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Bushings, where to buy and what kind?


EmptyV
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Hey everyone it's been a long ass time since I've been on here. Well the Baja Beast has 250,000 miles on her and needs pretty much every bushing replaced with exception to the trailing arms. Should I go OEM or Poly? If I go poly should I get them from 4x4parts or is there a company that has decent customer service and is much more deserving of my hard earned money?

 

Thanks!

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i know this is off subject...but dang youve got 250,000 miles on your '01? You must drive everywhere!!

 

ive considered getting OEM bushing, but others here can probably tell you that poly will be better...im sure you'll pay more up front but might last longer...

 

i havent decided yet either... :scratchhead:

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Well I ended up spending about $300 on poly bushing from 4x4parts. Not too happy about it but it had to be done. Supposedly this will yield a more rigid ride and will outlast the car. Who knows how many more miles I can put on this thing anyway. Yeah 250,000 is a lot and I've needed a new car for a really long time but I could never get rid of the Baja Beast.

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Wow, 250k is indeed a milestone. You're definitely doing things right. What oil & filter do you use and what's the change interval, out of curiosity? Is any oil consumed?

 

Hope the poly bushings serve you well.

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I'm 800 away from hitting 250K, I'll be sure to take a pic. I use Mobile 1 and the cheap napa filters. I have yet to burn a drop of oil and change it about every 4K. I am leaking ATF like a sieve though. I've got a sensor called the sensor revolution turbine in the bottom of my AT that's housing must have cracked and ATF is drooling out of it down through the wire's sleeve. I'm finally dropping it off tomorrow to get replaced along with the bushings. I ordered the split trailing arm bushings and will try to do those myself since you don't need a 35 ton press. Luckily my friend just opened up a shop and I can use his lift. I also ordered the pan hard rod bushings. If you saw what 250K miles looks like on stock bushings you'd probably slap me. Horrible steering wheel shake and loud clunking whenever I hit a bump. :headwall:

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What grade M1? By "cheap NAPA filters" are you referring to the Pro-Selects? Those are made by Wix and are well built for the price; you can certainly do much worse (Fram ExtraGuard or e-core filters, which use a nylon cage instead of a steel center tube). I find it a little odd to pair a high-end oil like Mobil 1 with cheaper filters, but there's obviously no problem in doing so as evidenced by your engine's condition. A 4k change interval is a little low IMO for a top-tier synthetic, but I believe our VQ35s are fairly hard on oil and it can shear out of grade fairly quickly. I'm running Mobil 1 0W-40 & an M1 EP-110 filter right now out to 7,500 miles and will get a used oil analysis done to evaluate the condition of the oil. If it's all good, I'll probably continue running M1 or pretty much any other synthetic oil at 7.5k change intervals.

 

Are you talking about the turbine revolution sensor? Looks like that's on top of the trans case :scratchhead:

Edited by Towncivilian
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I ordered the split trailing arm bushings and will try to do those myself since you don't need a 35 ton press. Luckily my friend just opened up a shop and I can use his lift. I also ordered the pan hard rod bushings.

 

I want the panhard rod bushings. I dont knwo why or how I havent orderred them yet. Probably the eqasiest of the rear end bushings to

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What grade M1? By "cheap NAPA filters" are you referring to the Pro-Selects? Those are made by Wix and are well built for the price; you can certainly do much worse (Fram ExtraGuard or e-core filters, which use a nylon cage instead of a steel center tube). I find it a little odd to pair a high-end oil like Mobil 1 with cheaper filters, but there's obviously no problem in doing so as evidenced by your engine's condition. A 4k change interval is a little low IMO for a top-tier synthetic, but I believe our VQ35s are fairly hard on oil and it can shear out of grade fairly quickly. I'm running Mobil 1 0W-40 & an M1 EP-110 filter right now out to 7,500 miles and will get a used oil analysis done to evaluate the condition of the oil. If it's all good, I'll probably continue running M1 or pretty much any other synthetic oil at 7.5k change intervals.

 

Are you talking about the turbine revolution sensor? Looks like that's on top of the trans case :scratchhead:

 

Wait, Fram filters are no good?

 

:ohmy:

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Wait, Fram filters are no good?

 

:ohmy:

They have lousy construction for what you pay for them. Fiber end caps, relatively low amount of filtering media, combination nitrile anti-drainback valve and bypass valve... no way in hell I'm paying $5something for one of those. I wouldn't be opposed to running one if I got it for free, but it definitely isn't my first choice. A Purolator Classic for $3.27 at Wal-Mart is a better choice. The only Fram I'd run is an XtendedGuard which is built like a tank.

Edited by Towncivilian
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