Tungsten Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 ^^^^^ Would that cause a lifter type nosie? When I pulled my VC off (to do lifters) I did notice there was a clean spot where it looked like the cam lobes where hitting the lifter guide... This noise is driving me nuts. You bet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 I listened to it very carefully today. I think I may have busted a vacuum hose or something while doing my swap. My engine was idling a bit higher than usual. It was idling around 1650RPM and stayed there for a good 5 mins. Then it slowly dropped to 1500, 1450, 1400, and around 1300 when I said hell with it and drove it around the block. I was at a red light and did notice it was eventually down to around 650rpm in neutral. Anyway, I didn't take the accessory belts off. I didn't have time and didn't want to figure that stuff out in the dark. I listened to an old video clip I had and it used to sound like a genuine hard knock. Now it sounds like something a little softer. So I think I fixed the loudest problem while discovering the quieter one. I wouldn't describe it as a knock. The word "knock" sounds really harsh and kind of reverberating. I have the ticking which matches engine speed and it slowly went away when the engine got warm. I also have this squeak coming from the engine. It's like once every 1-2 seconds. That's what scared me. When someone described to me what a rod knock was, I instantly thought that the squeaking was from the rod sliding back and forth on the crank journal. I haven't driven it much since the transmission swap, maybe 12 miles at the most. 5 miles back to my house...3 miles to get a christmas tree. Driven it around the block two or three times. About the vacuum lines, I think I'm noticing a little bit of engine stutter or hesitation. The other day, I caught a very SLIGHT glimpse. It was a VERY small kind of..choke, or hiccup. Today, I couldn't get the thing over 3k RPM!! I was driving through an intersection and I was up to about 2,850 RPM and I was accelerating. The engine came to 3k rpm and it sounded like it was wheezing. It kept brushing up against 3k rpm. It would be like..3,000 then 2,950 then 3,000 then 2,900 then I shifted because I was scared. I usually hate revving it in neutral (that's what revving means, right? lol), but I was very curious about what just happened. I revved it up to 3,200 rpm with no problem. I didn't feel like going around the block again and trying to get it up to 3k rpm <--still don't have a muffler eek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 I listened to it very carefully today. I listened to an old video clip I had and it used to sound like a genuine hard knock. Now it sounds like something a little softer. So I think I fixed the loudest problem while discovering the quieter one. I wouldn't describe it as a knock. The word "knock" sounds really harsh and kind of reverberating. I have the ticking which matches engine speed and it slowly went away when the engine got warm. I also have this squeak coming from the engine. It's like once every 1-2 seconds. That's what scared me. When someone described to me what a rod knock was, I instantly thought that the squeaking was from the rod sliding back and forth on the crank journal. A knock is a knock, not a tap or a sqeak. The sqeak is probly a belt or drive pully (probly the ac belt). The tap from what you say is now damn near 100 percent a lifter in my book, and that means nothing. This is a video of a 300i6 knocking And a injector tick just too throw you off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Probably a stuck lifter. Had the same issue with mine and a half a quart of ATF cleared it up pretty quick the first time. It came back a week later so I put more in and it's been quiet since. As for not revving, sounds like a MAF problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 Probably a stuck lifter. Had the same issue with mine and a half a quart of ATF cleared it up pretty quick the first time. It came back a week later so I put more in and it's been quiet since. As for not revving, sounds like a MAF problem. I just discovered that my tank is empty. I think my engine was choking because I was getting to the bottom of the tank. The gas in the tank had been sitting for about 2 months. I only parked it with 1/8 tank left. condensation..crud. Idk. I started it up to let it idle so I could even more carefully listen to the noise. I started to take my glove box off to clean the blower resistor area and all of the sudden... Here's what happened. It was sitting around 1,600 RPM. That's still a little high in my book. I didn't touch the ECU, so I'm not sure what's up It dropped down to 1,300 quite suddenly. And the exhaust was puffing. I could hear each puff of the exhaust at 1,300 RPM. That's strange. Then it dropped down to 900 RPM suddenly. It seemed like it was struggling to get back to up 1,300 RPM. It settled at about 1,100 RPM for a half second Then dropped to 900 rpm for a half second. THEN puff puff puff..puff puff...puff....stall. I'm pretty sure my MAF is perfect. I recently cleaned it off and I didn't break it while doing that. I've driven it probably 20 miles since I cleaned the MAF, so I think it's working fine. I'm confused about lifters.. what is it that happens to them at causes the tap? I thought it was lack of oil pressure that causes it? I heard what actually happens to the lifters is that they collapse or something? They still function somewhat, but they are compromised and should be replaced. The myth is (Towncivilian disputes it) that ATF contains more detergents than engine oil. If so, what would these extra detergents to do help a lifter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 sounds like the engine isn't getting enough fuel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 I just discovered that my tank is empty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 (edited) I've read successful anecdotes of people on BITOG putting MMO in their crankcase to quiet down lifters. Use that instead of using ATF if you feel the need to add something to your oil. The two are similar in viscosity, but MMO actually has some detergents - primarily phosphorous and mineral spirits, and a bit of boron to act as an anti-wear agent and friction reducer (see MMO's MSDS explained here by an oil tribologist). I'm not so sure it's the detergents in MMO or whatever you throw in your crankcase that helps the lifters, it's probably the resulting thinner oil mixture that helps free stuck lifters because it flows easier, unless you add something like Lucas snot which will result in a thicker oil which might just muffle the sound of lifter tick. Edited December 25, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 I've read successful anecdotes of people on BITOG putting MMO in their crankcase to quiet down lifters. Use that instead of using ATF if you feel the need to add something to your oil. The two are similar in viscosity, but MMO actually has some detergents - primarily phosphorous and mineral spirits, and a bit of boron to act as an anti-wear agent and friction reducer (see MMO's MSDS explained here by an oil tribologist). I'm not so sure it's the detergents in MMO or whatever you throw in your crankcase that helps the lifters, it's probably the resulting thinner oil mixture that helps free stuck lifters because it flows easier, unless you add something like Lucas snot which will result in a thicker oil which might just muffle the sound of lifter tick. where would I find such a magical substance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 (edited) Oh, sorry, MMO = Marvel Mystery Oil. You can find it at Wal-Mart and pretty much any parts store. Their instructions say to substitute 20% of your motor oil's quantity with MMO, i.e. if you have a 5qt sump, use 4qts of motor oil and 1qt MMO. It's safe to use for an entire oil change, and probably not a bad idea to run during winter for easier starts since it thins out the oil. Maybe go with a pint to avoid excessively thinning the oil, I don't quite recall how much it thins a typical 5W-30. You don't necessarily need to change the oil to add MMO, just drop in a pint or whatever, overfilling will be alright as long as it's not over a quart or some ridiculous amount I think. Some of it may evaporate/burn off after a couple thousand miles. I've never used MMO except in the gas a few times, YMMV. If you want additional reading, there's a giant 14 page thread on BITOG here and general search results for "mmo" on BITOG here. Edited December 25, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 Oh, sorry, MMO = Marvel Mystery Oil. You can find it at Wal-Mart and pretty much any parts store. Their instructions say to substitute 20% of your motor oil's quantity with MMO, i.e. if you have a 5qt sump, use 4qts of motor oil and 1qt MMO. It's safe to use for an entire oil change, and probably not a bad idea to run during winter for easier starts since it thins out the oil. Maybe go with a pint to avoid excessively thinning the oil, I don't quite recall how much it thins a typical 5W-30. You don't necessarily need to change the oil to add MMO, just drop in a pint or whatever, overfilling will be alright as long as it's not over a quart or some ridiculous amount I think. Some of it may evaporate/burn off after a couple thousand miles. I've never used MMO except in the gas a few times, YMMV. If you want additional reading, there's a giant 14 page thread on BITOG here and general search results for "mmo" on BITOG here. marvel mystery oil? That sounds even more questionable than Lucas stuff. I'll have a look. I love your links Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 How is 5W-30 too thin? Any xW-30 grade oil will have viscosity within a 30 grade, whether it be synthetic or conventional. All oil is too thick than necessary below operating temperature, so the thinner the oil is below that, the better - in other words, the lower the "W" number, the better for cold weather operation and for minimizing start-up wear and maximizing fuel efficiency while the engine is not at operating temperature. See this chart. I'm not saying not to run a thicker oil during the summer if desired, there's no harm in that since usually the ambient temperature is high enough that the difference between a 5W and a 10W is negligible. Oh, sorry, MMO = Marvel Mystery Oil. You can find it at Wal-Mart and pretty much any parts store. Their instructions say to substitute 20% of your motor oil's quantity with MMO, i.e. if you have a 5qt sump, use 4qts of motor oil and 1qt MMO. It's safe to use for an entire oil change, and probably not a bad idea to run during winter for easier starts since it thins out the oil. Maybe go with a pint to avoid excessively thinning the oil, I don't quite recall how much it thins a typical 5W-30. You don't necessarily need to change the oil to add MMO, just drop in a pint or whatever, overfilling will be alright as long as it's not over a quart or some ridiculous amount I think. Some of it may evaporate/burn off after a couple thousand miles. I've never used MMO except in the gas a few times, YMMV. If you want additional reading, there's a giant 14 page thread on BITOG here and general search results for "mmo" on BITOG here. So first you explain what the oil grades and thickness mean, then you suggest topping off with an unknown amount of Marvel Snake Oil (overfilling) and driving a full change interval, never mind the burn off? Oh, BTW, you've never done it? Really? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 (edited) So first you explain what the oil grades and thickness mean, then you suggest topping off with an unknown amount of Marvel Snake Oil (overfilling) and driving a full change interval, never mind the burn off? Oh, BTW, you've never done it? Really? B Nowhere in my posts did I say "throw this $3.94 quart of snot in your crankcase". I posted that there is a significant amount of anecdotal data that claimed MMO was successful in freeing stuck lifters and doing some slow, gentle cleaning and linked to said data to have the OP decide whether to run it or not. As for overfilling, it is reasonable to assume that quantities over one quart extra can result in the crankshaft hitting oil and causing aeration, which obviously is not good. There is probably some margin to allow slight overfilling - after all, quick lube shops make mistakes and sometimes over or underfill and we don't read too many stories about people's engines blowing up as a result. Edited December 25, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 I'd start with putting some &^%*ing gas in it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 I run thicker oil on purpose with overpriced gear lube Lucas 99% of my personal oil changes (1 time I didn't just to prove to myself my truck takes 5 full quarts, not the 4.whatever the rest of the world takes for some reason and didn't want 'not fully settled' Lucas to be a factor)... I personally ain't going to put something that THINS my oil into my engine. Bring in the Smoke-ShowSea-foam junkies and make the base additive products trifecta complete! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 I run thicker oil on purpose with overpriced gear lube Lucas 99% of my personal oil changes (1 time I didn't just to prove to myself my truck takes 5 full quarts, not the 4.whatever the rest of the world takes for some reason and didn't want 'not fully settled' Lucas to be a factor)... I personally ain't going to put something that THINS my oil into my engine. Bring in the Smoke-ShowSea-foam junkies and make the base additive products trifecta complete! LOL!!! Lucas, MMO and Sea-foam. Let's put all our cars on drugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 I run thicker oil on purpose with overpriced gear lube Lucas 99% of my personal oil changes (1 time I didn't just to prove to myself my truck takes 5 full quarts, not the 4.whatever the rest of the world takes for some reason and didn't want 'not fully settled' Lucas to be a factor)... I personally ain't going to put something that THINS my oil into my engine. Bring in the Smoke-ShowSea-foam junkies and make the base additive products trifecta complete! 5 quarts? Are you mad? The FSM calls for 3 5/8 quarts and that's with the oil filter on. You can use your additives and make that an even 4 quarts but no more than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 5 quarts? Are you mad? The FSM calls for 3 5/8 quarts and that's with the oil filter on. You can use your additives and make that an even 4 quarts but no more than that. exactly what I was thinking, but I didn't want to question it. "to prove to myself that my truck takes 5 quarts" um...no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 (edited) I'd start with putting some &^%*ing gas in it. Now theres a good &^%*ing idea. I run thicker oil on purpose with overpriced gear lube Lucas 99% of my personal oil changes (1 time I didn't just to prove to myself my truck takes 5 full quarts, not the 4.whatever the rest of the world takes for some reason and didn't want 'not fully settled' Lucas to be a factor)... I personally ain't going to put something that THINS my oil into my engine. Bring in the Smoke-ShowSea-foam junkies and make the base additive products trifecta complete! Agreed, I used too run MMO,Seafoam, B12, snake oil and Stay-Togeather-Please in all my trucks. Now I settle for a engine flush every 30k using Gunk. Buts thats a idle for 10 minutes and then change other wise it may kill your botton end stuff. MMO works, but all it does is clean your engine/injectors/valves depending on were you use it. I mean its a solvent, people use it too free stuck rings and to remove cylinder wall glaze. Do you really want a solvent in your oil? STP and Lucas are heavy weight oils with additives that do the same thing. If I were to run anything for the duration of a change it would by STP or lucas, since it doesnt thin the oil out. For cleaning the fuel system it would be one of the solvent based fluids (MMO,B12, Seafoam) But thats just me, I'm not holding your head under water demanding that you believe in the all mighty god STP (or MMO,b-12, etc.) Edited December 25, 2011 by nismothunder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 I go through this in every oil capacity based post I make, I know what the FSM sais it "should" take and I know what my dipstick sais. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 Too much oil is how you get leaking seals. I wouldn't trust that dip stick too much then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 Are you sure the dipstick is original and/or accurate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 starting to get off the OP topic, but to finalize I have changed dipsticks on more than 1 occasion (once to a stick from a 90-92 that donated a bunch of stuff to me then again to ToolSheds-my parts truck for those who don't know) Safe to assume it ain't a dipstick issue Considering the day it is, I will assume no progress was made on your noise hunt today? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 26, 2011 Author Share Posted December 26, 2011 starting to get off the OP topic, but to finalize I have changed dipsticks on more than 1 occasion (once to a stick from a 90-92 that donated a bunch of stuff to me then again to ToolSheds-my parts truck for those who don't know) Safe to assume it ain't a dipstick issue Considering the day it is, I will assume no progress was made on your noise hunt today? I cleaned out my blower resistor area thingy. It was pretty much empty... I kept hearing leaves rustling, but this didn't seem to solve it. After I was done cleaning out the leaves, I tried to take my accessory belts off. I couldn't figure out how. I know that sounds stupid, but the tensioner bolt wasn't doing anything. The bolt was all the way down (rotated to the right), so I naturally thought that I should turn the bolt the other way to loosen it. I got the bolthead about a half inch up before I thought about what was happening. How would moving the bolt UP make the tensioner go down and release the belt...? The belt was still as tight as it was, so I thought I should put it back the way it was and go inside to research the proper way to do the simpliest thing ever. I got distracted by someone coming over who was curious about these Nissans. I eventually showed them how to clean a MAF and I thanked the laziness of the previous owner for not rounding the screws. I was driving the truck a little bit today. The tapping is always there. It gets QUIETER after it's warm, but it doesn't go away. Maybe one noise is going away, but another noise is not? When I'm at a red light or in low RPMs in general, I can hear the tapping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 There are 2 nuts you have to turn to loosen the belt tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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