Trogdor636 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 ROFL... Harbor Freight.... -_- that place is... yeah. and the closest one is half hour away. BUT, i KNOW we have one somewhere at this damn house! Laugh all you want, I had the 5 dollar one for a year and it worked for simple things like this. Then it fell off my shelf and I broke the display. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Since no one else has said it I gotta. Have you checked the codes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Since no one else has said it I gotta. Have you checked the codes? Yes, have checked the ECU, got code 55, which NO malfunctions... gonna go look for a multimeter in a few mins, and will report back if i find anything... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Again, which is the IAC?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 so, i checked the TPS, everything is normal, 5v... unplugged the MAF, it dies, unplug the TPS it disturbs the idle, but nothing else happens besides a CEL that goes off as soon as i reconnect it. but, if i unplug the IAC while its running, nothing happens? or if i plug it in after restarting, nothing happens? is that normal? and after messing with all of those connectors it doesnt sputtering gear anymore or when sitting. still has a slight stumble between 1k and 1800 rpms... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Anyone?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 maybe the vibrations of the engine are knocking something loose? Maybe that's why it juggles at idle. Some connection is slipping in and out? When you floored it, I'm sure that created some vibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 er... i floored it? heh, i dont remember. lol. but its back to the way it was before, all the connectors click tight. connections look clean. but shouldnt the TPS make the engine idle change a little bit when disconnected??? im really starting to get the urge to drive it off a cliff on accident... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) OH!! sorry. I completely forgot to look at the 2nd page. NVM my post. It sounds like you solved one problem and uncovered/caused another one! Has to be sensor related. Those damn sensors P.S.: if you do, indeed, drive it off a cliff (which I don't condone in any way, shape, or form, no no no) please give me your seats before you do! Edited January 25, 2012 by 1994SEV6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) yeah... theyre starting to piss me off, hence the running off the cliff comment... Eh! what seats do you have? leather or cloth? cuz i want cloth... badly.... Edited January 25, 2012 by Kyle94 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Yeah. I have cloth. In 95% mint condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 TRADE ME NAO!!!! Lmfao... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 The IAC is the tower with a plug on top to the right of the intake. You should see a screw with a (i think red) like glue/seal type thing. Thats what you use to adjust it, but i wouldnt, i'd just check the voltages compared to the FSM. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 i already checked the voltage of that too.. nothing odd. but pathy is down for the rest of the week anyway.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 so... we all just gave up? i'm out of options/things to check... TIME TO SELL IT! ROFL! (only certain people will get this, inside joke) i don't know what else to do!!! today it died in my friends driveway when i was backing out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 (edited) So, i guess ill add more? I've recently notice it only misses when: I let it sit over night, drive it approx 6miles to school at 7:30 AM, and then go to leave school 1:35 PM, and it does it's crap! why????? Edited February 2, 2012 by Kyle94 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 So, morning drive is fine... afternoon drive, it tries to die? How cold is it in Kelso? Mine went a little funny a while back, drove fine cold, but tried to stall once it warmed up... no stutter/miss, just surging (and plunging) idle. We never did figure out what was causing it, messing with the intake made it go away. From what I've heard, I half suspect the coolant temp sensor playing a part in this, maybe a loose wire we nudged back into place. I cleaned the MAF and TPS plugs afterwards, but both looked fine. I thought they just ran worse with the MAF unplugged? Yours dies completely... that would seem to indicate a problem. (Fat lot of help, I know.) This doesn't go with the latest, but, any chance it's electrical? Can't help to rule out fusible links/etc. It wouldn't explain the morning/afternoon thing though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 So, morning drive is fine... afternoon drive, it tries to die? How cold is it in Kelso? Mine went a little funny a while back, drove fine cold, but tried to stall once it warmed up... no stutter/miss, just surging (and plunging) idle. We never did figure out what was causing it, messing with the intake made it go away. From what I've heard, I half suspect the coolant temp sensor playing a part in this, maybe a loose wire we nudged back into place. I cleaned the MAF and TPS plugs afterwards, but both looked fine. I thought they just ran worse with the MAF unplugged? Yours dies completely... that would seem to indicate a problem. (Fat lot of help, I know.) This doesn't go with the latest, but, any chance it's electrical? Can't help to rule out fusible links/etc. It wouldn't explain the morning/afternoon thing though... its about 52 in the afternoon today. and was like 32ish over night last night... doesnt seem to affect it with outside temps... i bought it in the same kind of weather conditons... im very tempted to go buy a CTS... but thats a wasted 15$ if i dont need it... i did test it using a pot of water on a stove but i might not have gotten it very accurate? it dies when i unplugg the MAF, but starts right back up and just runs silly... ive messed with all the connectors, maf, cts, tps, tps, iac... etc. nothing really,. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 how do i tell if a fuse-able link is bad??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 No power on the other side of it, they usually melt too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Oh. Ill have too look at them after a while then... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Ok Kyle, let me get this straight. You start it up and its fine. You drive to school(approx 6 miles) and its fine the whole way. You shut it off and let it sit for 6 hours(appox). Then you get in and drive(how long?)then it begins to studder, right? It happens at low speed and RPM, not so much high rpm? I am leaning toward a cold soak issue. I think maybe you have carbon buildup on your valves and injectors and its soaking up unburned fuel. This will cause a issue with combustion. Here is what I would like you to dtry and do, two things actually. First, if you want to drive up here to Rochester next weekend, I will try and round up some chemicals to clean your injectors and intake. I will hook them up and clean both the fuel injectors and the entire intake system. IF you dont want to wait, go down to the local parts store. Buy a can of carb and choke cleaner(make sure its sensor safe). On the intake tube just after the air flow meter, there is a small hose that hooks up. Grab a small chunk of hoseand attach it here. Connect the other end to the straw on the spray can. Start your rig and let it warm up(you could do this first). With one hand you need to rev the engine a bit(not real high), and the other you need to spray the cleaner in. It should stumble a little bit, only stop if it tries to die. Keep reving and use the whole can. Once the can is gone, shut off the engine, hook up the vacuum line again. Start the engine and rev it up to 4-5000 rpm a few times. You should see some smoke come out from the tailpipe(but sure not to point it at open doors or windows). Then take it for a drive. Push the OD off button as you want the engine to rev a bit higher. You need to drive it kind of hard(be safe please). This should only take a few minutes for the smoke to stop. Once it does, drive normally for a few minutes. Now, due to your specific conditions as stated earlier, you may have to wait until you can reproduce those conditions. Let me know what you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 Ok Kyle, let me get this straight. You start it up and its fine. You drive to school(approx 6 miles) and its fine the whole way. You shut it off and let it sit for 6 hours(appox). Then you get in and drive(how long?)then it begins to studder, right? It happens at low speed and RPM, not so much high rpm? I am leaning toward a cold soak issue. I think maybe you have carbon buildup on your valves and injectors and its soaking up unburned fuel. This will cause a issue with combustion. Here is what I would like you to dtry and do, two things actually. First, if you want to drive up here to Rochester next weekend, I will try and round up some chemicals to clean your injectors and intake. I will hook them up and clean both the fuel injectors and the entire intake system. IF you dont want to wait, go down to the local parts store. Buy a can of carb and choke cleaner(make sure its sensor safe). On the intake tube just after the air flow meter, there is a small hose that hooks up. Grab a small chunk of hoseand attach it here. Connect the other end to the straw on the spray can. Start your rig and let it warm up(you could do this first). With one hand you need to rev the engine a bit(not real high), and the other you need to spray the cleaner in. It should stumble a little bit, only stop if it tries to die. Keep reving and use the whole can. Once the can is gone, shut off the engine, hook up the vacuum line again. Start the engine and rev it up to 4-5000 rpm a few times. You should see some smoke come out from the tailpipe(but sure not to point it at open doors or windows). Then take it for a drive. Push the OD off button as you want the engine to rev a bit higher. You need to drive it kind of hard(be safe please). This should only take a few minutes for the smoke to stop. Once it does, drive normally for a few minutes. Now, due to your specific conditions as stated earlier, you may have to wait until you can reproduce those conditions. Let me know what you do. yes, that is correct, i drive it to school and it sits for about 7ish hours. then i go to leave and it immediately start the stumble/stutter crap like right after starting it. and yes, its only while it is sitting still at a stop sign/light that it jumps/stutters/stumbles (whatever you want to call it) but if i have it sitting in park or neutral is the only time it kind of misses when i rev it up to approx 1600rpm. then it stops stumbling. doesn't matter the temp or weather (wet/snowy/rainy etc) only thing that matters is if i let it sit for a while during the day after driving it for a while, then come back a couple hours later, doesn't really have to be 7 hours as Ive figured out by parking it at home and then going to leave again like 2hrs later... i will see if i can come up there somehow next weekend... (depends on if i will have gas to come up that far.. ) or i might just go buy the stuff. yet i would rather have someone who knows what they are doing... haha. is it pretty much the same concept as seafoam? (ive done seafoam before...) Thanks Derreck! (?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Well, similar to seafoam, depends on how you installed it. One thing I forgot to ask, when was the last tune up done? Plugs, cap, rotor and stuff? That could be important. If your gutsy enough, you could pull a plug wire(at the spark plug) while its missing and see if any cylinder has no difference(its called a power balance test). You can isolate what cylinder is having the issue that way. If you do want to shoot up, just let me know with a couple of days notice so I know to bring the stuff home from work. I think you may want to try on your own to keep the cost down. Oh, and close, its Derek! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 Well, similar to seafoam, depends on how you installed it. One thing I forgot to ask, when was the last tune up done? Plugs, cap, rotor and stuff? That could be important. If your gutsy enough, you could pull a plug wire(at the spark plug) while its missing and see if any cylinder has no difference(its called a power balance test). You can isolate what cylinder is having the issue that way. If you do want to shoot up, just let me know with a couple of days notice so I know to bring the stuff home from work. I think you may want to try on your own to keep the cost down. Oh, and close, its Derek! uhm, about two months ago, the wires, plug, cap, and rotor were changed with all new stuff. but, i guess i should have mentioned earlier, that my auto shop teacher narrowed the issue down to the #2 plug when it was acting up before. so i just changed my spark plugs, and wires, cap and rotor. but that didnt help. so maybe the #2 injector is the cause? plugged up or something? how much would you charge me to do that? that would depend on if i do it myself.... plus there's gas... Darn, i knew it was Der-somethng! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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