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Hub Diameter


Chaser999
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So my stock LE wheels apparently do not fit warn hubs. I wanted to put the hubs on my Pathy before installing a lift so I seem to have run into a little problem. I want to look into a a set of 17 inch rims for my pathy so I dont have to buy new tires as well since my tires only have about 1200 miles on them. Does anyone know how to tell if rims will fit the warn hubs? Preferably aftermarket rims. I would think that any "truck" style rim would fit the hubs but I'd rather be safe then sorry. How do i find measurements of certain rims that would tell me if the hubs would fit or not? Any info is greatly appreciated. Also the tires i bought are 245/65/17 and rims that I've been looking at are 17x8.5. Is there a conversion method that would tell me if the width's are the same or close to the same?

 

Sorry if these questions are "noob" questions but i figured smart guys and gals like yourselves could answer them rather quickly. Again i greatly appreciate any info you can provide. This is just one more step until i get my lift :)

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So i just converted the 245 mm to inches and it comes out to be 9.6457 inches. So what would be a safe rim width to run with the tires? I looked all over the interent to find the width of the stock le rims but I couldnt find it anywhere.

 

-Chase

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Depending on the tire you bought, if it's available at TireRack, you can check the manufacturer specs for the recommended wheel widths for each tire size.

 

For example, at this link for a Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo2 245/65R17 tire, the specs tab on the page shows the rim width range is 7 to 8.5".

 

If you do not wish to purchase new wheels, you can have a local machine shop bore out the wheel centers to fit the hubs.

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Depending on the tire you bought, if it's available at TireRack, you can check the manufacturer specs for the recommended wheel widths for each tire size.

 

For example, at this link for a Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo2 245/65R17 tire, the specs tab on the page shows the rim width range is 7 to 8.5".

 

If you do not wish to purchase new wheels, you can have a local machine shop bore out the wheel centers to fit the hubs.

 

I was considering this option, I just don't want to take away the rigidity of the wheels especially if I start taking it off road. This is an option that I might look into I just need to call and get a quote on how much that would be. Any ideas?

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So I just read in the member's ride section that installing the manual locking hubs on an LE with the 4wd selector on the dash (the knob) is ok but running with them unlocked is bad for the transfer case. Something along the lines of it not being lubricated and what not. Can someone elaborate on this or is there a post somewhere that elaborates on this? I Haven't quite gotten used to the search function yet.

 

-Chase

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So I just read in the member's ride section that installing the manual locking hubs on an LE with the 4wd selector on the dash (the knob) is ok but running with them unlocked is bad for the transfer case. Something along the lines of it not being lubricated and what not. Can someone elaborate on this or is there a post somewhere that elaborates on this? I Haven't quite gotten used to the search function yet.

 

-Chase

 

I think all they mean is that you should not shift the t-case into 4wd mode without locking the hubs. You could see people doing this (shifting to 4-lo) to essentially get a 2-lo option where they get low range gearing but don't bother to lock their hubs, which is apparently bad.

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What i was reading i thought was referring to the part that the transfer case is lubricated by a pump that is turned on by the wheels spinning but since you unlock the hub, the transfer case is no longer being lubricated.

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What i was reading i thought was referring to the part that the transfer case is lubricated by a pump that is turned on by the wheels spinning but since you unlock the hub, the transfer case is no longer being lubricated.

What you are saying is true, that is if you have the transfer case that is the knob (which is the All-mode 4x4 on just LE models) and not the lever. I dont know the type of transfer case the All-mode is, but the manual lever one is a TX10 i do believe. Other members have mentioned about the 4x4 light coming on on the dash, but ive never had this happen. if it is a concern just lock the hubs if going on long distance trips. ive had my hubs for a while now and drive with them unlocked most of the time, but WARN says that once a month you should lock them and drive around just to make sure everything mechanically is still working, and lubricated. But now that i say that, i know this week my 4x4 dash light will come on, :lol:

Edited by Phantom01Pathfinder
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Yea, i have the knob on the dash. My main reason for purchasing these is my six hour drive home at 70 mph on which i get 18 mpg......bad pathy :stickwack: but i just wanted to get a little extra mpg's for that reason. I guess if i just be knowledgable about the whole thing I'll be alright.

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If you decide to bore the wheel centre out a bit to fit the hub, do all 4 rims so you can still rotate tires. I highly doubt that the amount of material removed would affect structural integrity, in fact I thought someone here had done it already. If you get into moderate+ off roading you'd likely be picking up some steel rims anyway, no?

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You sir, are a genius. I didnt even think about what would happen when i rotated the tires. And eventually, yes steelies will come into play but that could be another year. I still owe a small amount on the truck and being my only income is in the summer......well i cant mod everything at one time. After my lift the next thing will be new wheels and then eventually bigger tires.

 

Good things come to those who wait (because there broke) :aok:

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