Rubber protection and restoration

[Precise1]

So I have been reading up and I have heard everything from WD-40, antifreeze and Vasoline to Transmission Stop Leak and silicone.

From what I can tell, Vasoline and any petroleum based (or containing) mixture is bad news.

WD-40 is a short term, beautifying agent. (Ive used it on black plastic trim with great results)

The jury is out on antifreeze and TSL so far.

Silicone seems to be the thing, but needs to be tested to see how far it goes.

 

Bear with me through some quotes I read.

Stephen, you're on the right track, although silicon grease is preferable, if not go the vaseline. Also try a light boiling (taking care to keep the seal well away from the bottom of the vessel) first.

I used to (and still occasionally do) work on pneumatic measurement and control systems in refineries, and that's the method we'd use to re-vamp old seals etc that could no longer be purchased.

ed

 

Gummi-Pflege 101

 

Cost: About 7 bucks.

Pros: Too numerous

Cons: Messy fingers

Time: As much or as little as you want...its all good

Where to Buy: Most BMW dealers will stock it, and any can order it (though they may not even know what it is)

 

Your bike's tires have several formidable enemies: water, formaldehyde, petroleum distillates, ultraviolet light, and ozone. Water washes away the natural oils in rubber that keep it elastic. Formaldehyde and petroleum distillates act as a solvent, eating rubber on contact. When ozone, an odorless gas which is part of the air we breathe, is combined with ultraviolet (UV) light, a reaction occurs that attacks the tire and its polymers (the agents that bind the rubber).

 

To protect against ozone and UV damage, a stabilizer molecule called a competitive absorber is blended with the tire polymer. Competitive absorbers work by capturing and absorbing UV radiation and converting it to heat which is dissipated harmlessly. All tire manufacturers use the same competitive absorber, called carbon black. This is why all tires are black.

 

These absorbers are sacrificial; they expend themselves in performing their function of converting UV light to heat. However, as carbon black loses its ability to perform, it turns gray. This is one reason why black tires discolor as they age.

 

To protect from further ozone damage, tire manufacturers add a wax compound to their formulas. Tires flex when they are in motion, causing the wax molecules to migrate to the surface. This forms as a protective barrier between the air (ozone and oxygen), water and the tire polymer. In the tire trade this is called blooming. When tires are parked for extended periods, blooming does not occur and ozone quickly attacks the tire polymer. With UV light and ozone working in concert, the degradation is accelerated, resulting in drying, discoloration and cracking.

 

To combat the negative effects of water, solvents and UV light on tires, the bike care industry has created tire dressings. These dressings condition the tire, restoring essential moisture. Tire dressings fall into two groups:

 

1. Liquid Silicone Oil Dressings – These penetrating-type silicones form a flexible protective shield on rubber. Liquid silicone seals small openings with a film to prevent penetration of moisture and dirt. Most silicone dressings leave a never-dry gloss film. There are many myths regarding silicone, specifically the negative long-term effects of silicone on rubber and vinyl. The fact is, silicone is an inert material. The benefit of silicone is its ability to easily penetrate the tire’s surface and not evaporate. Some silicone-based dressings contain petroleum distillates as a cleaning agent. Petroleum distillates are harmful to rubber and vinyl, and will cause rubber and vinyl to crack. If you decide to use a silicone oil tire dressing, make sure it does not contain a cleaner.

 

2. Water-Based Dressings – The water-based dressings do not contain silicone oils, petroleum distillates, waxes, or other dangerous solvents that can harm and dull the surface of rubber and vinyl over time. Most water-based dressings use a water-based silicone, which offers a non-greasy, satin finish. The best products contain UV blocking agents to help keep tires and rubber from cracking, fading and hardening.

 

So, I just happened to have a can of this sitting around so I slathered a few pieces with it to see if it actually restores or just protects.

 

Oddly enough, it is only the rear most window trim, bottom of the two door windows and the top of the windshield that is effected. The other rubber trim is in quite good shape, I wonder what the difference in material is and why...

 

Does anyone have any experience to share??

Thanks.

 

B

[Towncivilian]

Many people on Bob Is The Oil Guy recommend using 303 Aerospace Protectant. I've got a spray bottle of it, and have applied it to my weather stripping and some of my interior trim. It hasn't cured the stickiness of the stripping, but perhaps I didn't apply it properly or more likely, it just needs reapplication every few weeks. It's expensive stuff at $14 for a 16 oz. spray bottle, and it also stained my instrument cluster plastic and clock display with small spots (from overspray) that don't go away. I'm not exactly sold on it yet. I've read of using plain silicone spray as well. But my weather stripping, aside from sticking, has survived Florida sun and heat for nearly 11 years now... why bother with putting stuff on it?

Edited September 15, 2011 by Towncivilian

[Precise1]

I'll post a picture of mine...

 

B

[NextToAlaska]

Different because iam using it on my YZ250 Dirt bike tires, but ive always used Leather conditioner on them after a hard day at the desert. Bikes about 4 years old now and tires still look pretty mint condition(except for the treads >.>). Ive heard WD-40 works quite well if not used in an excessive amount.

[Trogdor636]

Many people on Bob Is The Oil Guy recommend using 303 Aerospace Protectant. I've got a spray bottle of it, and have applied it to my weather stripping and some of my interior trim. It hasn't cured the stickiness of the stripping, but perhaps I didn't apply it properly or more likely, it just needs reapplication every few weeks. It's expensive stuff at $14 for a 16 oz. spray bottle, and it also stained my instrument cluster plastic and clock display with small spots (from overspray) that don't go away. I'm not exactly sold on it yet. I've read of using plain silicone spray as well. But my weather stripping, aside from sticking, has survived Florida sun and heat for nearly 11 years now... why bother with putting stuff on it?

 

303 is actually made where I live. I used it a few times for my interior, but I had the same sorta issue. If you dont wipe the stuff up right away, it seems to stain. As for the outside window trim I could see it working. I'll have to check some places locally and see how much it is here.

[westslope]

....Oddly enough, it is only the rear most window trim, bottom of the two door windows and the top of the windshield that is effected. The other rubber trim is in quite good shape, I wonder what the difference in material is and why...

 

Does anyone have any experience to share??

Thanks.

 

B

Different levels and types of exposure to sunlight and heat would age rubber at different rates. So far so good here, but have contemplated switching out the rear window gaskets. Maybe restoration with 3M silicon paste would be cheaper and easier?

 

 

 

[piste]

Maybe I'm missing something..but I thought silicone spray was the "no question go-to" stuff for this sort of thing...??

[Precise1]

Is it?? That's what I'm trying to figure out...

 

After some inspection, the silicone paste does not seem as though it has significantly 'restored' the rubber although two factors may have influenced that. The spray may penetrate the rubber better and when I applied the paste, it was on the exposed side only. Perhaps if the rubber was soaked on all surfaces there would be more results, easier to do with a spray obviously.

 

B

[Towncivilian]

When I used silicone spray for my rear hatch weatherstripping, I stuck the red tube of the aerosol can into each small hole and sprayed a bit. There are quite a few of them though and doing this for every piece of weatherstripping would take a while.

[piste]

Is it?? That's what I'm trying to figure out...

 

After some inspection, the silicone paste does not seem as though it has significantly 'restored' the rubber although two factors may have influenced that. The spray may penetrate the rubber better and when I applied the paste, it was on the exposed side only. Perhaps if the rubber was soaked on all surfaces there would be more results, easier to do with a spray obviously.

 

B

 

That's my understanding...if it's rubber or some composite thereof and you want to preserve/maintain it...silicone spray is the stuff. As you noted spray form permeates and soaks things well.