 

"Hub-Centric:

Nearly all OEM Wheels are designed to be hub-centric. The automaker designs an OEM wheel to fit on a certain car or range of cars. The center bore of the wheel is sized to fit perfectly onto the axle of that car. This is a hub-centric connection, as the wheel is centered by it's connection to the axle hub. The lugnuts hold the wheel firmly to the mounting plate, but it is the wheel-to-axle connection that actually holds the weight of the car. This is quite an important distinction, as the lugnuts are designed to handle lateral forces that push the wheel away from the mounting plate. The forces that the hub and center bore connection are designed to withstand – the weight of the car forcing downward and impacts forcing upward – are at right angles to the forces that the lugnuts are designed for.

Lug-Centric:

Hub diameter is therefore an extremely important consideration when fitting new wheels, whether OEM or aftermarket. If the hub diameter is smaller that the axle, the wheel will simply not fit. Most aftermarket wheels are therefore made with larger hub diameters to ensure that they will fit on a wide range of cars. This means that when the wheel is installed, there will most likely be a space between the axle and the hub instead of a firm contact. The wheel is therefore lug-centric, as the wheel is centered by the lugs rather than by the hub. There are some people who will say that driving on lug-centric wheels doesn't really matter as long as the lugnuts are the self-centering cone type, as they will adequately center the wheel. These people are wrong. Driving on lug-centric wheels means that any impact will apply shear force to the lug studs, forces at 90 degrees to those the studs are designed to handle. This can cause the lug studs to bend, leading to a vibration in the car as the wheel slips around on the mounting plate, and possibly damaging the wheel's center bore if it has enough play to contact the axle. To prevent this kind of thing, aftermarket wheels will usually need hub-centric spacers, small rings of metal or plastic made with various inside and outside diameters so as to fit inside the wheel hub and then fit over the axle, making a lug-centric fitment into a hub-centric one. Some aftermarket wheel makers advertise that all of their wheels are in fact hub-centric – what this means is that they provide the proper spacers for the customer's car, not that they custom-make their wheels for the many hub diameters out there. Most good wheel retailers, online or otherwise, will provide the correct spacers as part of the fitment package. If you do need to shop for a set, try one of the better online stores. In Real Life, most tire retailers will also either carry spacers or will know who does. Do not make the mistake of thinking that spacers are optional equipment, or that a retailer is trying to upsell you on some useless accessories. Hub-centric spacers are actually about as necessary for aftermarket wheels as lugnuts are. Keep the proper fitment for your wheels and you'll be driving happy for a good long time."

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From my experience, usually issues with lugcentric wheels stem from only a few things. Improper mounting or torque/sequence, poorly made rims, or significantly oversized wheels/tires from stock specs. I can't say I have had any real problems with lugcentric, other than the time I lost a tire on a VW Bug but then I'm sure they weren't meant to run 31x10.5s either. My preference is to avoid spacers or adapters, but if it works for you, I'm glad you found a solution.

 

B

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other than the time I lost a tire on a VW Bug but then I'm sure they weren't meant to run 31x10.5s either.

 

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Edited by theexbrit
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From my experience, usually issues with lugcentric wheels stem from only a few things. Improper mounting or torque/sequence, poorly made rims, or significantly oversized wheels/tires from stock specs. I can't say I have had any real problems with lugcentric, other than the time I lost a tire on a VW Bug but then I'm sure they weren't meant to run 31x10.5s either. My preference is to avoid spacers or adapters, but if it works for you, I'm glad you found a solution.

 

B

I gotta agree with this, the only time I've personally ever had an issue with a ligcentric wheel was due to spacers or someone who shouldn't be touching a lug wrench. Though my past experience is just that (mine) I'm not gonna condone someone for tying to be more safe.

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I have lug centric spacers on my car with no issues. Running 18" rims. I torque them down 3 different times. 1st is snug. 2nd is 30lbs. 3rd is 80lbs. I don't let the car sit on the ground when doing it. Kind of a pain but it works. If I don't do it right I get a vibration about 40. Torque in a star pattern. I also don't start and stop with the same nuts each time.

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Thanks for the link Kyle.

 

I found another couple of places that sell metal spacers also.

 

yeah, i don't advise those plastic ones, i put them maybe a week and a half ago, and after taking them off today to make room for my 31's they are melted to the point where i need new ones if i take them off again. oops :broken:

 

If you find a good set of metal ones, hit me up, ill need to get a set too, what bore wheels are you looking at?

 

-Kyle

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