Dizer92Pathfinder Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 how Fu#%ing tight are the torque converter bolts? I broke a 14mm 3/8 drive socket trying to break them free .. I can't even break one of them loose. I got the tranny to move about 3/4 inch back with out removing rear drive line. And removed the lower shield and now i am fumbling around with the other plate between the engine and tranny to were we can get a socket on the bolts from drivers side. and Snapped a socket . I am now looking for a 14mm 1/2 inch drive socket for my impact wrench . HELP !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizer92Pathfinder Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 alright ! got the Torque converter bolts out .... YAH!!! taking a break now . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Then you gotta put them back in that tight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizer92Pathfinder Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 yeah. Engine Will be out by the end of the night . Between kids,my fiance,friends,and family damn , I just want my Pathy done. lol . She will not be DONE for awhile but the engine will be the Shi# VG33E. So anxious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 (edited) Glad to hear you are underway! I like what Precise said about blocks under the trans when you get it shifted back. I am not sure what kind of hoist/ceiling arrangement you have, but I had to take the tires off and drop the whole vehicle down to get the oil pan to clear the top of the rad... If you are doing the trans jack plan, I suspect lowering the vehicle might be tough. If your ceiling is low or your hoist has a limited height. Just throwing that out there. Have at it. Edited April 18, 2012 by OlBlue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Then you gotta put them back in that tight A good trick here when you're putting the new engine in is to bolt the engine to the transmission with the RH motor mount and the P/S pump NOT attached to the engine. This gives you enough room to use a long extension and a torque wrench in front of the motor. You can also keep the crank from turning with a socket and breaker bar in one hand while torquing the TC bolts with the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizer92Pathfinder Posted April 21, 2012 Author Share Posted April 21, 2012 I have an A frame with a 1.5 ton chain hoist the rolls on the top iron beam. Lifting the engine is light work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizer92Pathfinder Posted April 21, 2012 Author Share Posted April 21, 2012 Anyone recommend engine mounts ? Hydralic or Solid? Were to buy some good but cheaper side of the scale? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 I have an A frame with a 1.5 ton chain hoist the rolls on the top iron beam. Lifting the engine is light work! Well that ought to do it! I wish I would have though of leaving the PS pump and mount off for the install, that is a good tip 510! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MMushovic Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 > where is the access plate? ... (this) is an auto(matic) transmission. RE4R01A to be exact. I can see the fly wheel from starter hole but cant see any bolt. Did anyone ever get a photo of this? How do you unbolt the torque converter form the flywheel before removing the transmission from the vehicle? Or, can you get the transmission out and then worry about removing the torque converter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 the plate is between the starter and the block 2 bolts hold it to the block, remove it and start removing the converter bolts when I did my 88 auto I had everything disconnected and jacked the front of the tranny up as far as it would go, that gave me enough clearance to clear the flex plate from the bellhousing didn't do anything else to the tranny. I'm working on a 88 5 speed now and I"m going to try and slide the tranny back, hope it works. hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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