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Engine Cuts Out


NissanPerson
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Luckily, I made it here today. Anyway, it was about -5F this morning and when I was trying to enter the freeway I punched it down, as usual, and the engine went to idle speed. Car was nearly floored, engine at idle speed. It kept doing this and luckily there was a HP clocking people or something and he followed me off the interstate at about 40mph...he checked to see if things were ok and I took town to college today. Anyway, I have replaced the plugs, distributor, rotor, ignition coil thingy (the black thing where the main plug wire comes from), new timing belt, water pump, etc. etc. So, the only thing I can think of is some sensor that's causing it to flood or some other crazy thing. Just wondering if anybody has any ideas on this. I searched the forums but did not find anything that seemed relevent. Thanks! Oh, it's an 88 with the V6. If that helps.

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Well, I checked some things out and still can't find the problem. I ran the error codes and got that all was well. Then, I did that mode five or whatever allows you to check "real-time" and supposedly checks the mass airflow sensor. Got the car to act up yesterday but no codes. It's about 0 degrees today with windchill of -40 and it's starting to get on my nerves. Haha. Anyway, it ran fine for a couple of days and then started being a jerk again a few days ago. I've kind of narrowed down how to make the symptoms occur though. If I'm driving about 25 mph (haven't tried it faster because I'm afraid it'll die somewhere) and I punch it down it kind of sputters and the idle drops to nothing. Then, if I let up and push it down again it may take off just fine or it may sputter some more. Before I replace the throttle position sensor for lack of a better idea, is this a symptom the TPS may cause? It doesn't do it every time, just when it feels like it. Also, it seems like it may have something to do with being warmed up. That led me to try the oxygen sensor type thingy today. I was going through troubleshooting ideas in the manual and it said to disconnect the harness and if the problem didn't happen replace the sensor. So, I disconnected it, drove around for about 45 minutes...near my house...and couldn't get it to do it. Then, I plugged the harness back in and couldn't get it to do it either. Finally, it sputtered a bit but not bad, under acceleration as usual, but I couldn't get it to do it again. Then, I checked the error codes at the end and it flasshed 33, which is the sensor I disconnected, so I'm sure that means nothing. Anyway, you guys think it may be the TPS with these symptoms? Someone have a different/better idea? I called the local Nissan place and they said fuel pump. I suppose anything is possible with no error codes.

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Just a hunch, but have you considered the fuel filter ? I had an older Nissan PU, and the fuel filter clogged in 1 weekend; it would run fine to a certain throttle position, then blubber. A different car I had would drive fine, but die on steep hills... Just seems similiar, and it is a quick cheap item. The fact that the stealer suspects fuel delivery issues also coinsides...

 

Bernard

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Yeah, I'm waiting til it warms up this weekend (highs in the 20's!) and then I'm going to stick a new filter in (because it's close to needing one anyway) and if that doesn't do the trick then I'll try the TPS or something. I think aftermarket the TPS is like $50. Well, thanks Precise. I was just thinking if the filter was clogged you'd think it'd do it all the time. SERIOUSLY! CARS SHOULD MAKE MORE SENSE. Once I figure out what it is (if ever) I'll be sure to post the fix so other people can resolve their issues in the future.

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fuel filer would be my first suspect too. may want to run injector cleaner for good measure too. could also be O2 sensor still. sounds like your truck has quite a few miles on it so it could also be cat conv. but if it didn't act up when you disconnected whatever you disconnected then that's prob your culprit.... especially if it did come back after disconnect...

 

also, since you just worked on your car check all connections and vacuum hoses especailly in the areas of your last work... could have bumped something off..

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Thanks MZ. I just got a fuel filter and I'll be putting it in soon (only $14!). I did all that work within about 5,000 miles so I don't think I messed anything up...or it would've been going crazy before this. I took the oxygen sensor harness off (I don't know if it's technically called an O2 sensor on these things...) and couldn't get it to act up. But, it doesn't always act up...so it may have just been chance that it didn't act up. So, I'm starting with the fuel filter...checked all the vacuum stuff and it looks good....as far as visual inspection. But no error codes until after I unhooked the O2 thingy. Then I got the 33 to flash, which it obviously should since I disconnected it. Other than that no error codes. Anyway, I'll let you know what happens after I change it and drive it for a while. (crosses fingers) hopefully that'll cure it.

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Fuel filter (BUZZER NOISE). Put a new one in, easy task. Still died. Now it did it when the engine hadn't warmed up. So, I'm thinking TPS for the next shot. After that, mechanic. Haha. Now, when taking off from a stop sign it's just hesitate and die. So, seems like TPS. GOTTA BE! SERIOUSLY! IT HAS TO BE!!! Thanks for all your help everyone. I'll keep you posted...probably get it put in this weekend as it got very windy and the temp. is dropping.

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The TPS went out on my ex-hag's Dodge Shadow once. It would run fine until it warmed up, then sputter and buck under acceleration. The fuel delivery or ignition timing had two different modes, one for normal operation when the engine is warm and another that acted like a choke. Once it warmed up, the TPS wasn't giving the computer the right info. It would run fine up to a certain temp then bog down once it switched modes. Her's would do it every time, though...

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If it was a carbed engine you would say the syptoms indicate the engine being starved of fuel when you punch it down. So you would look at the filter and float bowl. So as you are not getting any error codes, it suggests its not an electrical or sensor problem. It still could be, but technically if the computers doing its job, you shouldbe able to rule that side of things out.

I didn't have a petrol pathy, so i can't give you specifics, but check your manual to see how the fuel tank vents/breaths. Either through the cap or through a seperate hose with a non return valve etc. Check that system is opperating properly. You need the air to enter the tank to replace the fuel as it is used otherwise the fuel pump trys to suck the petrol tank inside out, causing syptoms like you describe.

In your manual under Spec's it should tell you what your fuel pressure should be, check that some how, or just have a look and see if its being pumped out in a good strong flow. Try bypassing the fuel filter.

Fractured fuel line could be another cause.

Just a couple of thoughts.

Pete

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Thanks guys. Those are two more things I'll take a look at. Some of them just sound too annoying for me to want to do. I can do almost anything, it's just a matter of if I want to "pi** and moan" about it. I had a mechanic friend list off "could be a bad gas cap, ice clogging something, fuel pressure, fuel pump, water temp sensor, etc. etc." And, most of that stuff I don't want to mess with in an enclosed heated garage as it involves gas fumes. Could be a bad situtation. :) At any rate, it wouldn't hurt or be too bad, I don't think, to put a new TPS in and I'm also going to put a new water temp. sensor. After that, I think I'll just let the mechanic start checking stuff next week as there seem to be about a million things it could be. Thanks guys, i'll let ya'll know what it is...if it ever is solved!

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Well, put a new TPS in this weekend and no improvement. Ran it in mode IV...I think...the one where the green light stays on at speeds over 12mph. Anyway, got it to act up and the green and red light were doing weird stuff. Checked the speed sensor...I think that's what it's called...on the rear wheel and that's fine...shot in the dark I guess. I'm going to take it to the mechanic this week. Too many possibilities with too little time. At least I narrowed a couple things down for the mechanic. I'll keep ya'll posted on what it is.

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But at the same time I don't think that a bad O2 sensor would cause problems as serious as stalling and such. Usually it's just bad gas mileage and higher emissions. Right? I think air flow meter or a leak in the intake might be worth checking out.

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Weird thing today. Couldn't get the car started. Early last November I had this same problem. It'd turn over but not start. I put a new ignition coil in and it was fine last fall. So, today, I went and bought a new ignition coil (they're only $25) even though the other was only about 5,000 miles old. Anyway, I plopped that in, thing started up fine after that. Then I took it out and drove it around (I messed with the MAF too) and couldn't get it to stall. It ran just fine. Of course, it was about 30 today (warmer than before) so i don't know if that had anything to do with it. I have an appt. with a mechanic (really good mechanic) on Monday but I figure I'll keep driving it to the store and such (since it isn't too far away if it decided to act up) and see if maybe, somehow, the ignition coil was defective or something and that's what was causing it. I highly doubt it, but...eh, weirder things have happened. I was trying to think of any horrible things I had done to people that could bring this "wrath" upon me. I mean, I only beat up 8 kids and stole their Christmas presents. Don't think that's too horrible. Stupid cars.

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I am experienceing silmilar problems with my 89, it seems worse when it is damp outside. I took it to the dealer and they said that it was because of this casket that has a heating element in it on the throttle body to warm the fuel and told me I needed to replace the whole t-body. I of course told them to kiss it and left(Thieving bastards)...

 

I have not yet fixed the problem but will be taking it to a friend of my cousins who apparently has worked for Nissan for 16 years and knows the Pathfinder well. I will keep you posted on our progress. Also let me know what you come up with as well.

 

Good Luck!!!

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I can't BELIEVE the dealership says you need to replace the whole TBI because the heater quit on you. It's totally replaceable, and they should know that.

 

Check it out: You can just plain remove the TBI, separate the mixture heater, break the center out of it, and reinstall the whole thing with new gaskets. Leave the mixture heater unplugged, though. It will run just the same and probably make a little more power because the restictive heater element honeycomb is removed. I did that on mine and it runs fine, no error codes. :) Hope that helps, it's not too hard to do and fairly simple to fix. You'll also save big bucks. :D

 

For a new gasket, get a roll of gasket material for $4 and cut your own out, use a hole punch or X-Acto knife to cut out the center hole and bolt holes.

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a buddy o mine had what sounds to be pretty close to the same problem. Only he didnt have to punch the throttle, it would just up and die. He'd let it set for a minute and it would fire up and go for a few more miles. It just kept getting worese till it just wouldnt start any more. He took it to the local stealer and they diagnosed it as some relay in the fuel system. Whether it be a fuel pump relay or what, i dont know. The relay was replaced and he hasnt had a problem since.

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Alright, two more ideas! (adds to list of 10,001 other things it could be ;) )

Anyway, that seems like a logical idea as well (the TBI heater thingy). It is warm out now (relatively) and maybe that could be why it isn't acting up. It's supposed to get cold again this weekend so I'll be sure to run it then and see what happens. Thanks guys.

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