AlphaGeek Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Hey guys, My '95 XE-V6 has a hole above the exhaust below the rear pass. seat on the drivers side (I understand that's pretty common). I'm thinking of just riveting a piece of galvanized sheet metal to cover the hole and spraying some insulating foam underneath the plate around the edges to seal it. Think this will work? If that's not a good idea, what's the best way to fix the hole? -Arne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 You could do that, but that foam tends to be a moisture magnet and will more than likely progress the rot. Are you handy with a welder? The best was would be to cut out the rotted spot, ten tack in a piece of clean steel. Then seal it with some seam seal or even body filler if you want. On the underside spray the newly added steel with some etching primer and then undercoat it. Not saying the pop rivet idea is a bad one, but I do not agree with foam. Others will chime in, just be careful of giving moisture a home! Do you have any pictures of the hole? That would probably help out a lot as well... Oh yea, WELCOME!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaGeek Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 Thanks for the reply. The foam I'm thinking of is called "Great Stuff" by DOW and claims to be "water resistant" and is apparently meant for sealing and waterproofing stuff outside (cracks, holes, etc.) and it can be painted. Apparently it's non-absorbant... does that change your thinking on it or should I maybe try epoxy instead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 My apologies I assumed you were referring to the household spray foam. Hey if its automotive grade then by all means!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Great stuff is a do it all product. It drys to a very hard none absorbit finish. Although it exspanes rather large (from my usage, sealing a crack in a garage wall) I see it almost daily used on rusted out rocker panels. Its very flamable though when wet. Pop riveting is fine, welding is better. If it was me I would just cut the old stuff out (not really even needed) and the hit it with the foam to fill any cracks (both sides) and then under coat it. On both sides Any piece of metal will last. You dont need galvanized or cladded sheet. If you are welding I acutally advise agaisnt any cladded metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Agree with nismo about metal selection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaGeek Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 Thanks for all the advice. Yeah, if I still had access to a welder I'd go that route for sure and in that case I wouldn't use clad. I can't just foam the hole cause it's, er, LARGE lol - about 8" in diameter. So I figure, I'll cut the sheet about 1 1/2" all around the hole, pre-drill the rivet holes through sheet and body, spray the foam along the edge, then rivet the sheet on. I've got a pro-quality rivet plier and some solid 3/16" x 1/4" deep rivets so I hope it will last for a while. I'll let you know how it turns out. cheers, -Arne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Try to cut out as much of the flaky bits as you can... all the crevices hold water. Is it close to any of the important bits (seat belt mounts etc)? When I found the holes in mine, my dad had a local junkyard cut a couple floor sections out of a junker, and my uncle welded them in... worked great. Of course, while we were waiting, I took some sheet metal from a kerosene can and attached it with sheet metal screws! Kept most of the wind out, anyway. Make sure it's bone dry before you apply the foam, and it'll probably hold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Just wanted to add that I meant to fill the cracks after riveting the sheet in. Some reason a sentance got left from my post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lint Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 fiberglass mat on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 So how is it holding up since the repair? Any pictures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lint Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 2 years on....holding up fine. Sorry, no images as I'm a lousy pic poster. Lets see... I did 2 layers from inside the cab, and then spray bombed rust paint on from underneath. I do a good visual underneath my truck in spring and fall and take care of any wear & tear to get ready for the upcoming "season". Seems like it is holding up...after the exhaust leak was fixed that is... good luck with yours! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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