ahardb0dy Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 what did you pay to have the lines made at Amazon? I called them one day and I forget if I asked for 3' or 2' hoses with AN straight ends on each end and they told me they would be like $20 each, think I asked for the -8 AN connectors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 I don't really remember....I'd say it was under $100 for both but that is a guess. Its been a few years. I may have receipts not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 (edited) What brand adapter is that on the engine side? think I found it, is it a Hayden kit? Looks like it. Part #291 Edited July 28, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Zip ties are not acceptable clamps. I disagree, they proved to be very acceptable clamps... for an immediate short term fix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Shhh!! You should avoid the strength of his alwaysright-fu. Mumble something vague and then compliment his hair... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 I don't really remember....I'd say it was under $100 for both but that is a guess. Its been a few years. I may have receipts not sure. Can you recall how long the lines are you had made? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I think I used as the same kit RF600 and same location. http://s859.photobuc...ilter Relocate/ Had the lines custom made by a place called Amazon hose. Teflon hoses (IIRC) with stainless sleeving. If there was an example of the relocation kit done right, it would be this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I like that adapter, and the lines, (I will have similar lines made with the same ends when I do mine), but I'm not to fond of the filter under the hood. You would still need to put something under it to catch any oil or be REALLY careful when removing the filter. Possibly having the filter up high allows the oil to drain when the engine is off I don't know. I like the filter mounts with the line connections on the top better, keeps the lines away from the filter. But everyone has their own preferences and the setup in the pictures is not mine. It looks good though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I usually use just a towel underneath in case I spill any removing the filter. Usually only a drop or two, but the filter is very full so got to be careful not to tip it. The biggest install issue I recall was getting the ports on the engine side adapter to be at the bottom dead center. Think I had to peen some threads to get the thread insert for the engine side adapter located so it would stop the adapter in the right place. In order to get the hose length, I took the kit to Amazon and bought the correct fittings first. Installed the fittings in the oil filter relocation parts and then installed the kit to the truck. I used some regular black rubber hose to figure out the necessary length. The Teflon hoses are very stiff so it's critical to get the length correct. I could've used like 1/4" more on one of the lines, but it worked out okay. Yes, it is a Hayden kit...the only reason I know for sure is that its what I wrote in my signature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Why did you have to clock ports the engine side adapter? I like that adapter, and the lines, (I will have similar lines made with the same ends when I do mine), but I'm not to fond of the filter under the hood. You would still need to put something under it to catch any oil or be REALLY careful when removing the filter. Possibly having the filter up high allows the oil to drain when the engine is off I don't know. I like the filter mounts with the line connections on the top better, keeps the lines away from the filter. But everyone has their own preferences and the setup in the pictures is not mine. It looks good though. I made a 2 piece mount so when I change the filter I break it loose but don't break the seal, remove 3 bolts and then unscrew the filter holding both the filter and adapter. It's not too hard to do this without spilling any oil and far better than dumping it on the starter and having it drip off of the crossmember/A arm. Besides, I get to run the Fram PH8a size filter... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 (edited) I clocked it so the lines would run side by side and as low as possible to increase clearance to the header. I basically took every precaution I could to avoid a line/hose failure. I didn't want to get stranded in the woods because an oil line blew...not to mention chance of destroying engine. I'm a mechanical engineer by profession so I tend to overdo things a bit, but to me a bit of extra time and money upfront can save big time down the road. Edited July 31, 2012 by andreus009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Ahh, totally different. Yeah, I see how that needs it and would be a pain. Thanks! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 (edited) I have the AN fittings already -8 I believe, I had them when I had the dual filter mount on my hardbody, still have everything minus the hoses. I had the SS lines from transdapt with straight ends but the hoses were cheap didn't like them. Those lines look like they are braided SS, are they Teflon lined? Precise1, any pics of this: "I made a 2 piece mount so when I change the filter I break it loose but don't break the seal, remove 3 bolts and then unscrew the filter holding both the filter and adapter." Edited August 1, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 As my brain recalls it is a Teflon hose with a braided SS jacket. I'd really have to check my paperwork (if I can find it) to be sure. As another small note....if you do pick a hose type, verify that Amazon has it in stock. I ended having to drive to their Tampa store because they ran out of the type of hose I wanted here. My fault really for not checking first and being in a hurry (I had a wheelin trip planned that I didn't want to miss) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 DAMN IT ! just saw you are in Orlando !! We're neighbors !! I went to the Amazon on OBT and Princeton, they fixed 2 of my metal AC lines for my Sentra, We should get together one weekend, do a junkyard run or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 This is a forum, not a personal... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 PM sent. LOL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Precise1, any pics of this: "I made a 2 piece mount so when I change the filter I break it loose but don't break the seal, remove 3 bolts and then unscrew the filter holding both the filter and adapter." Apparently not (I checked), but I'll take a few shots for you today. This is a forum, not a personal... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 I'm curious myself about why you needed a 2 piece mount. The relocation adapter should make things easier, not harder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Hush. No 'need' about it, it is what worked out the way I wanted it with what I had on hand. I don't view 3 bolts in plain view/access a challenge. There was an electrical 'tree' there held several connectors. I removed that and used the mounting points for a flat piece of aluminum as the base. I realized that it was too low and hard to get to so I used a piece of aluminum C channel as a riser for the filter mount, bolting everything together. When I do an oil filter change, I break the oil filter loose, remove 3 bolts, move it/position it so there are no drips (or into an appropriate container), unscrew the filter, screw the new one, replace 3 bolts and have a beer. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 I guess that's acceptable but those Nissan OEM double wire clamps suck. Solid band clamps are much better. Still much better than zip ties though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Is the metal the bolts go into threaded or do you have to deal with nuts as well? Was going to say if the metal is threaded may be easier to screw 3 threaded rods in with loctite and than just remove 3 nuts on top, but it's your design and if your happy with it that is all that matters right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 No, the holes in the top of the C channel were tapped so all you have to do is remove the 3 bolts upward. I'm a machinist, after all! If I wanted to go all Indy pit crew, I could use only 2 titanium bolts... That was the 'prototype' for fitment that actually turned out good enough. It aint broke, so it don't need no fixin'. There is a lot of that on my truck. Could it be better, yes. Is it worth fixing, no. I guess that's acceptable but those Nissan OEM double wire clamps suck. Solid band clamps are much better. Still much better than zip ties though. Well, as long as you find it acceptable... You are totally wrong about the clamps though. They are not Nissan OEM for one, I'm not sure where you got that from. Also, they do not suck. Furthermore band clamps (I'm assuming worm gear?) are not necessarily better. It is a matter of application, my dear pinhead. I used the right sized wire clamp to secure the hose to the barbed fitting. A band clamp will squeeze the hose around the high point of the barb, only giving you one sealing point and possibly cutting into the hose its self. A properly located wire clamp will give 2 sealing surfaces (2 lands of the barb) as it straddles one of the high points without cutting into the hose. Do you see any evidence of any leakage, ever? No. You have even failed clampology 101 so you should refrain from making absolute statements until you have caught up. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 (edited) 10-4, as I said it's your truck, I have no problem with how you did was just saying that's all. One day I'll do mine. Thanks for posting the pic, was curious on what you meant by 2 piece adapter. Good explanation on the clamps, they do look like factory Nissan style clamps, never thought about the way the wire clamps sit on the barbs, GOOD DEAL!! Edited August 5, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 No, the holes in the top of the C channel were tapped so all you have to do is remove the 3 bolts upward. I'm a machinist, after all! If I wanted to go all Indy pit crew, I could use only 2 titanium bolts... That was the 'prototype' for fitment that actually turned out good enough. It aint broke, so it don't need no fixin'. There is a lot of that on my truck. Could it be better, yes. Is it worth fixing, no. Well, as long as you find it acceptable... You are totally wrong about the clamps though. They are not Nissan OEM for one, I'm not sure where you got that from. Also, they do not suck. Furthermore band clamps (I'm assuming worm gear?) are not necessarily better. It is a matter of application, my dear pinhead. I used the right sized wire clamp to secure the hose to the barbed fitting. A band clamp will squeeze the hose around the high point of the barb, only giving you one sealing point and possibly cutting into the hose its self. A properly located wire clamp will give 2 sealing surfaces (2 lands of the barb) as it straddles one of the high points without cutting into the hose. Do you see any evidence of any leakage, ever? No. You have even failed clampology 101 so you should refrain from making absolute statements until you have caught up. B There are solid worm style clamps without the slats, those work the best. The double wire things make sense for a barbed fitting though but that's actually not the most ideal fitting to use anyway. For a regular fitting, the worm clamps work much better. The double wire things just dig more into the hose rather than actually clamp it and over time can actually make the hose tear off as it expands from heat. Who's failing now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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