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Is adding a Tranny Filter "really" a good idea?


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I know for the obvious reasons why it would be a good idea, but won't adding a filter cause the Tranny Oil PUMP work harder than it was designed to, and thus cause a Transmission Failure anyway? Thus, wouldn't adding a filter actually defeat the ultimate purpose?

 

As it is, there is only a simple "strainer" as a filter in the Tranny. Thus, wouldn't adding a "fine" filter in the system put strain on the pump that would cause it to wear out?

 

Or, is it actually easy & accessible to change the tranny pump or no? Even if it is easy, wouldn't pump failure still cause damage, thus too late anyway?

 

I would love to add a filter for the good reasons we know, but it seems to me doing so might be actually adding to the problem, and it all equals out in the end?

 

Thoughts?

 

BTW, I think I remember reading that one can add an "inline" filter that works as a "magnet" to grab the harmful stuff rather than going through a filter. Is this likely a better way?

Edited by leeuniverse
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Magnefines have been tested by Ford and they restrict flow only negligibly. They were even tested backwards. Ford issued the Magnefine their own part number and used it as standard equipment after a remanufacture/rebuild of a transmission. The bypass valve in the Magnefine prevents a clogged filter from stopping flow.

 

Magnefine filters contain filtering media in the range of 35 microns, as well as a powerful donut magnet to catch all ferrous wear material, leading to a slightly higher efficiency than 35 microns ultimately.

 

Just install a Magnefine (I'm not so sure of the construction of the other "clones") and sleep well at night. You're overthinking this.

 

EDIT: Even your typical "fine filtering" full-flow oil filter, such as a Purolator PureONE with its 99.9% efficiency at 20 microns (for all except the four smallest filters; PL14610, PL14612 and their SAE-threaded equivalents are rated at 99.9% at 40 microns; this filter is spec'd for many Nissan vehicles, but I'm not sure about the WD21s), flows quite well. See this thread.

Edited by Towncivilian
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If you want to go another route you can always install an Amsoil bypass Filter. It directs 10-20% of the oil through the filter leaving the rest unrestricted. The bypass filter is a fine filter and can filter out the whole oil supply in a short time. I don't have a link for you but search their website and do some homework.

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That is an overcomplicated install; you can tee both the inlet and outlet lines for the transmission cooler into a spin-on filter mount and the differential pressure between the lines will create a "bypass" filter, filtering only a small portion of the fluid at any given time. If the filter clogs, no big deal. This has the advantage of being able to use a much finer filtering media in the range of 3 microns or less. Stick several hard drive magnets on the exterior to catch ferrous debris and you're set, just change the filter once in a while (first change early, maybe, since it'll load up with contaminants fairly quickly) and transfer the magnets over. Such a setup can also be used for filtering coolant; tee the heater core inlet and outlet hoses and use a specialized coolant filter (without SCA additive) and base (generally 11/16" threaded), but I digress at this point.

Edited by Towncivilian
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The tranny pressure has been rated at 100 PSI (parroting, not investigated) so going through a filter shouldn't be an issue. A filter might slow the flow, but I doubt there will be any dangerous back pressure in the system. I'd rather filter the flow than have max flow. What I don't like about the Magnafine filters is the bypass; it can clog and do you no good, without you realizing. While there are several different options for ATF filtering, I am going with a simple, quality spin off filter (easily changed) along with a temperature sensor. If flow was ever impeded to where it affected cooling, I'll know about it right away... ;)

 

B

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Hmmm.... So Lubeman..... I was able to get Dowsers bypass filter idea, but I couldn't rap my brain around your bypass version.

Is there any videos/instructions etc. on your version?

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Is this a serious thread? :whistle:

 

Of course, filters on a transmission are the best idea. Personally, I would get a Fleetguard 6500 type filter because it's so much bigger than a Magnefine and the maintenance intervals aren't as short. Any filter that you use will work and is recommended by transmission experts.

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That is an overcomplicated install; you can tee both the inlet and outlet lines for the transmission cooler into a spin-on filter mount and the differential pressure between the lines will create a "bypass" filter, filtering only a small portion of the fluid at any given time. If the filter clogs, no big deal. This has the advantage of being able to use a much finer filtering media in the range of 3 microns or less. Stick several hard drive magnets on the exterior to catch ferrous debris and you're set, just change the filter once in a while (first change early, maybe, since it'll load up with contaminants fairly quickly) and transfer the magnets over. Such a setup can also be used for filtering coolant; tee the heater core inlet and outlet hoses and use a specialized coolant filter (without SCA additive) and base (generally 11/16" threaded), but I digress at this point.

 

 

I was merely pointing him in the direction of a product available. Truth be told your way would be MUCH MUCH cheaper and easier if you are able to understand the principles, but I figured some people just want a product to buy instead of trying to figure stuff out.

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Actually that's a wonderful professional looking diagram..... Good job. Makes perfect sense.

So that actually works huh? Have you seen that done before? I'm just concerned that the flow would get stuck a bit at the bypass and/or there not be as good a flow going through the cooler, and thus raise oil temp?

 

I guess I would then use the Amsoil setup or whatever type of filter type system I want?

 

All seems like a lot of work. Maybe I should just keep it simple and create a simple "inline" filter like how a gas filter works? That "magnet" idea was kinda cool also.

Edited by leeuniverse
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I haven't done it myself. I'd install a coolant filter, but the heater core hoses on my 2001.5 R50 are in a poorly accessible position. As far as I know, if the filter gets clogged, there won't be a significant drop in oil flow since it's not a full-flow filter.

 

The Amsoil setup is really more suited for engine oil bypass filtration and requires some drilling. This "cheapo" setup doesn't require any - just the filter, its base, hoses, hose clamps, and a tool to cut the existing hoses with.

 

The Magnefine really is the simplest way to add decent filtration to the transmission fluid circuit. Even if it goes into bypass, ferrous contaminants will still be caught by the magnet. I'd say the only failure point is if the bypass fails to function (if the filter is installed backwards, or it is defective). If it's a defective bypass, I'd imagine Magnefine would owe you a new transmission.

 

See pictures of a Magnefine unscrewed with 23,000 miles on it here.

Edited by Towncivilian
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Wow... That's amazing it caught so much crap. It really shows you that Car Manufacturers aren't really designing their products to last, because with that kind of buildup, you would think a filter like that would be standard for a Tranny.

 

Well, I think the easiest way for me to go is with a Magnefine...... But, I can't decide yet if I should do it "inline" or do your bypass method.

I really can't set up a "fancy" screw on filter bypass, mine or the inline would have to be like your example, down below the radiator etc. where all the hoses and lines are.

 

Update: Well, I've decided I think to just go the "inline" method for now. It's apparently a recommended product, so I shouldn't be worried about it restricting flow. Really have to go the cheap and easy install way now anyway.

 

Thanks for the discussion guys, it's been a good learning process, and I'm sure useful to others.

Edited by leeuniverse
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That looks like a good option as well for those who can set up the fancy hook-up setup, me no money for that yet.

That filter is apparently designed specifically for lower pressure fluids, and certainly easier to change.

 

What hook-up setup did you use to connect that filter to? (for those of us who would like to do that in the future)

 

Thanks

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