NissanNismoZ Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Ugh..if it isn't one thing, its another. I've noticed (I still have the huge power loss from the EGR being screwed up) I have to push it a little harder before hitting a hill..it unlocks the torque converter then ill push harder and it'll slip, ill let off some then it'll shift back into gear..I will say my reverse works great..so I don't think the tranny is shot...yet.. But what could this be..? I checked the fluid and its normal..and I noticed a few air bubbles on the stick .. I've put so much into the Pathy for the tranny to fail now.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 How have you maintained the fluid? Does the E/AT light blink while driving? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Is this with the overdrive on or off? Mine always feels like pushing a cow up hills if I've got the overdrive on. Are you sure it's actually a clutch slipping and not just an open torque converter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 Honestly I haven't maintained it.. yet. It was on the list of todo when I get a chance but never got around to it.. The E-AT light only blinks at startup then stays off unless I turn it on. I do remember the switch was on auto and when the truck had ZERO power the light came on and stayed on and it drove like I had the switch to on. I guess it thought I was towing something? This is with overdrive on (with the light not on on the dash) I don't know how to tell if its the torque converter or not..I just know its usually when I want it to downshift from the torque converter being locked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Whenever I'm above 45 mph (and not accelerating or taking a hill) I put it in overdrive. The rest of the time, I leave it off. I read on here somewhere that it helps keep it cooler (?) and it seems to pull a lot harder that way. That said, if your driving habits haven't changed but it's acting differently, that's definitely something to look into. I'd suggest fixing the EGR before trying to diagnose the trans. It sounds like the engine computer does talk to the transmission computer, and if the engine's running like hell, that could lead to the trans malfunctioning. You might be able to fix the EGR without replacing it... I just shot some WD-40 in through the vac connections on mine, blew/sucked the line until it quit squeaking and sticking, and put it back together. Also check the tubing... one short fat connector in mine was dry rotted through in the back, where I couldn't see it. If the fluid's good, and you have reverse, then either the clutch packs are legitimately worn out (I would expect to see the flashing e-at light with this) or the control circuitry is doing dumb things... hopefully it's the circuitry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 would the tps have anything to do with this? (has it been adjusted per the FSM??) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Yeah, I'd adjust the TPS to spec (see EC-135) and maybe do a drain & fill of the fluid to begin with (or preferably a pan drop & filter change if it's not too inconvenient for you), then a couple more drain & fills a few weeks apart to gently clean things out and gradually replace all the fluid. The torque spec for the drain plug is 25 ft/lbs; you shouldn't need to replace the drain plug washer according to the FSM. If you do a pan drop, the in-pan filter bolts' and the transmission pan bolts' torque spec is 61.2 - 78 inch pounds. Be sure the filter has a new O-ring before installing it; lubricate it with petroleum jelly before putting it on the filter. Remove the in-pan donut magnet and clean it very thoroughly, and if you've got any additional donut magnets, laying around throw them in the pan. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 (edited) You know..I can't seem to replicate the problem.. no matter how I drive it it just won't do it again. I mean it shifts into every gear quickly.. I'm going to try letting the EGR sit over night in Carb cleaner tomorrow (have to borrow a friends HUGE channel locks to get that pipe off) and ill see if that fixes the EGR. But the TPS was NOT really adjusted. It seems like it needs it but I never could find the page in the FSM. Thanks TownCivilian for the very specific information. I currently don't own a torque wrench so ill wait before I do a pan drop. Thanks everyone! Ill try adjusting the TPS and seeing if that helps. All I did was change it out and put the new one in the screw 'marks' Also..what type of transmission fluid is best for these? Thanks! Circuitry.. UGH that's right! Can anyone tell me what that loom that's on the passenger side valve cover goes to that leads to the tranny?? I forgot to loom it back and it melted against the exhaust (in under 15 minutes of idling) it killed my Meter fuse and left the gauges dead with a very very faint battery light on the dash. I still haven't repaired it as I forgot all about it. Edited July 3, 2012 by NissanNismoZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Anything that claims to meet Dexron III specifications will work. I use Castrol Import Multi Vehicle in my Pathfinder. If you live near Advance Auto Parts, you can order ATF online using discount codes then pick-up in store to save a bunch of money. Some ATFs are excluded from discounts; I'm pretty sure all Valvoline and Mobil 1 ATF are, but Castrol isn't from what I recall. You'll want a 1/4" drive torque wrench for the inch-pound values, and a 3/8" or 1/2" drive torque wrench for the higher values. Harbor Freight sells both for relatively cheap. $12.99 each with coupon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatchugot12 Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 So, if I understand correctly..have the transmission fluid changed even if it's a 97' AT with 184k and I don't know how long ago it was changed? I just bought it and noticed that it can't decide what gear to go with at 40-45mph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatchugot12 Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 So, if I understand correctly..have the transmission fluid changed even if it's a 97' AT with 184k and I don't know how long ago it was changed? I just bought it and noticed that it can't decide what gear to go with at 40-45mph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 yes!....'97 was like 17 years ago! spend the bucks and keep your truck running right! while your at it change the fluid in both diffs, the transfer case and the brake system. not to mention the oil filter, coolant and timing belt, water pump, sparkplugs, air filter,fuel filter and whatever else it takes to keep your truck on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiMachine Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 +1 on the above. Unless you know and trust the PO really well assume nothing has ever been changed, and/or the wrong stuff was put in if it was. To the OP's problem - If the AT light is blinking at startup, then you have a TCU code and should check it. It might provide some insight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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