Patty Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Hello Guys, I'm looking for some opinions on whether to install a new axle or just replace the outer CV boot of my stock 1998 pathfinder. I was out on the trails yesterday and I noticed a little cracking coming from the front end, i had a look never saw anything so on my way I went. The noise went away...... but after I got home i had another look and noticed my CV boot was cracked. I have no idea how long it has been like that. So considering it is the original axle and I will need a mechanic to do the work, would you just replace the axle and be done with it? From what I read it won't be much of a difference in price since it takes more labor to replace the boot. Any thoughts? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 If you're taking it to a shop, just have them replace the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Be careful of the cheap china cv half shafts. They are not as strong as the factory nissan half shafts. This was a new GSP half shaft (not rebuilt) GSP laughed at me when I asked them to cover it under their lifetime warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clkindred Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Yea if the joint is still good I would try to hang on to it. I think/hope that noise you heard was un-related. As long as the joint has not been run dry without grease and there are no play in it I think it should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Yea if the joint is still good I would try to hang on to it. I think/hope that noise you heard was un-related. As long as the joint has not been run dry without grease and there are no play in it I think it should be fine. In addition Dirt is a CV joints worst enemy. It will grind away at the joint until it is so loose that it is not worth repacking with grease and a new boot. I saved my factory nissan half shafts after my boots ripped. I then cleaned them repacked them and put new boots on them and put them on the shelf. when my GSP hald shaft broke I just swapped 1 of original ones back in. I still keep a look out on rock auto for the boot kits to go on sale. I picked up 12 of the outer boots for 2.59 each. Still need 12 inners, mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patty Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 I think I will just replace the whole shaft and if the old one is in decent shape I will just replace the boot myself and hold onto it! Seems to be the logical thing to do. I also noticed when i was stuck and I pumped the gas I had a loud clunk in the front end, no idea what the heck that could be.... I will have to get that checked out also..Old Patty has been nothing but issues since I bought it haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WheelinintheR50 Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 i just replaced a half shaft and the boots on the other side. i replaced the half shaft in my driveway in about an hour and a half. it wasnt hard at all and im lifted. i payed $65 for the half shaft and it held up to some hard wheelin so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howie Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 When I had a cracked boot, I replaced the whole shaft, and then replaced the boot on the old shaft to have a spare. Now I noticed the new boot is leaking, so all I have to do is replace it with the spare old shaft/new boot combo, and bring the broken one in under warranty. Definitely do it yourself. It's good to be able to know how to do and all you need is a wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patty Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 Would this be close to the same procedure? I couldn't find a video on a pathfinder. If that's all it is I will give it a go myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 unfortunately, not as easy as in the video. You have to remove the auto locking hub and then to get it out you will have to either break loose the upper ball joint and Tie rod end or just the lower ball joint. It is not that hard. just a few more steps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patty Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 That's too bad...my mechanical skills are far below average, probably have to bring it to the shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 (edited) When it comes down to it, it's just nuts and bolts, and a snap ring. It involves jacking up the front end, removing the wheel, removing the small hubcap covering the axle snap ring, and removing the snap ring. To provide enough space to pull the CV out, you remove 3 14mm nuts from the bottom of the ball joint, so that you can swing the A-arm down and out of the way. Then remove the 6 12mm bolts holding the inner joint to the differential and pull the CV axle toward the center of the vehicle to remove it from the hub. There's sometimes a removable bushing/collar/spacer on the outer part of the CV axle that needs to be moved to the new one. Installation is basically reverse of removal. If you do not own a floor jack and/or jack stands, you're not comfortable using a lug wrench or 3/8" drive ratchet with some 12mm and 14mm sockets and some extensions, or if your time is worth more than $100/hr, it's probably wiser to pay a qualified mechanic to do the work. Edited May 1, 2012 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patty Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 XPLORx4 you do make it sound doable! I might give it a try, but in the meantime I was thinking about possible trying to install one of those slit boots myself. I found one at crappy tire for pretty cheap and I hear you don't even have to remove the joint to do it. http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/DriveTrain/UCVJointsDriveShaft/PRD~0151908P/Dorman+Universal+Quick+CV+Boot.jsp?locale=en&isAutomotivePrd=true&tireSku=0151973&auto_type=part&icid=AutoSelector_PartsAccessories_1998+NISSAN-DATSUN+PATHFINDER+V6-3275+3.3L+SOHC_Drivetrain_0151973_ViewDetails Has anyone used one of these before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Split boots are generally a band-aid fix. they do not work for very long. They eventually end up spraying grease all over the place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 (edited) I personally wouldn't advise using a split boot as a permanent fix. Split boots are probably better for emergency or temporary use until you can replace the whole CV axle. http://www.raxles.com/splitboots.aspx http://answers.yahoo...14003600AAoDStL Edited May 1, 2012 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgallant Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Yup Split boots go in the trail box, they will get you home but most fail inside of 500 km. I carry a spare CV, a split boot and CV grease. So far I have not needed them but better safe than sorry. If you do carry a spare CV check the bolts every now and then, you can always hit them with some PB and make sure you can remove them before you leave home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick13 Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 (edited) I think changing a CV is a great first wrenching project. Unbolting the lower control arm can make it a bit quicker. I changed one in about 45 minutes and I am in NO WAY an experienced self-wrencher. Keeping the original and rebooting I'd also recommend. I don't think the "core charge" is worth giving it to a parts store. Also, I've been running the GSP for some time now and have been through some of the toughest wheeling my vehicle has ever seen...and she's still holding strong. Just throwing that out there cause the price is definitely right, especially with a 20% discount code for Advance Auto or the like. Just my so take it for what its worth. Edited May 2, 2012 by Rick13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I think changing a CV is a great first wrenching project. Unbolting the lower control arm can make it a bit quicker. I changed one in about 45 minutes and I am in NO WAY an experienced self-wrencher. Keeping the original and rebooting I'd also recommend. I don't think the "core charge" is worth giving it to a parts store. Also, I've been running the GSP for some time now and have been through some of the toughest wheeling my vehicle has ever seen...and she's still holding strong. Just throwing that out there cause the price is definitely right, especially with a 20% discount code for Advance Auto or the like. Just my so take it for what its worth. Yep I definitely got a defective one. I could see an air pocket in the end where it broke. I bought it from rock auto and they no longer carry GSP (due to warranty acceptance problems) I hope advanced auto does not ditch GSP and no longer accept warranty. I contacted GSP Directly and they ignored my warranty request. I am also runnning a front arb locker and that put a bit more strain on the half shafts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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