silver97ex Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 Hey guys. I am planning on replacing my lifters (driver's side only at this time) in the next week or two. I got 6 new OEM lifters from the Nissan dealer. I saw one thread on here that mentioned using a certain oil for break in and running the engine at 2K rpm for 15 minutes or so to initiate proper wearing. Though after that post there was no confirmation that this is the proper way to do this. I was wondering if anyone can confirm or deny this. What is the proper way to install lifters and properly break them in. I don't want to do this more than once (OEM lifter's aren't cheap!!). I also saw on the "proper procedure" (Mitchell and AllData) that during installation cylinder 1 should be placed at TDC prior to tightening the rocker arm assembly, then cylinder 4 at TDC also. I can't think of the reasoning behind this. Any help would be much appreciated. Pictures would be great too. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 Just use an HDEO/diesel oil such as Rotella 10W-30, it has plenty of ZDDP (zinc) - about 1150 to 1200 ppm - which should work fine for break-in I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 You want to tighten the rocker assembly when there is no force on it from the springs. This means doing it when the camshaft in question is oriented to accomplish that. I forget which side is which, but one side as no tension at 1TDC and the other at 4TDC. Should be obvious when you do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver97ex Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 Any idea how long I want to hold it at that RPM? Any other thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 I'm guessing the OEM lifters would be good, but during this procedure would be a good time to check the measurements on the new lifters and the lifter guides. The specs and tolerances are in the FSM. Some people, me included, have had problems with new aftermarket lifters being oversize and jamming. You could also inspect your rocker shafts and rockers. Again, specs in the FSM. Before installing the lifters, make sure they are all "hard" which means when you push down on the top with a fair amount of force, they don't collapse. If they are spongy and easy to push down then the oil inside has leaked out. Some people say you should soak the lifters submerged in oil for a few days before installation, but I don't think this makes any difference personally. If the oil has leaked out it probably won't go back in just soaking (no way for the air to escape). Note that the lifters should be stored upright or submerged in oil at all times (again this is in the FSM), to prevent the oil from leaking out. You might want to rotate the engine around a few times by hand see how the lifters move around etc. after installation. Apply engine assembly lube to all contact surfaces during installation. The procedure for break in I've heard is to start the truck, immediately rev to 2000 rpm and sit there for a while, at least 5 mins, then increase to 3000 rpm and sit there for 5 mins, then rev up and down between 2k and 3k rpm or so. I'm not personally sure how much difference this makes, but it doesn't sound like a bad idea. It will ensure good oil flow to the lifters and 2000 rpm is not so high that cold and thick oil would be a problem. Shrug... those are my thoughts. I replaced my lifters and I almost regret it Some of the new ones tap on startup, and I think they should not when new. Perhaps they have some air in them, or are somehow slightly damaged such that oil easily leaks out when the engine is off. Kinda makes me want non-hydraulic lifters where I adjust the valve lash myself occasionally. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 Hey guys. I am planning on replacing my lifters (driver's side only at this time) in the next week or two. I got 6 new OEM lifters from the Nissan dealer. I saw one thread on here that mentioned using a certain oil for break in and running the engine at 2K rpm for 15 minutes or so to initiate proper wearing. Though after that post there was no confirmation that this is the proper way to do this. I was wondering if anyone can confirm or deny this. What is the proper way to install lifters and properly break them in. I don't want to do this more than once (OEM lifter's aren't cheap!!). I also saw on the "proper procedure" (Mitchell and AllData) that during installation cylinder 1 should be placed at TDC prior to tightening the rocker arm assembly, then cylinder 4 at TDC also. I can't think of the reasoning behind this. Any help would be much appreciated. Pictures would be great too. Doug The procedure you are referring to is the generally accepted way to properly break in the valve train on flat tappet engines. The mention of ZDDP enriched oils are to provide a means to provide proper breakin lubrication. Modern roller-tappet engines do not require oils with as much ZDDP, so modern formulations don't include much. ZDDP has adverse effects on catalytic converters, so it use is being scaled back. There are special breakin oils available(Redline/Joe Gibbs Racing/GM EOS/etc), but Rotella or Delvac (both formulated for diesel engines) motor oils are readily available and much less expensive, and have high ZDDP content. Don't skimp on the valvetrain assembly lube, it's what protects everything in those first crucial seconds before the oil reaches the valvetrain from the oil pan. You want cylinder 1 and 4 at TDC to minimize the amount of spring pressure on the cam and followers during assembly to minimize the chance of galling the cam during assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 I believe ZDDP amount is capped in today's oils due to potential poisoning of catalytic converters as you said - however, wouldn't this only be an issue if the engine was burning a significant amount of oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 Presumably the amount that it is an issue is proportional to the amount of oil it burns, but all engines burn oil, it's just a matter of how much. I do wonder if the policy is to account for the average car owner who never changes their oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) Just use fully synthetic oil. It's full of every kind of additive and the molecules are small and evenly sized. I am pretty sure synthetic oil will get inside those lifters faster than regular oil would. Before installing the lifters, make sure they are all "hard" which means when you push down on the top with a fair amount of force, they don't collapse. If they are spongy and easy to push down then the oil inside has leaked out. Some people say you should soak the lifters submerged in oil for a few days before installation, but I don't think this makes any difference personally. If the oil has leaked out it probably won't go back in just soaking (no way for the air to escape). Note that the lifters should be stored upright or submerged in oil at all times (again this is in the FSM), to prevent the oil from leaking out. You might want to rotate the engine around a few times by hand see how the lifters move around etc. after installation. Apply engine assembly lube to all contact surfaces during installation. The procedure for break in I've heard is to start the truck, immediately rev to 2000 rpm and sit there for a while, at least 5 mins, then increase to 3000 rpm and sit there for 5 mins, then rev up and down between 2k and 3k rpm or so. I'm not personally sure how much difference this makes, but it doesn't sound like a bad idea. It will ensure good oil flow to the lifters and 2000 rpm is not so high that cold and thick oil would be a problem. That is correct. The FSM calls for soaking the lifters in the UPRIGHT position submerged in oil. You need to rev up the engine so that the oil pressure increases for the lifters to break in. Edited October 7, 2011 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) If it were my truck I would get the proper oil for breaking in the lifters or use the rotella. I wouldn't just chance it. Edited October 7, 2011 by adamzan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) Proper oil for breaking in the lifters would be good. However, do not use "break in oil" with hydraulic lifters. It's way too abrasive for them. FYI: Newer engines do not even come with break in oil from the factory. Edited October 7, 2011 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) FYI: Newer engines do not even come with break in oil from the factory. Indeed - all the talk of "special break-in oil" is just from the molybdenum and other anti-wear additives from the assembly lube mixing in with the oil. Edited October 7, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 The idea behind having the engine at TDC is to reduce the amount of pressure on the rocker pivot shafts as you install them. You will be compressing some of the valve springs at least part way regardless as you tighten the bolts. The most important thing is that you evenly tighten all six bolts on each shaft slowly from the time that the first rocker arm comes under pressure. If you just start at one end and tighten them all the way you could bend or break a rocker shaft. I use a speed wrench and turn each bolt 2 turns then move to the next and repeat until they are all down snug and ready for final torque with a torque wrench. Be very careful that each rocker arm fits down into it's notch properly or you'll break something. As the rockers come down against the valve springs check that each rocker moves side-to-side about .010, it will be obvious if one is above it's notch rather than in it. As far as oil and break in, just pour some engine oil on the cam before you put the lifter plate on and call it good. Also put some oil on the tips of the lifters and the valve tips before the rocker arms go on. When you fire it the lifters will be noisy until they pump up. This causes zero damage to anything. Once they stop ticking drive it like you always do. There is no break in procedure on Nissan lifters and no special oil or assembly lube is required. The factory doesn't rev the motor to some RPM and hold it there to break the lifters in when new. In fact, they don't do any break in procedure at all. VGs generally live 250k+ miles so I kinda think they know what they are doing! I've disassembled more VGs than I can count and have never found a flat cam or even a scuffed lifter face. I've personally run a VG with a constant badly ticking lifter for 50k miles and when I finally replaced it all other components were in perfect condition. VG cams and lifters are so hard there is no appreciable wear on either, even after 400k miles. Only garbage motors with crap machine work and soft parts from the factory (like American V8s) require cam/lifter break in. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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